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P0140 on 2007-2011 Toyota Camry: O2 Sensor No Activity Causes and Fixes

This code means the rear oxygen sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2) is not sending a signal. The most common fix is replacing the sensor itself. Expect to pay around $50-$100 for an aftermarket sensor (like Denso) and $150-$200 for an OEM part. It's a straightforward DIY job for many.

18 minutes to read 2007-2011 Toyota Camry
Most Likely Cause
Failed Bank 1, Sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
0.8 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$125 – $350
Parts Price
$50 – $200
Safe to drive — Driving with P0140 will not cause immediate engine damage. The affected sensor primarily monitors emissions, not critical real-time fuel adjustments, so drivability is typically unaffected. However, your vehicle will fail an emissions test and may have slightly reduced fuel economy until it's fixed.
Key Takeaways
  • P0140 on a 2007-2011 Camry means the rear oxygen sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2) has failed, most likely due to an internal heater circuit failure.
  • The car is safe to drive, but you will fail an emissions test and should get it fixed to restore proper emissions monitoring.
  • The most common cause by far is a bad sensor. Check the 'A/F HTR' fuse and wiring first, but expect to replace the sensor.
  • This is a DIY-friendly repair. You will need a special O2 sensor socket (22mm) and potentially some penetrating oil to loosen the old sensor.
  • Use a quality replacement part from a brand like Denso to ensure longevity and proper function. The OEM part number is 89465-06150 (2.4L) or 89465-06120 (3.5L).
P0140 stands for "O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1, Sensor 2)". The engine's computer (ECM) has detected that the secondary oxygen sensor, located after the catalytic converter, is not sending any voltage signal. Specifically, the ECM triggers this code when the sensor's voltage does not change between 410-490 mV for a specified period, often more than 74 seconds, during conditions when a response is expected. This sensor's job is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter by measuring oxygen in the exhaust stream. When the ECM sees a flat, unchanging signal from this sensor, it triggers the Check Engine Light.

What's Unique About the 2007-2011 Toyota Camry

On the 2007-2011 Toyota Camry, this code is a very common and straightforward issue. Both the 4-cylinder (2AZ-FE) and V6 (2GR-FE) engines are known for the reliability of their core components, so P0140 rarely points to a catastrophic failure. It's almost always an issue with the sensor itself or its wiring. The Bank 1, Sensor 2 location is on the underside of the car, after the primary catalytic converter, making it reasonably accessible for replacement. 🎬 Watch: Step-by-step downstream sensor replacement for 2.4L engines. Videos demonstrate the replacement process, which involves unplugging a connector and using a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket.

Symptoms You May Notice

  • Check Engine Light is on.
  • Vehicle fails an emissions test.
  • Slight decrease in fuel economy (though often not noticeable).
  • Rough idle or hesitation on acceleration, particularly when the engine is cold, may occur in some cases.
⚠️ Don't Waste Money on the Wrong Fix
  • Replacing the wrong oxygen sensor. This code is for Bank 1, Sensor 2. On the 4-cylinder, there is only one bank. On the V6, Bank 1 is the cylinder bank closer to the firewall. Sensor 2 is always the one *after* the catalytic converter.
  • Replacing the catalytic converter. P0140 indicates no activity from the sensor, not that the converter is inefficient (which would be a P0420 code). A dead sensor cannot report on the converter's status.

Most Likely Causes

  1. Failed Bank 1, Sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor 🔴 High Probability Oxygen sensors are wear-and-tear items that degrade over time due to extreme heat and exhaust contaminants. After 10+ years and over 100,000 miles, failure of the internal heating element or the sensing element itself is very common.
    How to confirm: Use an OBD-II scanner with live data to monitor the B1S2 voltage. If the voltage is stuck (often around 0.45V) and does not fluctuate, the sensor is likely dead. You can also test the sensor's internal heater circuit with a multimeter. Disconnect the sensor and measure resistance between the two same-colored wires (often black). A healthy heater circuit should have a low resistance, typically between 3 and 15 ohms when cold. An open circuit (infinite resistance) confirms a failed heater, which will prevent the sensor from becoming active.
    Typical fix: Replace the Bank 1, Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Applying anti-seize compound to the threads of the new sensor is recommended.
    Est. part cost: $50-$200
  2. Damaged Wiring or Connector 🟡 Medium Probability The sensor is located under the vehicle, where its wiring is exposed to road debris, moisture, and corrosion. The harness can be snagged, melted on the exhaust, or the connector pins can corrode, causing an open or short in the circuit.
    How to confirm: Visually inspect the entire wiring harness from the sensor to where it enters the main loom. Check for breaks, chafing, or melted sections. Unplug the connector and check for green or white crust from corrosion, bent pins, or moisture.
    Typical fix: Repair the damaged section of the wire or clean/replace the connector.
    Est. part cost: $5-$50
  3. Blown Fuse for O2 Sensor Heater ⚪ Low Probability
    How to confirm: The sensor needs to heat up to operate correctly, which is done by a heater circuit. This circuit is protected by a fuse. Check the vehicle's fuse boxes for a fuse labeled 'A/F HEATER', 'EFI MAIN', or similar. A blown fuse will cause the sensor to remain inactive and can trigger P0140 or a related heater circuit code like P0141.
    Typical fix: Replace the blown fuse and investigate the cause of the short circuit (often a wiring issue).
    Est. part cost: $1-$5

Rare But Worth Checking

  • Exhaust Leak: An exhaust leak upstream of the sensor can introduce extra oxygen, causing strange readings. While this usually triggers other codes, a leak very near the sensor could potentially cause an issue. You would likely hear a ticking or hissing sound from the exhaust.
  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM): This is extremely rare. The ECM's internal driver for the O2 sensor circuit could fail. This should only be considered after all other possibilities (sensor, wiring, fuses) have been exhaustively ruled out. If a new sensor and verified good wiring do not fix the code, the ECM may be the culprit.

Diagnosis Steps

  1. Connect an OBD-II scanner and confirm P0140 is present. Check for any other codes, especially heater circuit codes like P0141.
  2. Use the scanner's live data feature to observe the voltage for 'O2S B1S2'. A healthy post-catalyst sensor will show a relatively steady voltage (usually above 0.5V) on a warm engine. If the voltage is flat, stuck near 0.45V, or at 0V, it confirms no activity.
  3. Perform a visual inspection. Safely raise the vehicle. Locate the Bank 1, Sensor 2 oxygen sensor and its wiring harness, which is screwed into the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. Look for any physical damage, melting, corrosion, or loose connections.
  4. Check the fuse for the O2 sensor heater circuit in the engine bay fuse box. It may be labeled 'A/F HTR' or similar.
  5. Test the sensor's heater circuit. Disconnect the sensor's electrical connector. Identify the two wires for the heater (typically the same color). Use a multimeter set to Ohms to measure the resistance between these two pins on the sensor side. A reading between 3-15 Ohms is typical for a good sensor; infinite resistance (OL) indicates a broken heater.
  6. If the wiring and fuse are good, but the sensor's heater circuit is open, the sensor itself is faulty and must be replaced.
  7. For replacement, it may be necessary to spray the old sensor's threads with penetrating oil. Use a 22mm wrench or a specialized O2 sensor socket, which has a slot 🎬 Watch: How to replace the downstream sensor on your Camry. for the wire to pass through.
  8. If the sensor and wiring are confirmed to be good, the problem may lie with the ECM, but this is highly unlikely and should be the last resort.

Parts You'll Likely Need

  • Oxygen Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2) (OEM #89465-06150 (for 2AZ-FE 2.4L), 89465-06120 (for 2GR-FE 3.5L - check VIN)) — This is the component that has failed and is no longer sending a signal to the engine computer. It is a standard wear item.
    Trusted brands: Denso (OEM supplier), NGK/NTK, Bosch, Walker
    OEM price range: $150-$200
    Aftermarket price range: $50-$100

Related Codes That Often Appear With This One

  • P0141 (O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1, Sensor 2): This code is very commonly seen with P0140, as a failure of the sensor's internal heater will prevent it from reaching operating temperature and thus showing activity.

Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) & Recalls

  • EG045-07 (Not P0140 Specific but Relevant): While not directly for P0140, Toyota issued TSB EG045-07 for some 2007-2008 models with the 2GR-FE V6 engine concerning MIL ON with O2 sensor heater circuit codes (P0037, P0038, P0057, P0058, P0141, P0161). This indicates that Toyota has acknowledged potential issues within the O2 sensor heater systems on this engine family, which is the most common root cause of a P0140 'no activity' code. The fix often involves sensor replacement.

Platform-Specific Known Issues

  • Real-World Repair Story: A user on DSMtuners.com with a P0140 code described an intermittent Check Engine Light. The code would appear, disappear after a drive cycle or refueling, and then return. This intermittent behavior often points towards a wiring issue (a loose connection or a wire that is starting to break) or a sensor that is at the very end of its life, rather than a hard internal failure. The user also noted that two codes were stored (one pending, one active), which is common as the ECM confirms the fault over multiple drive cycles.

Mechanic-Grade Diagnostic Values

  • Downstream O2 Sensor (B1S2) Voltage — expected: A healthy downstream sensor on a warm, running engine should show a relatively stable voltage, typically fluctuating slowly between 0.5V and 0.8V.. Failure: A voltage that is stuck flat (e.g., at 0.45V) or at 0V for an extended period (over 74 seconds) indicates no activity and will trigger P0140.
  • O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Resistance — expected: Between 11 and 16 Ω at 68°F (20°C) for the 2GR-FE engine. For the 2AZ-FE, a typical range is 5.0 to 6.4 Ω at 68°F (20°C).. Failure: An ohmmeter reading of OL (Open Loop/infinite resistance) or 0 ohms (short circuit) across the two heater pins (usually same-colored wires) on the sensor connector indicates a failed heater element.

Scan Tool Commands That Help

  • Toyota Techstream: Active Test: Control the Injection Volume for A/F Sensor — While this directly tests the upstream Air/Fuel sensor, it is crucial for diagnosing the downstream O2 sensor. By commanding the fuel mixture rich (+12.5% or +25%) or lean (-12.5%), a technician can observe if the downstream B1S2 sensor responds accordingly. If the upstream sensor reacts but the downstream sensor's voltage remains flat, it strongly confirms the downstream sensor or its circuit is dead and not just experiencing a lazy response.

Wiring & Ground Locations

  • ECM Connector E12 (for 2GR-FE V6) — The Engine Control Module (ECM) is located behind the right side of the dashboard. Connector E12 is one of the main plugs into the ECM.. Pin E12-24 (Wire Color: P - Pink) is the signal wire (OX1B) for the Bank 1, Sensor 2 O2 sensor. Pin E12-25 (Wire Color: W-B - White with Black stripe) is the sensor ground (E2). A technician can back-probe these pins to check for voltage directly at the ECM, bypassing all vehicle wiring to determine if the fault is in the harness or the ECM itself.
  • Ground Point EO1 and EO2 (2.4L 2AZ-FE) — These are primary engine ground points located on the engine block/cylinder head, typically near the intake manifold or transmission housing.. The O2 sensor circuit relies on a clean ground connection to provide an accurate signal. While the sensor has a dedicated ground wire back to the ECM, a poor engine ground can introduce electrical noise and voltage offsets that may affect sensor readings, although it's more likely to cause other codes first. Verifying these main grounds are clean and tight is a best practice during electrical diagnosis.
  • O2 Sensor Connector (2GR-FE V6) — The connectors for both downstream (Sensor 2) O2 sensors are mounted together on a bracket on the subframe, visible from underneath the front of the car.. These connectors are notoriously difficult to release. The release tab must be fully depressed, which can be hard due to limited access and road grime. Technicians often use long-reach pliers or a modified tool to depress the tab. Knowing there is no secondary lock on the back of the connector saves diagnostic time.

Real Owner Repair Stories

  • Toyota Nation Forum user (2007 Toyota Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE)) — Check Engine Light with code P0140.
    ❌ Tried (didn't work) Replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor with a new Denso part.
    ✅ What actually fixed it The wiring harness for the O2 sensor had been rubbing against a heat shield, causing an intermittent short. The user found a section of wire where the insulation was worn through. After repairing the damaged wire with heat shrink tubing and securing the harness away from the shield, the P0140 code was cleared and did not return.

OEM Part Supersession History

  • 89465-3344089465-06150 — Standard part update/revision by Toyota.
    Heads up: The new part number (89465-06150) is the correct and current replacement for the original. Using old stock of 89465-33440 is acceptable, but 89465-06150 should be preferred.

Model Year Variations Within This Range

  • 2007-2009 (PZEV models): On 2.4L 2AZ-FE engines with California Partial Zero-Emission Vehicle (PZEV) specifications, the physical location of Bank 1 Sensor 2 is different. Instead of being under the car, it is located in the engine bay on the exhaust manifold, which is a much more accessible location than on federal emissions models. This can cause confusion, as it's in the typical location for a Sensor 1 on other vehicles. Always verify by following the exhaust path from the cylinder head; the first sensor is S1, the second is S2.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Start by checking if P0140 is accompanied by heater circuit codes (like P0141), as Toyota TSB EG045-07 highlights known heater circuit vulnerabilities on the 2GR-FE V6 engine.
Toyota TSB EG045-07 notes 2007-2008 2GR-FE V6 models are prone to heater circuit issues. Check the 'A/F HTR' or 'EFI MAIN' fuse in the engine bay. Is it blown?
→ Replace the fuse and inspect the O2 sensor wiring for a short to ground (often melted on the exhaust pipe) before starting the engine.
Disconnect the Bank 1 Sensor 2 (B1S2) connector under the vehicle. Measure resistance between the two same-colored heater wires (usually black). What is the reading?
→ The internal heater is dead. Replace the B1S2 oxygen sensor (Denso 234-4261 is a common replacement for the 3.5L V6). Use penetrating oil and a 22mm O2 socket.
→ The sensor heater is intact. Inspect the wiring harness from the sensor to the main loom for breaks, corrosion, or bent pins.
Use the scanner's live data to monitor 'O2S B1S2' voltage on a warm engine. What does the voltage do?
Safely raise the vehicle and inspect the B1S2 sensor (screwed into the exhaust after the catalytic converter). Is the wiring snagged, melted, or corroded?
→ Repair the damaged section of the wiring harness or clean the connector pins. Clear codes and retest.
→ The sensing element has failed due to age/heat (very common over 100k miles). Replace the B1S2 oxygen sensor. Apply anti-seize to the new threads.
→ This is an intermittent fault. As noted in real-world repair stories, an intermittent CEL that clears after a drive cycle often points to a loose connection or a sensor at the very end of its life. Check the connector for moisture or green crust.

Real Owner Stories

Aggregated from forums and TSBs cited above. Mileages and costs reflect what owners reported in those sources.

Toyota Camry

Symptoms: Intermittent Check Engine Light that would appear, disappear after a drive cycle or refueling, and then return. Two codes were stored (one pending, one active).

What fixed it: Diagnosed as a wiring/ground problem or a sensor at the very end of its life, rather than a hard internal failure.

Source hint: DSMtuners.com: 'Recurring P0140 Code'

Toyota Camry

Symptoms: Received code P0140 and subsequently a P0420 (catalyst inefficiency) code after replacing the downstream O2 sensor for a previous P0139 code.

What fixed it: Replaced downstream O2 sensor (serves as a cautionary tale demonstrating the interplay between sensor codes and catalyst codes).

Source hint: Reddit r/autorepair: 'Got code P0140 after replacing downstream O2 sensor?'

Toyota Camry

Symptoms: Needed help locating Bank 1 Sensor 2 and figuring out how to remove it.

What fixed it: Replaced the sensor by applying penetrating oil to the old sensor's threads and using an anti-seize compound on the new one.

Source hint: Reddit r/AskMechanics: 'TOYOTA CAMRY BANK 1 Sensor 2??'

Frequently Asked Questions

Does TSB EG045-07 apply to my 2007-2011 Camry for code P0140?
TSB EG045-07 applies specifically to 2007-2008 models equipped with the 2GR-FE V6 engine. While it directly addresses O2 sensor heater circuit codes (like P0037, P0038, P0057, P0058, P0141, P0161), it highlights known issues within the O2 sensor heater systems on this engine family, which is the most common root cause of a P0140 'no activity' code.
Where is Bank 1 Sensor 2 located on my Camry?
Bank 1, Sensor 2 is the downstream oxygen sensor. It is located under the vehicle, screwed into the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter.
What aftermarket sensor is recommended for the 3.5L V6 engine?
The Denso 234-4261 aftermarket sensor is listed as compatible with the 3.5L V6 model, a part that is also shared with platform mates like the Toyota RAV4.
My P0140 code is intermittent and goes away after refueling. Is the sensor completely dead?
Not necessarily. Intermittent behavior, where the code appears and disappears after a drive cycle or refueling, often points towards a wiring issue (like a loose connection or breaking wire) or a sensor at the very end of its life, rather than a hard internal failure.
Which fuse should I check for the O2 sensor heater on my Camry?
Check the engine bay fuse box for a fuse labeled 'A/F HEATER', 'A/F HTR', or 'EFI MAIN'. A blown fuse here will prevent the sensor from heating up and can trigger P0140 or related heater circuit codes.
What tools do I need to replace the downstream O2 sensor on my Camry?
You will need penetrating oil to loosen the old sensor's threads, a 22mm wrench or a specialized O2 sensor socket (which has a slot for the wire to pass through), and anti-seize compound for the new sensor's threads.
How to Replace Downstream O2 Oxygen Sensor 2007-2011 Toyota Camry (2.4L L4)
How to Replace Downstream O2 Oxygen Sensor 2007-2011 Toyota Camry (2.4L L4)
Toyota Camry Oxygen Sensor Removal & Install (2007-2011)
Toyota Camry Oxygen Sensor Removal & Install (2007-2011)
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07-11 Toyota Camry 2.5L downstream O2 sensor replacement
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How to Replace Downstream O2 Sensor 06-11 Toyota Camry
Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Jul 21, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the OBD-II Code P0140 for:
  • Toyota Camry: 20072008200920102011
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