A Practical Guide to the 1955-1956 Studebaker E16 Starter Solenoid
Keep your classic Studebaker starting reliably by understanding, diagnosing, and replacing your starter solenoid.
- Before ordering, verify if your E16 has a 6-volt or 12-volt electrical system, as the parts are not interchangeable.
- Physically check if your solenoid is mounted directly on the starter or remotely on the fender wall to ensure you buy the correct style.
- The most common symptom of failure is a single loud 'click' from the engine bay with no engine crank.
- For 6-volt systems, consider upgrading to heavy-gauge battery cables to improve starting performance.
Is Your Studebaker E16's Starter Solenoid Failing?
A faulty starter solenoid is a common reason a classic truck won't start. Because the 1955-1956 E16 has a simple electrical system, the signs of a bad solenoid are usually straightforward. If you experience any of these symptoms, the solenoid is a likely culprit.
Top Symptoms of a Bad Starter Solenoid
- Single Loud Click: The most frequent symptom. You turn the key, hear one solid "CLICK" from the engine bay, but the engine doesn't crank. This usually means the solenoid is receiving power and trying to engage, but the internal contacts are worn and failing to send power to the starter motor.
- No Sound at All: You turn the key and get complete silence. This can indicate a completely failed solenoid that isn't even closing the initial relay. However, be sure to check your battery first, as a dead battery produces the same symptom.
- Intermittent Starting: Sometimes the truck starts perfectly, other times it just clicks or does nothing. This points to a solenoid that is worn and failing unpredictably. Heat can often make this problem worse.
- Starter Spins, Engine Doesn't Crank: In some cases, you might hear the starter motor whirring or spinning, but it doesn't turn the engine over. This can happen if a weak solenoid fails to properly engage the starter drive with the flywheel.
Important: 6-Volt vs. 12-Volt Systems
Studebaker models from this era could have 6-volt electrical systems. It is critical to confirm your truck's voltage before ordering a replacement part. A 6-volt solenoid is specifically designed for the lower voltage and higher amperage of that system. Using the wrong part will lead to failure. Also, check your grounding; a poor ground from the battery to the engine block is a common cause of slow cranking on 6-volt systems.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Solenoid
For a vehicle of this age, new aftermarket parts are the most common and practical choice. New Old Stock (NOS) OEM parts are exceedingly rare and often very expensive. The main aftermarket brand available for the E16 is Standard Ignition (also known as Standard Motor Products or SMP).
Brand Profile: Standard Ignition (SMP)
Standard Ignition is a well-established aftermarket manufacturer. Their marketing highlights the use of heavy-duty copper contacts and more pure copper windings, which are designed to create a stronger magnetic field, reduce voltage drop, and extend the part's life. For a classic truck, especially one with a 6-volt system, these features can help ensure enough power reaches the starter for a reliable start.
Pro Tip: Check Your Mounting Location
Before you buy, look under the hood. Is your current solenoid a small cylinder attached to the starter motor itself, or is it a separate, blocky-looking part mounted on the firewall or inner fender? There are different replacement parts for each style, so confirming your setup is essential to get the right fit.
Typical Replacement Costs
Replacing the starter solenoid on an E16 is a relatively inexpensive repair. The primary cost is the part itself, as labor is minimal for a DIYer or a straightforward job for a mechanic.
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) | $32.78 - $70.77 |
| New Old Stock (OEM) | Varies, often $100+ (if found) |
| Shop Labor | $100 - $200 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the starter solenoid hard to replace on a Studebaker E16?
No, it is generally considered an easy job for someone with basic mechanical skills. It involves disconnecting the battery, removing a few wires (be sure to label them), and unbolting the old solenoid. The most important step is to disconnect the negative battery cable before you begin to avoid any electrical shorts.
What's the difference between a 6-volt and 12-volt solenoid?
They are not interchangeable. A 6-volt system operates at a lower voltage but requires much higher amperage to do the same work. A 6-volt solenoid is built with heavier internal windings to handle this high current. Using a 12-volt solenoid on a 6-volt system will likely result in weak performance or immediate failure.
My solenoid just clicks. Does that mean it's broken?
A single, loud click is the classic sign of a failed solenoid. The click you hear is the internal switch trying to move, but the electrical contacts are too worn or corroded to pass the high current to the starter motor. It can also be caused by a very low battery, so always test the battery first.
Should I replace my battery cables at the same time?
It's a great idea, especially on a 6-volt system. Older cables can corrode internally, creating high resistance that prevents the starter from getting enough power. For 6-volt Studebakers, owners often report that upgrading to heavy-duty 00- or 000-gauge welding cable makes a significant improvement in starting performance.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 536127
Available for 6-volt and 12-volt systems. Can be starter-mounted or remote/fender-mounted.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.