2.0L DOHC MIVEC Engine Complete Assembly for 2013-2023 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport, RVR

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right engine shows up:

• Verify the 8th digit of the VIN is 'U'.
• Verify the engine code stamped on the front of the cylinder block reads '4B11'.
• Confirm the vehicle has an automatic transmission (CVT).
• Verify the engine size is 2.0L and not the 2.4L (4B12) via the emissions sticker under the hood.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• Engine hoist/crane
• Load leveler
• Torque wrench
• OBD2 diagnostic scanner / Mitsubishi MUT-III
• Metric socket sets

Budget for these consumables at install:

• 0W-20 or 5W-20 synthetic engine oil (approx. 4.2 quarts / 4.0 liters)
• Oil filter
• Mitsubishi Genuine DiaQueen Super Long Life Coolant (or equivalent blue/green ethylene glycol-based coolant)
• Iridium spark plugs (NGK or Denso OE spec)
• Intake manifold gasket
• Exhaust manifold gasket
• Thermostat and gasket
• Rear main seal
• Front crankshaft seal
• Drive belts (serpentine belt and tensioner)
• RTV Sealant (ThreeBond 1217G or equivalent)
• Mitsubishi Genuine CVTF-J4 fluid (for CVT top-off)

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: Security/immobilizer relearn, crankshaft position sensor relearn, and idle relearn.

Sources differ: Arm 1 states no programming is required if retaining the original ECU, but recommends a manual idle relearn. Arm 2 states programming is model-dependent/likely required, noting that a security/immobilizer relearn using a dealer-level scan tool (MUT-III) is often necessary to prevent a no-start condition.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• Be extremely careful not to bend or nick the fragile crankshaft position sensor sensing blade (reluctor wheel) on the flexplate when mating the engine and transmission.
• For AWD/AWC models, carefully align and slide the transfer case onto the transmission splines to avoid tearing the intermediate shaft oil seals.
• The crankshaft pulley bolt is a torque-to-yield (TTY) fastener and must be replaced and torqued to 210 N·m (155 ft-lb).
• Only top off the transmission with Mitsubishi Genuine CVTF-J4 fluid; generic fluids will cause belt slippage and destroy the CVT.
• Inspect the timing chain guides and tensioner for wear prior to installation.
• Carefully clean and prepare all sealing surfaces (oil pan, timing cover) to prevent oil leaks.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Failing to address the CVT-ECU software recall (22V-563 / 22V563000) on the recipient vehicle, which can cause immediate engine destruction from over-revving.
• Using generic CVT fluid or standard ATF instead of Mitsubishi Genuine CVTF-J4.
• Bending the crank sensor reluctor wheel by forcing the engine and transmission together during alignment.
• Skipping the manual idle relearn procedure, leading to rough idle or stalling.
• Reusing old gaskets, seals (especially the rear main seal), and fluids.
• Assuming the swap is a simple plug-and-play long block without transferring the original intake manifold, fuel system, and wiring harness.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every engine of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: