3.5L V6 SOHC Engine Complete Assembly for 2022-2025 Acura MDX - Front

A quick look at your own vehicle makes sure the right engine shows up:

• Verify your VIN's 6th Digit: Look at your vehicle's 17-digit VIN. Confirm that the 6th digit is either 1 (for All-Wheel Drive models) or 9 (for Front-Wheel Drive models). If your 6th digit is 8, your vehicle is a Type-S model with a 3.0L Turbo engine, and this 3.5L engine will not fit.
• Locate the Engine Code Stamping: Look at the front of your original engine block, near the area where the engine mates to the transmission. Verify that the stamped code reads J35Y5.
• Confirm your Drivetrain Configuration: Note whether your vehicle is Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) or All-Wheel Drive (SH-AWD). If there is a mismatch between your vehicle and the replacement engine's donor configuration, remember that you must swap your original oil pan and intermediate shaft brackets.

What the install really takes — plan and budget with confidence:

Special tools this job needs:

• Crankshaft Pulley Holder Tool (Honda/Acura OEM #07AAB-PY3A100)
• Weighted 19mm Crankshaft Socket (e.g., Lisle 77080)
• Bidirectional Scan Tool

Budget for these consumables at install:

• Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump (Aisin TKH-002 recommended)
• Engine Oil (5.6 quarts of premium SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic) & Filter
• Engine Coolant (Approximately 2 gallons of Honda/Acura Type 2 Blue Coolant)
• Spark Plugs (6 new OEM-spec NGK Laser Iridium)
• Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Direct-Injection Fuel Seals (Teflon combustion chamber seals and O-rings)
• Rear main seal

What your vehicle’s computers will need after the swap:

What’s involved: Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Relearn and Idle Relearn

After installing the engine, you must perform a CKP relearn using a bi-directional scan tool (like Honda HDS, Autel, or Snap-On). This process calibrates the engine computer to the physical tolerances of the new crankshaft and sensor. If you skip this step, the computer will not accurately track cylinder rotation, which typically triggers false misfire codes (P0300–P0306), a flashing Check Engine Light, or a P0339 code.

Pro tips for a smooth first start-up — hand them to whoever does the install:

• The bolt holding the crankshaft pulley on Honda J-series engines is notoriously tight. You must use a heavy-duty, weighted 19mm socket designed specifically for Honda crank bolts, or use the factory pulley holder tool with a long breaker bar.
• Acura MDX models are configured in either Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) or All-Wheel Drive (SH-AWD). While the core engine block is identical, the oil pans, structural engine-to-transmission brackets, and intermediate shaft brackets differ. If you are putting an AWD engine into a FWD vehicle (or vice versa), you must swap your original oil pan, brackets, and intermediate shaft onto the replacement engine block.
• The direct-injection system operates under extreme pressure (exceeding 3,000 PSI). You must properly relieve the fuel system pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines. The metal high-pressure fuel pipe that connects the high-pressure pump to the fuel rails is a one-time-use crush-seal component; do not attempt to reuse it.
• The easiest way to remove this engine is out the bottom by dropping the front subframe. Attempting to pull it out from the top is incredibly difficult due to clearance issues with the cowl and firewall.
• The VCM system relies on active engine mounts to cancel out vibrations when running on 3 cylinders. These mounts are expensive and prone to failure. Inspect your original mounts carefully and replace them if they show signs of leaking or tearing.

Easy to get right once you know them:

• Attempting to reuse the metal high-pressure fuel pipe. Because this pipe relies on a single-use crush flare to seal, reusing it almost always results in a high-pressure fuel leak under your intake manifold, creating an immediate fire hazard.
• Skipping the timing belt and water pump replacement because the used engine has relatively low mileage. Rubber timing belts degrade with age regardless of mileage, and a belt failure results in catastrophic, non-warrantied engine destruction.
• Failing to perform the mandatory Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor relearn using a diagnostic scan tool, which leads to random misfire codes (P0300), a flashing Check Engine Light, or a P0339 code.
• Using the wrong oil weight (such as 5W-30). The J35Y5 engine relies on the precise viscosity of 0W-20 full synthetic oil to operate the hydraulic solenoids for the Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) and i-VTEC systems.
• Reusing torn or worn active engine mounts, which will make the replacement engine feel rough and vibrate excessively in the cabin.
• Failing to verify drivetrain configuration (FWD vs SH-AWD) and neglecting to swap the oil pan, brackets, and intermediate shaft when there is a mismatch.

Not issues with the units on this page — the manufacturer documented these for every engine of this family, wherever you buy one. Handy for your installer: