3.5L EcoBoost Twin Turbo V6 Engine Assembly for 2021-2024 Ford & Lincoln

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right engine shows up:

• Check your VIN: Look at the 17-digit Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate on the driver's side dashboard or door jamb. Confirm that the 8th digit is G, T, or 8.
• Verify Drivetrain & Oil Pan: Check if your truck is 2WD or 4WD. Since this unit needs a new oil pan, you must purchase the correct oil pan matching your specific 2WD or 4WD drivetrain configuration.
• Confirm your EcoBoost variant: Verify that your truck has the standard 3.5L EcoBoost V6, and NOT the 3.5L PowerBoost Hybrid.
• Check your original oil pan: Verify that your original oil pan is undamaged and reusable so you can transfer it over if you do not purchase a new one.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• Heavy-duty engine hoist and load leveler
• Ford Camshaft Holding Tool Kit (303-1655) / CTA Tools 6680 / Ford 303-1248 Master Timing Kit
• Crankshaft Vibration Damper Remover/Installer (303-1521)
• Professional-grade, bi-directional scan tool (Ford FDRS or ForScan with OBDLink MX+ adapter)
• Steck STC50133 Engine Lift Out Plate
• Lisle 59350 Stretch Belt Tool

Budget for these consumables at install:

• 6 quarts of premium, OE-spec 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil and a new Motorcraft FL-500S oil filter
• Motorcraft Yellow Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant (meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B57-A1 / VC-13-G)
• A fresh set of pre-gapped Motorcraft spark plugs (gap to 0.030" - 0.032")
• New intake manifold gaskets
• New exhaust manifold gaskets and upgraded exhaust studs
• Turbocharger oil and coolant line O-rings/gaskets / Jiffy-tite fittings (one-time use)
• Front and rear crankshaft main seals
• New oil pan assembly (Ford OEM Part # ML3Z-6675-D), new oil pickup tube, new drain plug, and high-performance engine RTV silicone (Motorcraft TA-357)
• High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) lines (torque-to-yield, one-time use if transferred)

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Relearn and Misfire Monitor Profile Correction

The 2021+ Gen 3 F150 features a highly integrated, locked PCM. When swapping the engine, you must retain your original PCM. A dealer scan tool (Ford FDRS or equivalent J2534 pass-through) is required to perform a crank/cam position sensor relearn and clear any adaptive memory tables. If the PCM is replaced, a full PATS (security/immobilizer) re-marriage is required.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• The Oil Pan Installation: Because this unit does not come with an oil pan, you must install one before dropping the engine into the vehicle. Apply a precise bead of Motorcraft TA-357 RTV silicone. You must bolt the pan down within 5 minutes of applying the sealant and follow the exact spiral torque sequence starting from the center of the pan. Mechanics strongly recommend letting the RTV cure for a full 24 hours before adding oil.
• Torque-to-Yield (TTY) Bolts: The crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt, camshaft phaser bolts, and exhaust manifold studs are one-time-use torque-to-yield fasteners. You must replace them with brand-new OEM hardware.
• Turbocharger Oil Feed Screens: The small screen filters inside the turbocharger oil feed line fittings are prone to clogging with carbon or sludge. You should always replace these feed lines and screens during an engine swap.
• Front Differential Clearance (4WD Models): On four-wheel-drive trucks, the front differential sits directly beneath the engine oil pan. To swap the engine or install the new oil pan, you must unbolt and lower the front differential assembly, remove the front driveshaft, and drop the steering rack/sway bar to gain adequate clearance.
• Direct Injection Fuel Lines: If you are transferring the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) or fuel rails, the metal fuel lines are torque-to-yield and strictly one-time use. Reusing them poses a severe fire hazard.
• Oil System Priming: You must prime the oiling system before starting the engine to prevent dry-start damage to the turbos and main bearings. This is typically done by holding the accelerator pedal to the floor (clear flood mode) while cranking to build oil pressure without firing.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Reusing Old Turbocharger Oil Lines: Debris from the previous engine failure or baked-on carbon clogs the tiny internal screens, immediately starving the turbos of oil and blowing them up on the first test drive. Always buy new turbo oil lines and Jiffy-tite fittings.
• Reusing the Crankshaft Damper Bolt: Because it is a torque-to-yield bolt, it stretches when tightened. Reusing it means it cannot hold the proper clamping force, causing the balancer to wobble, ruin the crankshaft snout, or fly off entirely.
• Skipping the Crank Relearn: Buyers often install the engine, start it up, and panic when the check engine light starts flashing with random misfire codes, skipping the mandatory Crankshaft Position Sensor Relearn procedure in ForScan/FDRS.
• Not Swapping the Oil Pickup Tube: When replacing the oil pan on this unit, some buyers try to reuse a bent or damaged oil pickup tube, or fail to replace the pickup tube O-ring, causing the oil pump to suck in air.
• Assuming Gen 2 and Gen 3 are Interchangeable: You cannot put this 2021+ Gen 3 engine into a 2017–2020 truck. The turbos, EGR routing, cylinder heads, and PCM calibrations are completely different.
• Failing to Transfer the Flexplate/Spacer Correctly: If the engine-to-transmission spacer plate gets bent or misaligned during the swap, it will rub against the torque converter studs and cause a terrible scraping noise on startup.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every engine of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: