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2002-2008 Acura TL Window Regulator: Decoding Generations and Common Failures

This guide clarifies the critical differences between 2nd Gen (2002-03) and 3rd Gen (2004-08) regulators and shows you how to diagnose and replace them.

7 minutes to read 2002-2008 Acura TL
Difficulty
3/5
Est. Time
2 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$130 - $200
Used OEM Price
$50 - $125
⚠️ Drivable, but... — Yes, but the window will be inoperable. This poses a security risk if the window is stuck down and is a major inconvenience if stuck up.
Key Takeaways
  • You must identify if your TL is a 2nd Gen (2002-03) or 3rd Gen (2004-08) as the regulators are completely different and not interchangeable.
  • A loud grinding noise or the window suddenly dropping into the door are the most common signs of a snapped regulator cable.
  • After replacement, you must perform a simple window reset procedure to restore the 'auto up/down' function.
  • Buying a complete used OEM regulator assembly is often a more reliable and cost-effective solution than buying a new aftermarket part or attempting to repair the old one.
The window regulator is the mechanical assembly inside your Acura TL's door that lifts and lowers the window glass. It functions like a small elevator, converting the rotational force of an electric window motor into vertical movement. In both the second and third-generation TL, this is a cable-driven system. The motor winds and unwinds steel cables through a series of pulleys, which moves the glass carrier up and down its track. While effective, this cable-and-pulley design is a known weak point, as the cables can fray, stretch, or snap over time, and the plastic components can become brittle and break.

A Critical Distinction: 2nd Gen vs. 3rd Gen TL

Before diagnosing or buying a window regulator for an Acura TL, you must first identify your vehicle's generation. The parts are not interchangeable between generations.

  • Second Generation (UA5): 2002-2003 model years. These regulators use part numbers starting with 722xx-S0K-xxx.
  • Third Generation (UA6/UA7): 2004-2008 model years. These regulators use part numbers starting with 722xx-SEP-xxx.

Mixing these up is a common and costly mistake. This guide is organized to help you find the specific information for your generation.

Symptoms of a Failing Window Regulator

Window regulator failure is a very common issue on both generations of the Acura TL. The symptoms are usually obvious and help distinguish a bad regulator from a faulty switch or motor.

🎬 Watch: Common signs of a failing window regulator
  • Grinding, Crunching, or Popping Noises: This is the most classic sign. When you press the window switch, a loud grinding or tangled sound from inside the door indicates the regulator cable has likely snapped, frayed, or jumped off its pulleys.
  • Window Drops Into the Door: The window may suddenly fall completely into the door cavity, either while driving or when you try to operate it. This happens when the cable or a critical plastic guide clip breaks, leaving nothing to hold the glass up.
  • Slow, Jerky, or Stuttering Movement: If the window struggles to move, moves in a jerky motion, or is noticeably slower than it used to be, the cable may be binding or the motor is being strained by a failing regulator.
  • Crooked or Off-Track Window: A broken regulator can cause the glass to tilt forward or backward in the door frame. This prevents a proper seal and may trigger the anti-pinch safety feature, causing the window to automatically go back down after you try to close it.
  • Motor Clicks, But Window Doesn't Move: If you can hear the window motor whir or click when you press the switch but the glass stays put, the motor is likely receiving power, but the mechanical regulator is broken.

Buying a Used 2002-2008 Acura TL Window Regulator

A used OEM window regulator can be a reliable and cost-effective alternative to expensive new parts or lower-quality aftermarket units. Here’s what to look for to ensure you get a good part.

Step 1: Verify Your Generation and Part Number

This is the most important step. Confirm if you have a 2002-2003 (S0K) or 2004-2008 (SEP) model. Each of the four doors uses a unique, non-interchangeable regulator. Use the part number lists in this guide to match the exact part you need for the correct door (e.g., Front Driver Side).

Step 2: Physical Inspection Checklist

When inspecting a used regulator, check the following:

  • Cables: The steel cables should be tight and free of any fraying, kinks, or rust. A loose or tangled cable is the primary failure point.
  • Plastic Guides and Pulleys: Inspect all plastic components, especially the clips that hold the cable and the pulleys it runs on. Look for cracks, stress marks, or any signs of breakage. These parts become brittle with age.
  • Mounting Points: Ensure all metal mounting tabs are straight and the bolt holes are intact. Bent tabs can make installation difficult and suggest the part was removed forcefully.
  • Motor Included: Most used regulators are sold as an assembly with the motor attached. Confirm this is the case. Test the motor if possible by applying 12V power, but the mechanical condition of the regulator is more critical, as the motors are generally robust.

Why a Used OEM Regulator is Often a Smart Choice

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts are designed by Acura for a perfect fit and function. While some aftermarket brands like Dorman or Aisin are reputable, they may sometimes lack features like the auto up/down function. A used OEM part from a low-mileage vehicle provides the same quality and fit as a new dealer part at a fraction of the cost, often outlasting cheap, new aftermarket alternatives.

🎬 Watch: What to inspect before buying a replacement

Compatibility Warning: For 2002-2003 models, pay close attention to the electrical connector on the motor. While most are 6-pin, some early models may have a different plug. Always compare the connector on the replacement part to your original before installation.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

There are no specific recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from Acura or the NHTSA directly addressing window regulator failure for the 2002-2008 TL. However, the issue is widely documented by owners in forums as a common wear-and-tear item. The primary recalls for these vehicles concern issues like Takata airbags, power steering hoses, and automatic transmissions, not the window regulators.

Replacement Overview & Difficulty

Replacing the window regulator is a manageable DIY project for someone with basic mechanical skills. The process involves removing the interior door panel, carefully peeling back the vapor barrier, supporting the window glass, and then unbolting the regulator assembly.

  • Difficulty Rating: 3 out of 5
  • Estimated Time: 1.5 - 2.5 hours
  • Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket and ratchet, trim removal tools, and strong tape (like duct tape) to hold the window glass in the 'up' position while you work.

Pro Tip: Before unplugging the old regulator, use the window switch to move the glass until you can see the two 10mm bolts that attach it to the regulator track through the access holes in the door. This makes separating the glass from the old regulator much easier.

🎬 See this step-by-step regulator replacement walkthrough

Window Reset Procedure (Required After Replacement)

After replacing the regulator or disconnecting the battery, the driver's 'auto up/down' feature will be disabled. You must reset it.

  1. Turn the ignition to the ON (II) position.
  2. Lower the driver's window all the way down using the switch.
  3. Pull the switch up to raise the window all the way to the top, and continue to hold the switch in the 'up' position for 2-3 seconds after it closes.
  4. The auto up/down function should now be restored.

Cost Comparison: New vs. Used vs. Aftermarket

Part TypeEstimated Price RangeNotes
New OEM (Dealer)$230 - $460Highest cost, guaranteed fit and function.
New Aftermarket$70 - $150Varying quality. Brands like Dorman are popular but may lack auto-window features.
Used OEM$50 - $125Excellent value, providing OEM quality for aftermarket prices.
Shop Labor Cost$130 - $200Typically 1-1.5 hours of labor at an independent shop.

Part Number Reference

The following are known OEM part numbers. This list is for reference; always verify the part number and fitment for your specific vehicle and door position before purchasing.

2004-2008 Acura TL (3rd Gen)

PositionPart Numbers
Front Right (Passenger)72210-SEP-305, 72210-SEP-A01, 72210-SEP-A02
Front Left (Driver)72250-SEP-305, 72250-SEP-A01, 72250-SEP-A02
Rear Right (Passenger)72710-SEP-A01, 72710-SEP-A02
Rear Left (Driver)72750-SEP-A01, 72750-SEP-A02

2002-2003 Acura TL (2nd Gen)

PositionPart Numbers
Front Right (Passenger)72210-S0K-A01, 72210-S0K-A02, 72210-S0K-A03, 72210-S0K-A11, 72210-S0K-A12, 72210-S0K-A13
Front Left (Driver)72250-S0K-A01, 72250-S0K-A02, 72250-S0K-A03, 72250-S0K-A11, 72250-S0K-A12, 72250-S0K-A13

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I just replace the motor or the cable instead of the whole assembly?

While it is sometimes possible to repair the cable mechanism or replace just the motor, it is not recommended. The regulator and motor are designed as a matched set, and failure of one component (like the cable) often puts excessive strain on the other. Buying a complete, used OEM assembly is typically faster, easier, and more reliable in the long run.

My window goes down but won't go up. Is it the regulator?

This can be caused by several things. It could be a failing regulator that is binding on the way up, a problem with the window switch, or an issue with the motor itself. If you hear grinding noises when trying to go up, the regulator is the likely culprit. If you hear nothing, the problem could be the 'up' contact in the switch or the motor.

Will a window regulator from a Honda Accord fit my Acura TL?

While the 1999-2003 TL shares a platform with the Honda Accord of the same era, and some parts are interchangeable, you should not assume the window regulator will fit. Always purchase a regulator specifically listed for your Acura TL's year and model to guarantee proper fitment and electrical compatibility.

The window goes up and then comes back down a few inches. What's wrong?

This is usually the anti-pinch safety feature being activated incorrectly. It can be caused by a crooked window due to a bad regulator, or by resistance in the window channels. Try cleaning and lubricating the window's rubber channels with a silicone spray first. If that doesn't work, the regulator may be failing and causing the glass to bind. Performing the window reset procedure can also sometimes resolve this.

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Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 72210-S0K-A11 72210-S0K-A12 72210-S0K-A13 72210-SEP-305 72210-SEP-A01 72210-SEP-A02 72250-S0K-A01 72250-S0K-A02 72250-S0K-A03 72250-S0K-A11 72250-S0K-A12 72250-S0K-A13 72250-SEP-305 72250-SEP-A01 72250-SEP-A02 72710-SEP-A01 72710-SEP-A02 72750-SEP-A01 72750-SEP-A02

Cable-driven power window regulator and motor assembly. Typically uses a 6-pin electrical connector.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Jul 21, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Window Regulator for:
  • Acura TL: 2002200320042005200620072008
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