3.0L Turbo Diesel Engine Assembly for 2020-2024 Cadillac, Chevrolet, & GMC

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right engine shows up:

• Verify the 8th digit of your VIN is 'T'. If it is '8' or '2', you have the newer LZ0 engine and this will not fit.
• Check the under-hood emissions certification label for RPO code LM2.
• Look for the Service Parts Identification sticker (usually in the glove box) to confirm the 'LM2' code.
• Confirm whether your vehicle is 2WD or 4WD to prepare for potential oil pan and pickup tube transfers.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• EN-52442 Flywheel Holding Tool / Crankshaft Rotator
• EN-52462 Camshaft Alignment/Locking Tool Set
• Glow Plug Bore Reamer (Kent-Moore EN-52074)
• Fuel Filter Socket / KlickWrench
• Torque-angle meter

Budget for these consumables at install:

• Engine Oil (GM dexosD 0W-20 diesel-specific oil, 7.0 quarts capacity)
• Oil Filter (ACDelco PF66 or equivalent)
• Engine Coolant (GM-approved Dex-Cool 50/50 pre-diluted mix)
• Wet Oil Pump Belt & Bolt (GM Part #55493234)
• Rear Main Seal
• Exhaust and Intake Manifold Gaskets
• High-Pressure Fuel Lines (one-time-use, torque-to-yield)
• Fuel Filter (ACDelco TP1015)
• Torque-to-Yield (TTY) Fasteners (including flexplate and cylinder head bolts)

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: VIN-specific dealer programming, Crankshaft/Camshaft Position Relearn, Fuel Injector Calibration (IQA Coding), and Glow Plug Calibration

A GM GDS2 diagnostic scan tool or equivalent professional programming tool is required. You must program the unique 30-digit alphanumeric IQA calibration codes stamped on the head of each of the six fuel injectors into the ECM to prevent rough idle, poor fuel economy, or engine damage.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• Write down or photograph the 30-digit injector IQA codes before bolting the engine in, as they are extremely difficult to read once installed.
• Do not skip replacing the rear-mounted wet oil pump belt while the engine is out; doing it later requires removing the transmission and bills at over 10 hours of labor.
• Glow plug ceramic tips are highly fragile; handle with extreme care, use a bore reamer to clean carbon before installing, and torque strictly to 13 ft-lbs.
• Clean all engine block and frame ground contact points to bare metal to avoid phantom communication codes and no-start issues.
• The timing chains and oil pump belt are on the flywheel side of the engine, requiring transmission and flexplate removal to service.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Reusing high-pressure fuel lines, which are one-time-use and can cause micro-leaks and fire hazards if reused.
• Using incorrect engine oil (such as standard 15W-40 diesel or gasoline 0W-20) instead of dexosD 0W-20, which ruins the emissions system and degrades the wet oil pump belt.
• Mixing up LM2 (73G, 4.4V) and LZ0 (72G) glow plugs, which look identical but will burn out or damage the control module if interchanged.
• Skipping the fuel filter service, leading to fuel contamination that ruins the high-pressure fuel pump and injectors.
• Ignoring the wet oil pump belt replacement during the swap, setting up a very expensive repair down the road.
• Reusing torque-to-yield flexplate bolts, which can lead to the flexplate separating from the crankshaft.
• Skipping the mandatory Crankshaft Position (CKP) relearn, resulting in a frustrating 'long crank, no start' condition.
• Assuming the turbocharger is included despite the listing explicitly stating 'LESS TURBO'.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every engine of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: