Drive Unit Transmission Assembly for 2018-2022 Mitsubishi Outlander - Rear

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right transmission shows up:

• Confirm the vehicle is a Plug-in Hybrid (PHEV) by checking for PHEV badging and a charging port door.
• Verify the 4th character of the VIN is 'J' to designate the PHEV powertrain.
• Confirm the vehicle has the 2.0L (4B11) or 2.4L (4B12) PHEV hybrid engine.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• High-Voltage Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) / Class 0 (1000V) insulated safety gloves
• High-Voltage Disconnect / Service Plug
• Fluid Transfer Pump
• OEM Scan Tool (MUT-III)
• Vehicle lift
• Transmission jack
• Standard mechanic's tools

Budget for these consumables at install:

• Mitsubishi Motors Genuine ATF SP III (or Dia Queen / Diamond ATF SP-III)
• Left and right rear axle shaft seals
• Mitsubishi Genuine Super Long Life Coolant
• Rear motor mount bushings (recommended)

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: Resolver offset calibration / PHEV ECU calibration / Encoding

The rear electric motor integrated into the transaxle has a resolver (rotor position sensor). When you swap the transaxle, you must perform a resolver calibration (offset learning) and encode/calibrate it with the vehicle's main PHEV ECU using a Mitsubishi MUT-III scan tool. Failure to do so will result in system error codes, limp mode, or a non-operational vehicle.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• De-energize the High-Voltage System: Pull the main drive battery service plug, wait at least 10 minutes, wear Class 0 insulated gloves, and test for zero voltage before disconnecting orange cables.
• Perform Resolver Calibration: Must use a Mitsubishi MUT-III scan tool post-install to prevent the motor from shuddering, running backwards, or triggering fault codes.
• Inspect and Replace the Rear Motor Mount Bushing: Do not reuse a worn rear motor mount bushing to prevent driveline stress and clunking.
• Remove the Fill Plug First: Always remove the 10mm hex fill plug before removing the 24mm drain plug.
• Bleed the Motor Coolant Loop: Properly bleed air out of the rear motor water-cooling jacket to prevent overheating and limp mode.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Ordering for a Non-Hybrid: Buying this part for a standard gasoline-only Outlander.
• Using the Wrong Fluid: Filling the unit with standard 75W-90/80W-90 GL-5 gear oil or CVT fluid instead of Mitsubishi Genuine ATF SP III.
• Misdiagnosing the 'Thud' Noise: Replacing the entire transaxle when the issue is just a worn-out rubber rear motor mount bushing.
• Accidental Draining by Lube Techs: Inexperienced techs mistaking the transaxle drain plug for an engine oil or transfer case drain plug.
• Failing to Bleed the Motor Coolant Loop: Leaving air pockets in the cooling loop, causing the motor to overheat.
• Underestimating Install Danger: Attempting this installation as a DIY project without certified high-voltage training and safety equipment.
• Ignoring the Need for Programming: Assuming the unit is plug-and-play without needing to be electronically married to the car's computer.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every transmission of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: