3.5L Engine Complete Assembly for 2018-2025 Honda Pilot, Ridgeline

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right engine shows up:

• Check your VIN: For a Honda Pilot, confirm that the 6th digit of your VIN is either 5 (FWD) or 6 (AWD). For a Honda Ridgeline, confirm that the 4th digit of your VIN is Y.
• Verify your Transmission Shifter: Confirm your vehicle has the electronic push-button gear selector on the center console (associated with the 9-speed automatic transmission).
• Verify the Engine Code: Locate the engine code stamped on the front of your original engine block. It must read J35Y6.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• Crankshaft Pulley Holder Tool (Honda OEM #07MAB-PY3010A / 50mm Hex)
• High-Pressure Fuel Line Disconnect Tool
• Direct Injector Teflon Seal Sizing Tool
• Diagnostic Scan Tool

Budget for these consumables at install:

• High-Pressure Fuel Joint Pipe (Honda OEM #16012-R9P-305)
• Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump, Tensioner, and Idler Pulleys
• Intake Manifold Gaskets
• Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
• Spark Plugs (NGK Laser Iridium DILZKR7B11G or NGK Ruthenium)
• Engine Oil & Filter (5.7 quarts of premium full-synthetic 0W-20)
• Coolant (Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 Blue, 50/50 premix)
• Front and Rear Crankshaft Seals
• Teflon Combustion Chamber Injector Seals (if transferring original injectors)

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Pattern Relearn and Idle Relearn

If you retain your vehicle's original PCM, you do not need security/immobilizer re-marriage. However, you must perform a CKP relearn and an Idle Relearn using a bi-directional scan tool (like Honda HDS, Autel, or Snap-on) so the computer can sync with the new engine's sensors. Failing to do this will cause immediate false misfire codes (P0300) and a flashing check engine light.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• FWD vs. AWD Oil Pan and Intermediate Shafts: If swapping between FWD and AWD, you must swap the oil pan, oil pickup tube, and intermediate shaft mounting brackets. The AWD oil pan has a specific casting relief to clear the transfer case (PTU).
• High-Pressure Fuel Pump Lobe Alignment: When mounting the high-pressure fuel pump back onto the cylinder head, make sure the camshaft lobe driving the pump is at its lowest point of lift to prevent bending the pump piston or stripping threads.
• Torque-to-Yield Crankshaft Bolt: The harmonic balancer bolt must be torqued to 47 lb-ft, and then rotated an additional 60 degrees. Reusing the old bolt is highly discouraged.
• Timing Belt Replacement on the Stand: The J35 is an interference engine. Replacing the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump while the engine is in the vehicle is a tight squeeze. Do it while the replacement engine is on the stand.
• Active Engine Mounts: The VCM system is brutal on engine mounts. Inspect your original mounts carefully; if they are leaking fluid or torn, replace them now.
• AWD Transfer Case (PTU): If your vehicle is AWD, you will need to carefully transfer your PTU (transfer case) and the intermediate shaft brackets to the new engine block.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Reusing the High-Pressure Fuel Joint Pipe: This is a one-time-use crush-seal component. Reusing it will cause a severe, high-pressure fuel leak and presents an immediate fire hazard.
• Skipping the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Relearn: Many buyers assume the unit is defective because it runs rough or throws random misfire codes, when they simply skipped the mandatory CKP sensor relearn procedure.
• Ordering for the Wrong Transmission Configuration: Ensure your vehicle matches the 9-speed ZF automatic transmission with the electronic push-button gear selector on the center console, not a traditional mechanical shift lever.
• Neglecting the Timing Belt: Failing to replace the timing belt and hydraulic tensioner during the swap is a major gamble. If the belt snaps later, it will bend the valves and ruin your replacement engine.
• Mishandling Direct Injectors: If you transfer your original high-pressure fuel injectors, you must replace the Teflon combustion seals using the proper sizing tool. Trying to force them in with standard rubber O-rings will cause massive compression leaks.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every engine of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: