1987 Merkur XR4Ti 'Pie-Spoke' Wheel: Identifying the One-Year-Only Design

1987 Merkur XR4Ti Wheel: Key Specifications

The 1987 model year featured a wheel design that was used for this year only, making it a key identifying feature. Using wheels with incorrect specifications can lead to poor handling, tire rubbing, and premature wear on suspension and wheel bearings.

Identifying the Correct 1987 'Pie-Spoke' Wheel

For buyers, it is critical to distinguish the 1987 wheel from those on other XR4Ti model years. The Merkur XR4Ti used three distinct wheel styles during its 1985-1989 production run.

• 1985-1986: These models used a 14x5.5-inch alloy wheel with an 8-hole 'phone dial' design.
• 1987: This is the unique 15x5.5-inch, 8-slot 'pie-spoke' wheel. It has eight wide, flat spokes that give it a solid, directional look.
• 1988-1989: For its final years, the XR4Ti was equipped with a 15x5.5-inch multi-spoke BBS-style 'wire' wheel.

Always verify the design and size before purchasing to ensure you are getting the correct part for a factory-original 1987 model.

Symptoms of a Failing or Damaged Wheel

Wheel issues can range from cosmetic annoyances to critical safety failures. Knowing the symptoms can help you diagnose a problem before it becomes severe.

• Vibration or Wobble: A rhythmic vibration felt in the steering wheel or through the seat, especially at highway speeds (typically 50-70 mph), is a classic symptom of a bent or out-of-round wheel. This can also be caused by an imbalanced tire, but if balancing doesn't solve it, the wheel itself is likely the culprit.
• Constant Air Loss in Tire: If a tire continually loses air without any visible punctures, the cause could be a hairline crack in the wheel or corrosion on the bead seat. The bead seat is the inner lip of the wheel where the tire seals. Corrosion creates an uneven surface that allows air to slowly escape.
• Difficulty Balancing: A tire technician may report that the wheel requires an excessive amount of weight to balance. This indicates the wheel is bent or has a heavy spot, making it impossible to balance properly.
• Visible Damage: Obvious signs like cracks, especially radiating from a lug hole or spoke, are a critical safety issue. A cracked wheel must be replaced immediately. Dents or gouges on the wheel lip from curb impacts are also common.
• Finish Degradation: The original clear coat can peel or flake away over time, exposing the aluminum underneath to the elements. This leads to a white, chalky corrosion that spiders under the remaining clear coat.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

As of this writing, there are no specific NHTSA recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) issued for the wheels on the 1987 Merkur XR4Ti. Any issues that arise are typically due to age, environmental exposure (road salt), or impact damage from road hazards and curbs.

Buying a Used 1987 XR4Ti Wheel: A Detailed Inspection Guide

Given that new OEM wheels are no longer available, buying a used or remanufactured wheel is the most common option. A thorough inspection is crucial to avoid buying a damaged or unsafe part.

Physical Inspection Checklist

1. Check for Bends: Lay the wheel on a flat, level surface. Look at the gap between the wheel lip and the floor. Slowly rotate the wheel and watch for any variation in the gap. A significant wobble indicates a bend. Check both the front (outward-facing) and back (inward-facing) lips. Backside bends are common and harder to spot when the wheel is on a car.
2. Inspect for Cracks: This is the most important safety check. Clean the wheel and carefully inspect it for hairline cracks. Pay close attention to the area around each lug nut hole and where the spokes meet the outer rim and center hub. Use a bright light.
3. Examine the Lug Holes: The lug nut seats should be perfectly round. If they appear oval or distorted, it's a sign the wheel was driven with loose lug nuts, which can damage the wheel and make it impossible to torque correctly.
4. Look for Previous Repairs: Look for signs of welding on the back of the wheel. While some cracks can be professionally repaired, it can compromise the strength of the alloy. Uneven surfaces, grind marks, or mismatched paint can indicate a past repair. Be wary of freshly painted wheels, as paint can hide cracks or filler.
5. Assess the Finish: Note any curb rash (scraping on the outer lip), peeling clear coat, or corrosion. While cosmetic, these issues will require refinishing to restore the wheel's appearance, adding to the total cost.
6. Verify Part Numbers: Check the back of the wheel for the Ford logo and the E6RY-1007-A part number to confirm it is a genuine OEM part.

Wheel Refinishing: Paint and Costs

The original color for these wheels is a standard silver. A very close match available today is Ford Argent Silver, sold by companies like VHT under part number SP188. This is ideal for touch-ups or a full repaint.

If you buy a used wheel with cosmetic damage, you may need to have it professionally refinished. This ensures a durable, long-lasting finish.

• Curb Rash Repair & Repaint: For minor scrapes and a fresh coat of paint, expect to pay between $125 and $200 per wheel.
• Powder Coating: A more durable option involves stripping the wheel to bare metal and applying a powder-coated finish. This typically costs between $165 and $250 per wheel and offers superior resistance to chipping and corrosion.

Cost Comparison

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)