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2013-2019 Nissan Sentra 1.8L MRA8DE Engine: Problems, Identification, and Used Replacement

The 1.8L MRA8DE is a reliable engine often misdiagnosed for CVT failures, but timing chain stretch and cracked cylinder heads can kill it. Learn how to identify your engine, what fails, and when swapping in a used OEM unit makes the most financial sense.

22 minutes to read 2013-2019 Nissan Sentra
Difficulty
5/5
Est. Time
15 hrs
DIY Doable?
🔧 Shop
Shop Labor
$1,200 - $3,600
Used OEM Price
$250 - $1,700
⚠️ Drivable, but... — Driving is possible with some symptoms like minor oil consumption or a check engine light, but symptoms like stalling or a rattling timing chain warrant immediate attention to prevent catastrophic failure.
Key Takeaways
  • Before replacing the engine for hesitation or stalling, have a technician thoroughly diagnose the CVT, as it is a very common failure point and its symptoms mimic engine problems.
  • To prevent cracking the aluminum cylinder head, spark plugs must be tightened to a strict 14 ft-lbs with a torque wrench on a completely cold engine.
  • Verify fitment by checking that the 4th digit of the VIN is 'A', and always transfer the original intake/exhaust manifolds, sensors, and wiring harness to the replacement engine to ensure emissions compatibility.
  • After installation, an Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL) procedure using a professional scan tool is mandatory to correct a high or surging idle.
The MRA8DE is a 1.8-liter, naturally aspirated, inline 4-cylinder gasoline engine that served as the standard powerplant for all non-turbo Nissan Sentra models from 2013 to 2019. It uses conventional port fuel injection and was designed exclusively for front-wheel-drive (FWD) applications. Its primary function is to convert the chemical energy in gasoline into mechanical energy to propel the vehicle.

Is This the Right Engine for Your Sentra?

A complete 1.8L MRA8DE engine assembly for a 2013-2019 Nissan Sentra on an engine stand.
The 1.8L MRA8DE (MRA8) engine was the standard power plant for all non-turbo Nissan Sentras from 2013 to 2019.
🎬 Watch: Top 5 common problems on this generation
The engine bay of a 2013-2019 Nissan Sentra showing the 1.8L MRA8DE engine layout.
Before replacing the engine, inspect the 1.8L MRA8DE for common issues like oil consumption or timing chain rattle, and rule out CVT transmission failure.

This engine, part of the Nissan MR family, is the 1.8-liter inline 4-cylinder MRA8DE (also identified by codes MRA8 or MR18DE). It was the standard engine for all non-turbo Nissan Sentra models from 2013 to 2019. It is a non-turbo, non-direct-injection engine used only in front-wheel-drive (FWD) applications.

Confirming Fitment: The VIN Check

The most important step before purchasing a replacement engine is to check your vehicle's VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). The VIN is a 17-digit code found on a plate at the bottom of the driver's side windshield and on a sticker in the driver's door jamb.

  • The 4th digit of your VIN must be 'A'. This confirms your Sentra was built with the 1.8L MRA8DE engine. [4]
  • Confirm your Transmission Type: Note whether your Sentra has a CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) or a 6-speed manual transmission to prepare for the flywheel or flexplate transfer.

Warning: This engine will NOT fit Sentra SR Turbo or NISMO models, which use a 1.6L turbocharged engine. It also does not fit the Nissan Versa, which uses a different engine family.

California (SULEV) vs. Federal Emissions

A critical detail for these engines is the emissions package. You can find your vehicle's emissions certification on a label under the hood. Many used engines come from California-certified vehicles (SULEV - Super Ultra Low Emission Vehicle).

  • You can install a California-spec engine into a Federal-spec car.
  • However, to avoid an immediate check engine light, your mechanic must transfer the original intake manifold, exhaust manifold, fuel injectors, and emissions sensors from your old engine to the replacement unit.

Is Your Sentra's Engine Failing?

Several symptoms can point to a failing engine, but it's important to rule out other causes first, especially issues with the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT), which are common in this generation of Sentra. [22]

  • Hesitation or Stalling: While this can be an engine issue, it is very often a symptom of a failing CVT. [1, 11] A judder, shake, or hesitation on acceleration is a classic sign of the CVT problems described in Nissan's technical service bulletins. [1, 13]
  • Rattling Noise on Startup: A brief but noticeable rattle when the engine is first started cold often indicates a stretched timing chain. This typically occurs on higher-mileage units (over 120,000 miles).
  • Excessive Oil Consumption: If you frequently need to add oil between changes or notice blueish smoke from the exhaust, the engine may have worn or stuck piston rings. A clogged PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve can also cause this.
  • Check Engine Light: Numerous codes can appear. A common one is P0101, which can be triggered by a faulty PCV valve. [31, 43] EVAP system codes like P0442, P0455, or P0456 are also frequent and often caused by a simple vent control valve O-ring failure.

Pro Tip: Before condemning the engine for hesitation or lack of power, have a qualified technician investigate the CVT. 🎬 Watch: Understanding CVT shudder and how to fix it Many engine replacements have been performed when the actual fault was the transmission. [1, 22]

Factory Service Bulletins (TSBs) & Service Campaigns

Side-by-side comparison of a clean new PCV valve versus a carbon-fouled, clogged PCV valve.
A clogged PCV valve (right) can lead to stalling and oil consumption; Nissan issued a campaign to replace the original orange valves with updated versions.
🎬 Watch: How to replace the PCV valve

Nissan has issued several bulletins and campaigns to address common issues with this engine and related systems. Knowing these can help in diagnosis.

Bulletin / Campaign Details
CVT Judder and Hesitation
(TSB NTB19-075 / NTB17-034)
  • Vehicles: 2013-2019 Sentra. [1, 11]
  • Symptom: A shake, shudder, vibration, or hesitation during acceleration, often misdiagnosed as an engine misfire. [1, 13]
  • Remedy: Diagnose JATCO CVT slippage, which may lead to valve body or full transmission replacement. [13]
Voluntary Service Campaign – PCV Valve & ECM Reprogram
  • Vehicles: 2013-2017 Sentra. [5]
  • Symptom: Low-speed stalling, especially in high-temperature, high-altitude conditions. [6]
  • Remedy: For 2013-2014 models, the original orange-colored PCV valve is replaced with an updated black version, and the Engine Control Module (ECM) is reprogrammed. [5] For 2015-2017 models, only an ECM reprogram is performed. [5]
Check Engine Light (MIL) with DTC P0101
(TSB NTB17-039)
  • Vehicles: 2013-2015 Sentra. [31]
  • Symptom: The check engine light is on with code P0101 stored, but no noticeable driving issues. [31, 35]
  • Remedy: For 2013-2014 models, inspect the PCV valve and replace it if it is the old orange style. [31] For all affected years, the procedure involves cleaning the electronic throttle chamber and reprogramming the ECM. [35]

Warning: The Spark Plug Torque Trap. The aluminum cylinder head on the MRA8DE is notoriously prone to cracking if spark plugs are over-tightened. Always use a precision torque wrench and a 14mm thin-wall 12-point spark plug socket to tighten to a strict 14 ft-lbs (19.6 Nm). Never perform this service on a warm or hot engine, as the aluminum is more susceptible to damage.

Engine Replacement Cost Comparison

The cost of replacing a Sentra engine varies based on the type of replacement unit and local labor rates. Labor typically takes between 10 and 20 hours. [25]

Part or Service Estimated Cost (USD)
Used OEM Engine $250 - $1,000 [4, 7, 16]
Remanufactured Engine $2,500 - $4,500 [14, 15]
New OEM Engine $4,000 - $7,500+ [3, 25]
Installation Labor $1,200 - $3,600 [25]

Diagnostic Flowchart

This flowchart helps determine if your Sentra's MRA8DE engine is failing or if the issue lies with the CVT, PCV system, or external sensors based on factory service bulletins and common failure patterns.
Has a technician investigated the JATCO CVT for slippage or checked TSB NTB19-075 / NTB17-034?
Is there a rattling noise specifically during a cold startup?
→ Inspect the timing chain for stretch and replace the timing chain tensioner and guides with steel-backed units.
Is the engine consuming excessive oil or emitting blueish exhaust smoke?
Is the PCV valve the original orange-colored unit or is it clogged?
→ Replace the orange PCV valve with the updated black OEM version and perform an ECM reprogram per the Voluntary Service Campaign.
→ Perform a cylinder leak-down test to confirm worn or stuck piston rings requiring engine replacement.
Is the Check Engine Light on with code P0101 (MAF Sensor Performance)?
→ Clean the electronic throttle chamber, inspect the PCV valve, and perform an ECM reprogram per TSB NTB17-039.
Are there EVAP system codes present (P0442, P0455, or P0456)?
→ Inspect and replace the vent control valve O-ring.
Is there a loud knocking/tapping noise or a 'bone dry' dipstick indicating internal mechanical failure?
Is the cost of internal repair (e.g., rod bearings) higher than a used OEM unit ($250-$1,000)?
→ Purchase a used MRA8DE engine (VIN 4th digit 'A') and transfer original emissions components if installing a SULEV unit into a Federal car.
→ Perform internal engine repairs using a precision torque wrench for spark plugs (14 ft-lbs) to avoid cracking the aluminum head.
→ Inspect the accessory drive belt for whistling or check for ignition coil/spark plug misfires.
→ Perform a CVT diagnostic for belt slippage or valve body failure before condemning the engine.
Is there a rattling noise specifically during a cold startup?
→ Inspect the timing chain for stretch and replace the timing chain tensioner and guides with steel-backed units.
Is the engine consuming excessive oil or emitting blueish exhaust smoke?
Is the PCV valve the original orange-colored unit or is it clogged?
→ Replace the orange PCV valve with the updated black OEM version and perform an ECM reprogram per the Voluntary Service Campaign.
→ Perform a cylinder leak-down test to confirm worn or stuck piston rings requiring engine replacement.
Is the Check Engine Light on with code P0101 (MAF Sensor Performance)?
→ Clean the electronic throttle chamber, inspect the PCV valve, and perform an ECM reprogram per TSB NTB17-039.
Are there EVAP system codes present (P0442, P0455, or P0456)?
→ Inspect and replace the vent control valve O-ring.
Is there a loud knocking/tapping noise or a 'bone dry' dipstick indicating internal mechanical failure?
Is the cost of internal repair (e.g., rod bearings) higher than a used OEM unit ($250-$1,000)?
→ Purchase a used MRA8DE engine (VIN 4th digit 'A') and transfer original emissions components if installing a SULEV unit into a Federal car.
→ Perform internal engine repairs using a precision torque wrench for spark plugs (14 ft-lbs) to avoid cracking the aluminum head.
→ Inspect the accessory drive belt for whistling or check for ignition coil/spark plug misfires.

What Fails at Every Mileage Band

Pro Tip: The mileage bands below describe the condition and expected wear of used replacement units you might purchase. The checklists provided are critical steps to perform while installing the purchased engine before it goes into the car, not routine maintenance for your current engine.

Under 60,000 Miles

While major engine failure is uncommon at this mileage, some issues can appear. A faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor can cause a check engine light (P0101, P0102), poor fuel economy, and rough idling. This can sometimes be caused by a dirty throttle body or a clogged PCV system. Ignition coil failures can cause misfires, and minor oil leaks from the valve cover and camshaft seals can start to appear. A rod bearing failure was reported on one vehicle at 64,445 miles, though this appears to be a rare occurrence. Many owner complaints of hesitation or power loss at this stage are actually related to the CVT transmission.

  • Do during install (required): Replace the PCV valve with a brand-new OEM black PCV valve. Install new spark plugs (NGK DILKAR6A-11 for California, PLZKAR6A-11 for Federal), torqued correctly to 14 ft-lbs on a cold engine. Use new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Change the engine oil with 0W-20 full synthetic oil (approx 4.2 - 4.5 liters) and a new filter.
  • Do during install (recommended): Clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. Replace the accessory drive belt (serpentine belt).
  • Cheap insurance while the engine is out: Replace the thermostat and water outlet gaskets.

60,000 - 100,000 Miles

Timing chain tensioner wear can begin in this range, leading to a rattling noise on cold startups. Ignition coil failures become more common. Valve clearance adjustments are recommended by the factory every 60,000 miles. While many engine issues are still misdiagnosed CVT problems, some owners report stalling and misfires due to failing cam or crankshaft sensors. The alternator belt may also cause a whistle noise requiring replacement.

  • Do during install (required): All items from the 'Under 60K' list.
  • Do during install (recommended): Replace camshaft and crankshaft position sensors with genuine OEM parts. Strongly consider replacing the timing chain tensioner and guides as a preventative measure, especially if any startup rattle was noted on the donor vehicle.
  • Cheap insurance while the engine is out: Replace all rubber hoses (coolant, vacuum). Install a new water pump and thermostat.

100,000 - 150,000 Miles

Timing chain stretch becomes a more significant concern, with replacement recommended by some sources between 80,000-100,000 miles, though the chain's general service life is estimated around 150,000 miles. Ignoring a rattling chain can lead to complete engine failure. Excessive oil consumption may begin due to worn piston rings or a clogged PCV system.

  • Do during install (required): All items from the previous mileage bands.
  • Do during install (recommended): Replace the entire timing chain kit (chain, tensioners, and guides).
  • Cheap insurance while the engine is out: Replace the water pump, thermostat, and all coolant hoses. Replace the alternator and starter motor if their age is unknown, as access is much easier with the engine out. Replace fuel injectors if the budget allows, or have them professionally cleaned and tested.

Over 150,000 Miles

This is the mileage where timing chain replacement becomes critical if not already done. There is an increased likelihood of significant oil consumption due to internal engine wear (piston rings). General wear and tear on all components is expected; failures are more likely to be from a lack of maintenance over time rather than a specific design flaw. The MRA8DE is generally considered reliable, with a life expectancy often cited as 200,000 to 250,000 miles with proper care.

  • Do during install (required): Assume all wear items need replacement. Mandatory replacement of the timing chain kit, water pump, thermostat, all sensors (cam, crank, MAF), ignition coils, and PCV valve.
  • Do during install (recommended): Replace all rubber hoses, the serpentine belt, and the belt tensioner.
  • Cheap insurance while the engine is out: It is highly advisable to replace the alternator and starter motor at this mileage. Inspect and consider replacing the radiator.

Real Owner Experiences

Source Mileage What Happened Cost
Reddit 64,445 Owner was told a rod bearing went bad. The repair shop could not fix it, and the dealer quoted $4,300 for a used engine replacement. $4,300 (estimate for replacement)
YouTube Comment/Forum Post 7,500 Owner noticed a light knocking/tapping/chatter noise between 2000-2400 RPM after the engine was fully warm. Other owners confirmed similar noises, suggesting it may be normal for this engine. $0
RepairPal Higher Mileage (general) Excessive timing chain noise (rattling or ticking) is reported. Upgraded chain tensioner guides with a steel backing are available to improve durability. Varies
Engine-Specs.net General Alternator belt may cause a whistle noise and require tightening or replacement. Varies
Reddit 115,000 An owner inquired about timing chain replacement, with a response indicating the chains are 'really excellent' and that regular oil and fluid changes are key. N/A
Reddit 165,000 An owner reported their MRA8DE engine was 'solid' and made it to 165k miles, while the CVT transmission failed three times in the same period. The only engine work done was replacing spark plugs, a MAF sensor, and an alternator. Varies
YouTube Almost 200,000 An owner decided to swap the engine due to 'clacking noises' rather than just replacing the timing chain kit. Cost of a used engine (~$1000) plus labor.
Reddit 50,000 Owner was quoted $16,500 by a Nissan dealership for a full engine replacement after the car would not start and a knock was heard. The dipstick was reportedly 'bone dry'. $16,500 quoted
Reddit Unknown Owner was quoted $9,000 for an engine replacement due to a non-working internal rod. $9,000 quoted
Reddit 212,000 Owner was quoted $1,750 for engine mount replacement as part of a larger series of repairs including a $6,200 transmission replacement. Declined repairs

Repair or Replace?

When facing severe engine issues, deciding whether to repair your current engine or replace it with a used unit comes down to economics. Current market averages show used MRA8DE units typically run $450 - $1,700, while remanufactured units range from $2,100 - $2,400. Brand new OEM engines from the dealer can cost anywhere from $8,000 to over $16,500. Installation labor generally adds $1,200 - $3,600 to the total bill.

When Repair Makes Sense

Repair Scenario Estimated Cost Recommendation
Excessive Oil Consumption / PCV System Failure $50 - $400 Always attempt this repair first. A clogged PCV valve is a common, inexpensive fix. If this doesn't solve consumption, the cause is likely internal (piston rings), which is not an economical repair.
Timing Chain Stretch/Noise $1,000 - $2,400 If the rest of the engine is healthy and the noise has just started, replacing the chain makes sense. The cost is significant but less than a full replacement. Labor is the main cost driver.
Blown Head Gasket $2,200 - $3,000 This is a borderline case. The repair cost approaches the cost of a lower-mileage used engine swap. For a higher-mileage engine, replacement is often the safer financial bet.

When Replacement is Smarter

Replacement is the smarter choice when you experience catastrophic internal failure like a bad connecting rod bearing, a cracked cylinder head from overheating (or over-torqued spark plugs), or severe oil consumption due to worn piston rings. In these cases, the cost and complexity of the repair will almost certainly exceed the cost of swapping in a quality used engine. A dealership quote for a new engine, which can exceed $16,000, is typically far more than the vehicle's total value, making a used or remanufactured engine from an independent shop the only viable option.

Questions to Ask Your Installer

  • Have you confirmed the failure is internal to the engine and not a misdiagnosed CVT or sensor issue?
  • What is the mileage and warranty on the used engine you are sourcing?
  • Will you be transferring my original intake/exhaust manifolds, sensors, and wiring harness to the donor engine to ensure emissions compatibility?
  • Does your quote include all necessary new consumables like gaskets, seals, 0W-20 synthetic oil, and Nissan Blue coolant?
  • Will you be installing a new OEM black-style PCV valve?
  • Are you equipped to perform the Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL) and other relearn procedures after installation?
  • How will you handle the torque converter bolts and ensure the crankshaft turns smoothly before the first start?
  • Do you use a torque wrench for the spark plugs and do you tighten them on a cold engine?

Key Considerations for Installation

A mechanic using an engine hoist to position a replacement engine into a vehicle's engine bay.
Professional installation is recommended to ensure components like the intake manifold and emissions sensors are properly transferred from the old unit.

A successful engine swap requires attention to detail, especially regarding parts transfer and post-installation procedures.

Installation Gotchas & Special Tools

Replacing the MRA8DE requires an engine hoist/crane with a load leveler. Beyond standard hand tools, you will absolutely need a 14mm thin-wall 12-point spark plug socket and a precision torque wrench. Be aware of these common pitfalls:

  • Flywheel / Torque Converter Bolt Access: Access the torque converter nuts through the starter motor mounting pocket. Ensure the crankshaft rotates smoothly by hand before starting the engine.
  • Electronic Throttle Body Care: Do not manually push or force the brass throttle plate open with your fingers to clean it, as this can damage the internal gearing.
  • Engine Mount Design: The primary passenger-side engine mount bolts directly to the timing chain cover, making the cover a structural part of the engine.
  • Accessory Removal: Removing the front bumper cover and radiator provides much better access for removing the engine from the top.
  • Alternator Bolt: The alternator has a bolt that is difficult to remove without sliding the alternator in a specific track designed into its mounting bracket.

Common Buyer Mistakes

  • Cracking the Cylinder Head: Occurs during spark plug installation by over-torquing or tightening on a hot engine.
  • Reusing the Donor Engine's Sensors and PCV Valve: This triggers immediate check engine lights due to emissions package differences between the donor and your vehicle.
  • Skipping the Idle Relearn Procedure: Leading to extremely high or surging idle.
  • Using Aftermarket Sensors: Instead of genuine OEM camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, which often fail prematurely.
  • Not Swapping Key Parts: Failing to transfer the original intake manifold, fuel injectors, and engine harness.
  • Failing to Clean Components: Like the throttle body and intake passages before installation.

Programming & Relearn Procedures

After the engine is installed, it will not run correctly until a few electronic relearn procedures are completed. Failure to do this will result in a high or surging idle.

  • Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL): This procedure teaches the ECM the correct airflow at idle. [20, 21]
  • Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning: Calibrates the throttle body. [21]
  • Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Relearn: Synchronizes the sensor with the ECM.

While some manual procedures exist, they are timing-critical and often difficult to perform. [36] The most reliable method is to use a professional bi-directional scan tool or a Nissan-specific CONSULT tool. [20, 41]

Freight & Delivery Reality

A used car engine secured with straps to a wooden pallet for freight shipping.
Used engines are typically shipped via LTL freight on pallets; ensure you have a way to receive a heavy delivery, such as a liftgate service.

When you order a used engine assembly, it does not arrive in a cardboard box via standard parcel delivery. An MRA8DE engine assembly weighs approximately 252 lbs and measures roughly 33" x 31" x 30" before crating. It will ship as LTL (Less Than Truckload) freight strapped to a wooden pallet.

Because of its size and weight, the delivery truck will require a liftgate to lower the pallet to the ground if you are having it delivered to a residential address or a shop without a loading dock. It is an industry best practice to conduct a pre-purchase verification interview with the seller to confirm your VIN, emissions type, and transmission. When the engine arrives, you must inspect the unit for any physical damage that occurred during transit before signing the driver's delivery receipt.

Long Block vs. Complete Assembly

When shopping for a used MRA8DE engine, you will usually see two options: a long block or a complete assembly.

  • Long Block: This includes the core engine block and the cylinder head (the top part of the engine that holds the valves). It does not include bolt-on accessories like the alternator, AC compressor, or manifolds.
  • Complete Assembly: This includes the core engine plus most of the bolt-on accessories, sensors, and sometimes the wiring harness.

For this specific Nissan Sentra engine, buying a long block is often the best choice. Because of the strict differences between California and Federal emissions systems, your mechanic will usually need to strip a complete assembly down to a long block anyway. They must reuse your original intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and fuel injectors so your car's computer works correctly and keeps the check engine light off.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How do I know for sure if this engine fits my Sentra?

Check the 4th character of your car's VIN, which is visible through the driver's side of the windshield. If that character is an 'A', this 1.8L engine is the correct type for your vehicle. [4]

Can I use an engine from a California car in my Federal car?

Yes, but it requires extra work. To prevent check engine lights, you must have your mechanic transfer the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and emissions sensors from your original engine onto the replacement engine.

Does the replacement engine need to be programmed?

Yes. After installation, the engine's computer must perform an "Idle Air Volume Learning" (IAVL) procedure. [20] Skipping this step will cause a very high or unstable idle. This requires a compatible professional scan tool. [21]

What is the most common installation mistake?

Cracking the cylinder head by over-tightening the spark plugs. The torque specification is very low at 14 ft-lbs. This must be done with a torque wrench on a completely cold engine.

What parts are typically included with a used engine?

A used engine assembly generally includes the cylinder block and head, all internal components (crankshaft, pistons, camshafts), oil pan, valve cover, timing cover, timing chain, fuel rail, injectors, electronic throttle body, harmonic balancer, and intake manifold. It does NOT typically include the A/C compressor, alternator, starter, power steering pump, flywheel/flexplate, or exhaust manifold. You must transfer these parts from your old engine. [2]

Why does my mechanic need to transfer my old wiring harness?

You must reuse and transfer your original engine wiring harness to the replacement engine because pinouts and connector shapes can vary slightly between model years and emissions packages. Reusing your original harness ensures the engine communicates perfectly with your car's computer.

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Nissan Electronic Throttle Body (ETB) Re-Learn Procedure

Technical Specifications

Engine Code: MRA8DE (also MRA8, MR18DE); Displacement: 1.8 Liters; Configuration: Inline 4-Cylinder; Aspiration: Naturally Aspirated; Fuel System: Port Fuel Injection; Drivetrain: Front-Wheel-Drive (FWD); Model Years: 2013-2019; VIN Identifier: 4th digit 'A'; Spark Plug Torque: 14 ft-lbs (19.6 Nm); Oil Type: 0W-20 Full Synthetic; Oil Capacity: 4.2 - 4.5 liters; Weight: Approx. 252 lbs

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Nissan MR Engine for:
  • Nissan Sentra: 2013201420152016201720182019
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