Starter Solenoid Guide for the 1955-1956 Studebaker E15 Truck
Get your classic Studebaker starting reliably by understanding how to diagnose and replace a faulty starter solenoid.
- Verify your truck's voltage: 1955 models are likely 6-volt, while 1956 models are 12-volt. You must buy the correct part.
- A single loud 'click' without the engine cranking is the most common symptom of a bad solenoid.
- Always check your battery and clean the cable connections before replacing parts.
- Replacement is simple for a DIYer, as the solenoid is likely mounted in an easy-to-reach spot on the firewall.
Is Your Studebaker E15 Starter Solenoid Failing?
A bad starter solenoid is a common reason for a classic truck to refuse to start. Because these parts handle high electrical loads every time you start the engine, they wear out over time. Heat from the engine bay and corrosion from moisture can also cause them to fail. Before you blame the starter motor or battery, check for these classic solenoid failure symptoms.
Key Symptoms of a Bad Solenoid:
- Loud Single Click, No Crank: You turn the key and hear one loud "CLICK" from under the hood, but the engine doesn't turn over. This often means the solenoid is engaging but failing to send power to the starter motor.
- No Sound at All: If you turn the key and get complete silence, the solenoid may have failed completely and isn't even trying to engage.
- Intermittent Starting: The truck starts fine one day but won't start the next. This on-again, off-again behavior is a classic sign of a dying solenoid with worn internal contacts.
- Starter Keeps Running: In rare cases, the solenoid can get stuck in the "on" position, causing the starter motor to continue running even after the engine has started and you've released the key.
Important: 1955 vs. 1956 Electrical Systems
Be aware that 1955 Studebaker models typically used a 6-volt electrical system, while 1956 models switched to a 12-volt system. You must purchase a solenoid that matches your truck's specific voltage. Installing the wrong voltage part will cause it to fail immediately or not work at all.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Solenoid
For a vehicle of this age, finding new original equipment (OEM) parts is nearly impossible. The market consists of new aftermarket parts and occasionally New Old Stock (NOS) from specialty suppliers. A new aftermarket part is often the most practical and reliable choice.
Standard Ignition is a common and reputable brand for this component. Their solenoids are built to meet or exceed original specifications and often feature improvements like heavy-duty copper contacts and more robust windings to handle heat and extend service life. Given the limited options for this vintage application, a quality aftermarket part from a known manufacturer is a solid choice.
| Part Type | Our Inventory Price Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) | $32.78 - $70.77 | The most common and reliable option. Ensure you select the correct voltage (6V for 1955, 12V for 1956). |
Pro Tip: Check Your Cables First
Before replacing the solenoid, always check your battery first to ensure it's fully charged. Then, inspect the battery cables. Loose, dirty, or corroded battery terminals can mimic the symptoms of a bad solenoid and are a much simpler fix. Clean the battery posts and cable ends with a wire brush until they are shiny.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the starter solenoid myself?
Yes, this is a very DIY-friendly job for most owners. On the Studebaker E15, the solenoid is likely mounted remotely on the firewall or fender well, making it easily accessible. The process involves disconnecting the battery, labeling and removing a few wires, unbolting the old solenoid, and installing the new one. The entire job can typically be done in under an hour with basic hand tools.
How do I know it's the solenoid and not the starter motor?
A loud click without the engine cranking is the biggest clue pointing to the solenoid. If the starter motor itself were bad, you might hear a rapid clicking, a whirring/spinning noise, or nothing at all. A simple test is to carefully bypass the solenoid with a remote starter switch or screwdriver; if the starter motor spins, the motor is good and the solenoid is the likely culprit. Please use extreme caution and proper safety procedures if attempting this test.
Is an aftermarket solenoid a good choice for my classic Studebaker?
Yes. With new OEM parts being unavailable, a quality aftermarket part from a brand like Standard Ignition is an excellent choice. These parts are made with modern materials and manufacturing processes and are designed to be a direct replacement for the original.
What is the difference between a 6-volt and 12-volt solenoid?
The internal windings of the electromagnet are designed for a specific voltage. A 6-volt solenoid used on a 12-volt system will quickly burn out from the excess voltage. A 12-volt solenoid on a 6-volt system will likely be too weak to engage properly. It is critical to match the solenoid to your truck's electrical system.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 1539716 (12-Volt) 536127 (6-Volt) 536124 (6-Volt)
Voltage: 6V (1955) or 12V (1956). Mounting Style: Remote (Firewall/Fender Apron).
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.