Automatic Transmission Assembly with Torque Converter for 2010-2015 Ford

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right transmission shows up:

• Verify the transmission ID tag on the driver's side of the case displays AC2P-DA or CC2P-DA.
• Check the Safety Compliance Certification Label on the driver's door pillar for transmission code 'Q' under the 'TR' column.
• Confirm the engine is a 5.4L Triton V8 (8th digit of VIN must be 'L' or 'V').
• Confirm the vehicle is Rear-Wheel Drive (2WD) with a single driveshaft.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• Heavy-duty transmission jack
• Ford transmission cooler line quick-disconnect tool
• Engine support fixture or jack stand with a wood block
• OBD2 scan tool with live-data capabilities
• Comprehensive socket set with long extensions
• Inch-pound torque wrench
• Quality snap ring pliers

Budget for these consumables at install:

• Motorcraft MERCON LV ATF (Do NOT use MERCON V or generic multi-vehicle ATF)
• Transmission Filter & Pan Gasket Kit (e.g., Motorcraft FT-105)
• Torque Converter / Front Pump Seal
• Aerosol Transmission Cooler Flush (e.g., Lubegard Kooler Kleen)

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: TCM Adaptive Relearn

No dealer VIN-programming or anti-theft remarriage is required. However, a PCM adaptive shift strategy relearn is highly recommended. This can be done using a professional-grade scan tool to clear adaptive tables, or by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and performing a standard drive cycle.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• Torque Converter Seating: Must gently rotate and push inward until it fully engages the pump gears (three distinct clicks/drops). If not fully seated, bolting the transmission to the engine will instantly crush the front pump gears.
• Dowel Pin Alignment: Ensure the two alignment dowel pins on the back of the engine block are clean, rust-free, and in place to prevent crooked seating and rapid front seal leaks.
• The 'Yellow Plug' Myth: A small yellow plastic plug with an O-ring rolling around in the bottom of the pan is a factory assembly plug and can be discarded.
• Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) Alignment: If swapping the old TRS, ensure it is perfectly aligned with the neutral alignment marks on the sensor body to prevent no-crank issues.
• Cooler Line Flush: Must perform a complete flush of the transmission cooler and lines to prevent old debris from destroying the replacement unit.
• Inspect the 2-3 Accumulator: It is strongly recommended to inspect the 2-3 accumulator piston and spring for breakage or wear while the pan is off.
• Check for the Old Filter Seal: Ensure the old filter's rubber O-ring seal is removed from the case to prevent a double-seal condition and fluid pressure drop.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Ordering for an Older Vehicle (2004-2008): The internal wiring harness and solenoids are different and will cause immediate electrical and shifting codes.
• Using the Wrong Fluid: Filling 2010+ units with MERCON V or generic ATF instead of MERCON LV, which causes harsh cold shifts and solenoid codes.
• Reusing the Old Torque Converter: Reusing a contaminated converter will pump trapped metal debris directly into the replacement transmission.
• Failing to Flush the Cooler Lines: Skipping the flush introduces debris from the original failed unit, causing immediate wear and voiding the warranty.
• Improper Torque Converter Installation: Failing to seat the converter properly and using the bellhousing bolts to draw the engine and transmission together, cracking the front pump.
• Misdiagnosing the Problem: Buying an entire transmission when a simple solenoid, valve body spring, or external sensor was the actual issue.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every transmission of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: