P0847 on 2006-2011 Honda Civic: 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch Failure Causes and Fixes

What's Unique About the 2006-2011 Honda Civic

The 8th generation Honda Civic, like many Hondas of its era, is well-known for issues with its automatic transmission pressure switches. These switches are a frequent failure point. The good news is that Honda designed the transmission with these switches located on the exterior of the case, making them exceptionally easy to access and replace without having to open up the transmission itself. While the part fails often, the fix is simple and cheap, a common experience for many Civic owners.

Symptoms You May Notice

• Flashing 'D' (Drive) indicator light on the dashboard.
🎬 Watch: See the flashing D light and diagnostic process
• Check Engine Light is illuminated.
• Transmission will not shift properly and may feel stuck in a single gear (usually 3rd).
• Harsh or erratic gear shifts before entering limp mode.
• Poor acceleration from a stop.

Most Likely Causes

1. Failed 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch 🔴 High Probability This specific switch is a very common failure item on this generation of Honda Civic and other Honda models from the same era.
   How to confirm: Using a scan tool, observe the live data for the 3rd clutch pressure switch. It will likely read 'ON' constantly, even when it should be off. Unplug the sensor's single-wire electrical connector; if the scan tool status immediately changes to 'OFF', the switch is faulty and internally shorted to ground. This confirms the wiring and PCM are good.
   Typical fix: Replace the 3rd clutch pressure switch and the associated crush washer using a 22mm or 7/8" wr 🎬 See this walkthrough for locating and replacing the sensorsench. It is highly recommended to use a genuine OEM Honda part to avoid premature failure of the new part.
   Est. part cost: $40-$75
2. Wiring or Connector Issue ⚪ Low Probability The switch is located low on the transmission, making its wiring susceptible to road debris, corrosion, or damage.
   How to confirm: Visually inspect the single wire (often black with a red tracer) and the connector leading to the 3rd clutch pressure switch. Look for any signs of fraying, breaks, or corrosion on the connector pin.
   Typical fix: Repair the damaged section of wire or clean/replace the connector terminal.
   Est. part cost: $5-$20
3. Low or Dirty Transmission Fluid ⚪ Low Probability
   How to confirm: Check the transmission fluid level using the dipstick (engine off, on level ground). The fluid should be at the correct level and reddish/pink in color, not dark brown or black. While this is an unlikely cause for a purely electrical code like P0847, it's a fundamental first check.
   Typical fix: Perform a transmission fluid drain and fill using genuine Honda ATF DW-1 fluid. Do not use a pressurized flush.
   Est. part cost: $30-$60

Rare But Worth Checking

• Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM): This is extremely rare. The PCM should only be considered as the cause after all other possibilities, including the switch and wiring, have been definitively ruled out.

Diagnosis Steps

1. Read the code with an OBD-II scanner to confirm P0847 is present. Note the flashing 'D' light, a classic Honda symptom for a transmission fault.
2. Check the transmission fluid level and condition. Ensure it is full and not burnt. This is a basic check, though unlikely to be the root cause.
3. Locate the 3rd clutch pressure switch. It is on the front, lower part of the transmission, toward the driver's side, often accessible from under the car without removing many components. 🎬 Watch: How to access and swap the 3rd clutch switch It has a single-wire connector.
4. Inspect the wire and connector for any visible damage, corrosion, or looseness.
5. If you have a capable scanner, monitor the live data for the switch. It will likely show 'ON'. Disconnect the switch; the status should change to 'OFF'. If it does, the wiring and PCM are likely good, and the switch is bad.
6. If the switch is confirmed to be faulty, use a 22mm or 7/8" wrench to remove it and replace it with a new one and a new crush washer.
7. Clear the trouble codes and perform a test drive to ensure the 'D' light does not flash and the code does not return.

Parts You'll Likely Need

• 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (OEM #28600-RPC-004) — This is the component that fails in over 95% of cases for a P0847 code on this vehicle. The OEM part number 28600-RPC-004 supersedes older versions like 28600-RPC-003 and 28600-RPC-013.
  Trusted brands: Honda (Genuine OEM)
  OEM price range: $40-$75
  Aftermarket price range: $15-$40
• Pressure Switch Gasket / Crush Washer (OEM #90471-PW7-A00) — This single-use aluminum washer is required to create a proper seal for the new switch and prevent leaks. It should always be replaced with the switch.
  Trusted brands: Honda (Genuine OEM)
  OEM price range: $2-$5
  Aftermarket price range: $1-$3
• Honda ATF DW-1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (OEM #08200-9008) — While replacing the switch, only a small amount of fluid is lost. However, it is a good opportunity to perform a drain and fill. Always use genuine Honda fluid to ensure proper transmission performance and longevity.
  Trusted brands: Honda (Genuine OEM)
  OEM price range: $10-$15 per quart

Related Codes That Often Appear With This One

• P0848 — P0848 is for the same 3rd clutch pressure switch but indicates an 'open or stuck off' condition. Seeing either code points directly to a problem with this specific switch or its circuit.

Platform-Specific Known Issues

• Owner Experience: 2008 Civic LX at 75k Miles: An owner on the Honda-Tech forums with a 2008 Civic LX (75,000 miles) reported strange shifting behavior followed by a flashing 'D' light and an illuminated Check Engine Light. They pulled code P0847. Forum members quickly confirmed this was the common 3rd clutch pressure switch failure and provided the correct superseding part number to fix the issue, highlighting the community's familiarity with this specific problem.
• Manufacturer Service Guidance: A related manufacturer service news article titled "Hard or Delayed Shifting with A/T DTCs P0756 and P0847" was cited in NHTSA ODI #10836670, which described a vehicle shifting roughly on city streets while the light was on.

Mechanic-Grade Diagnostic Values

• 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch State (Live Data) — expected: Should read 'OFF' when the transmission is not in 3rd gear.. Failure: For code P0847, the scan tool will show the switch status as 'ON' at all times, even when it should be off.
• Continuity test on switch signal wire — expected: With the switch and PCM connector unplugged, there should be NO continuity between the signal wire (at the connector) and body ground.. Failure: If continuity exists, it indicates the wire is shorted to ground somewhere in the harness.

Scan Tool Commands That Help

• Honda HDS (or equivalent): A/T Data List > 3rd Pressure Switch — This is the primary diagnostic step to view the live ON/OFF status of the pressure switch. It is used to instantly confirm if the switch is electrically stuck 'ON' by observing the status while the connector is unplugged.

Wiring & Ground Locations

• 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch Wire — Runs from the switch on the lower front of the transmission case to the PCM.. This single wire, typically Black with a Red tracer, carries the ground signal from the switch to the PCM. A short to ground along this wire will mimic a failed switch and cause a P0847 code.
• G101 — Main engine ground, located on the thermostat housing at the right rear of the engine (for non-Si models).. This is a critical power and logic ground for the ECU/PCM. A loose or corroded G101 ground can cause numerous, difficult-to-diagnose electrical problems, including erratic sensor readings that could potentially trigger fault codes like P0847. It should be checked if other electrical issues are present or if a new switch doesn't solve the problem.
• PCM Connector B — One of the main connectors at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).. This connector contains the pin for the 3rd clutch pressure switch signal. It would be disconnected to test the wiring harness for a short to ground between the PCM and the switch connector.

Real Owner Repair Stories

• YouTube channel 'The Offroading Mechanic' (2008 Honda Civic) — Check Engine Light on and flashing 'D' (Drive) light.
  ✅ What actually fixed it The diagnosis was definitively confirmed using a scan tool. Live data showed the 3rd clutch pressure switch as 'ON'. The mechanic unplugged the switch, and the live data immediately changed to 'OFF'. This instantly proved the wiring and PCM were good and the switch itself was internally shorted. Replacing the switch resolved the issue.
• Reddit user in r/MechanicAdvice (2013 Honda Civic LX (9th Gen, but same principle)) — Check Engine Light, flashing 'D' light, code P0848 (stuck OFF, the opposite of P0847).
  NHTSA ODI #11132314 describes a similar situation where a dealer found code P0847 indicating the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch was short or stuck on.
  ❌ Tried (didn't work) Replacing the 3rd clutch transmission pressure switch.
  ✅ What actually fixed it The problem was not resolved in the thread, but the user's experience is a critical data point: after replacing the most common failure part (the switch), the code immediately returned. This strongly points to the next diagnostic step: a wiring issue (an open circuit in the case of P0848, or a short for P0847).

OEM Part Supersession History

• 28600-RPC-003, 28600-RPC-013 → 28600-RPC-004 — Standard part revision and consolidation by the manufacturer.
  Heads up: No incompatibility is noted. 28600-RPC-004 is the correct and current replacement for all 2006-2011 Civics requiring this switch.

Model Year Variations Within This Range

• 2006-2011: The 8th generation Civic received a facelift for the 2009 model year, which included cosmetic changes to the bumpers and grille. However, the 1.8L R18A1 engine and 5-speed automatic transmission hardware, including the location and function of the 3rd clutch pressure switch, remained the same. The diagnostic and repair procedure for P0847 is identical for all model years in this range.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Other Known Issues on This Vehicle

Issues unrelated to this code that are worth knowing about as an owner of this generation:

• Cracked Engine Block (R18A1) 🔴 High — Common on 2006-early 2009 models. A casting defect can cause a hairline crack on the back of the engine block, leading to a slow coolant leak and potential overheating. The issue would likely have surfaced by now for an affected vehicle. (Ref: Honda Service Bulletin 10-048 extended the warranty to 10 years with unlimited mileage, but this has since expired.)
• Premature/Uneven Rear Tire Wear 🟠 Medium — Common on 2006-2007 models. The factory rear upper control arms were improperly designed, causing excessive negative camber that wears out the inside edge of the rear tires quickly. (Ref: Honda Service Bulletin 08-001 was issued to replace the faulty arms with a redesigned part (stamped with a 'C'). Many cars have had this performed, but it's a key inspection point for a prospective buyer.)
• Drooping or Split Sun Visors 🟡 Low — Extremely common across all 2006-2011 models. The plastic housing for the visor hinge splits or cracks, causing the visor to lose tension and droop, often becoming a safety hazard or annoyance. (Ref: No TSB or recall, but it's a widely known flaw. Aftermarket clips and DIY fixes are common solutions.)
• Clear Coat and Paint Failure 🟡 Low — Widespread across this generation, especially on darker colored vehicles. The clear coat begins to peel and fail, typically starting on the roof, hood, and trunk lid, leading to a chalky, oxidized appearance. (Ref: Honda issued a warranty extension for some colors, but it has long since expired.)

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide for This Vehicle

When a used part is the smart pick: For this specific repair, a used part is NEVER a smart choice. The pressure switch is a known high-failure component, and the cost of a new OEM part is low enough that the risk of a used part failing again quickly is not worth the minimal savings.

What to inspect on the donor part:

• Not applicable, do not purchase used.

OEM-only on this vehicle (don't cheap out):

• 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch

Brands owners have reported issues with on this vehicle:

• All non-OEM brands. Multiple sources and forum consensus strongly recommend using only Genuine Honda parts for this switch to ensure reliability and avoid premature failure.

Real Owner Stories

Aggregated from forums and TSBs cited above. Mileages and costs reflect what owners reported in those sources.

Related OBD-II Codes

• P0848 — This is the companion code for the same component, indicating '3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit High'. While P0847 indicates a short to ground, P0848 would indicate an open circuit or short to power, stemming from the same switch or its wiring.
• P0700 — This is a generic 'Transmission Control System Malfunction' code. It is often set in the Engine Control Module (ECM) to illuminate the Check Engine Light whenever a more specific transmission-related code, like P0847, is stored in the Transmission Control Module (TCM).
• P0842 — This code is for the '2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit Low'. It is related because it points to a failure of an identical type of component in the same transmission, just for a different clutch pack. These switches often fail in similar ways.
• P0872 — This code is for the '4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit Low'. Like P0842, it is related because it indicates a fault with the same type of pressure switch on a different circuit within the same transmission assembly, suggesting a common failure pattern for these parts.

Frequently Asked Questions