5.0L Naturally Aspirated Engine Complete Assembly for 2013-2017 Land Rover

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right engine shows up:

• Check the 17-digit VIN plate: the 7th or 8th digit must be E or T.
• Verify engine code 508PS or 508PN stamped on the left-hand side of the block.
• Confirm if the vehicle is supercharged or naturally aspirated.
• Check for a Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) on the cylinder head.
• Ensure the vehicle is 4WD/AWD.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• JLR Timing Tool Kit (OEM 303-1445, 303-1447, 303-1448, 303-1452)
• Fuel Injector Remover Tool (OEM 310-197 / FIT50)
• Crankshaft Pulley Puller/Installer (OEM 303-1437)
• Crankshaft Turning Tool (JLR-303-1433)
• Camshaft Alignment/Locking Tool Kit (JLR-303-1435)
• Fuel Pump Locking Tool (JLR-303-1438)
• JLR Diagnostic Tool (SDD/Pathfinder)

Budget for these consumables at install:

• Upgraded Aluminum Coolant Crossover Pipes
• New Water Pump & Thermostat
• Timing Chain Kit (chains, steel-reinforced guides, tensioners)
• Valve cover gaskets
• Intake manifold gaskets
• Exhaust manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Supercharger gasket set
• Fuel injector Teflon seals
• Front and rear main crankshaft seals
• Engine Oil (fully synthetic meeting JLR STJLR.51.5122 or Castrol SLX A1 5W-20)
• Oil Filter
• Coolant (JLR-approved orange/pink OAT meeting WSS-M97B44-D)
• Spark Plugs
• Drive Belts

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: Immobilizer re-marriage, Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Relearn, and Engine Adaptation reset

Sources differ: Arm 1 states no programming is required if original ECU/harness are reused, while Arm 2 states programming/immobilizer re-marriage is required. Cautious value 'model_dependent' selected. A JLR-approved diagnostic tool (SDD or Pathfinder) is required for module configuration and sensor calibration.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• The 'Body-Off' Method: Lifting the body off the frame is highly recommended to access tight clearances at the back of the engine bay.
• Fragile Plastic Lines: Vacuum and coolant bleed lines are extremely brittle and snap easily.
• Injector Seal Resizing: Teflon combustion chamber seals must be replaced and resized using a special tool to prevent compression leaks.
• Torque-to-Yield (TTY) Bolts: Crankshaft harmonic balancer, cylinder head, and flywheel bolts are TTY and must be replaced.
• Engine Timing: Turning the engine counter-clockwise can collapse tensioners and cause chains to jump. Use JLR locking tools.
• Fuel System Priming: High-pressure direct injection system must be bled and primed before starting.
• Oil Pressure Check: Verify oil pressure manually with a gauge on first start as there is no factory dash light/sensor.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Reusing the old plastic coolant crossover pipes instead of upgrading to aluminum.
• Skipping the timing chain and guide service on a used engine before installation.
• Using the wrong engine oil viscosity or specification, which damages the VVT and tensioners.
• Swapping identical electrical connectors near the thermostat/water pump area.
• Trying to time the engine without JLR-specific locking tools.
• Skipping the ECU/immobilizer re-marriage procedure.
• Following long factory oil change intervals post-install instead of a safer 5,000-7,000 mile interval.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every engine of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: