1990-1994 Eclipse, Talon & Laser Strut Guide: Clunks, Leaks, and FWD-Only Facts
This guide covers diagnosing, replacing, and buying used suspension struts for the front-wheel-drive, non-turbo 1990-1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Chrysler Laser, and Plymouth Laser.
- These struts fit ONLY front-wheel drive (FWD), non-turbo models. They are not compatible with AWD or Turbo vehicles.
- Key failure symptoms include clunking over bumps, a bouncy ride, and visible fluid leaks down the strut body.
- When replacing struts, it is highly recommended to also replace the upper mounts, bearings, dust boots, and bump stops.
- A wheel alignment is mandatory after replacing front struts to prevent poor handling and premature tire wear.
Critical Compatibility Warning: FWD Non-Turbo Models Only
Warning: The suspension struts discussed in this guide are ONLY for front-wheel drive (FWD), non-turbocharged models of the 1990-1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Chrysler Laser, and Plymouth Laser (often called 1G DSM cars). The struts for turbocharged (TSI, TSi AWD) and all-wheel drive (AWD) models are different and are not interchangeable. Attempting to install the wrong struts will result in improper ride height, poor handling, and unsafe driving conditions. Always verify the specific application before purchasing.
Symptoms of a Failing Suspension Strut
When struts wear out, they give several clear warning signs. The changes can be gradual, so you might get used to a poor ride, but these symptoms indicate it's time for a replacement.
Noises
- Clunking or Banging: A common symptom is a loud clunk, knock, or bang when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven road surfaces. This is often caused by the strut bottoming out due to a lack of damping or by worn mounting components.
- Creaking or Squeaking When Turning: If you hear a creaking, groaning, or popping sound when turning the steering wheel, it often points to a worn-out upper strut mount or bearing.
- Rattling: A metallic rattle can suggest loose components within the strut assembly.
Poor Ride Quality and Handling
- Bouncy Ride: The most classic sign of a worn shock absorber within the strut is an excessively bouncy or floaty ride. After hitting a bump, the car will continue to bounce up and down instead of settling quickly.
- Nose-Diving and Squatting: When you brake hard, the front of the car may dip or "nose-dive" excessively. Conversely, the rear of the car may "squat" down during hard acceleration.
- Body Roll: The vehicle may feel unstable, swaying or leaning excessively when cornering or changing lanes.
- Steering Wheel Vibration: Vibrations felt through the steering wheel, especially on smooth roads, can be a sign of failing struts.
Visual Signs
- Fluid Leaks: Struts are filled with hydraulic fluid. A clear sign of failure is oily fluid leaking from the strut body. This indicates the internal seals have failed, and the strut can no longer provide damping.
- Uneven Tire Wear: Worn struts allow the tires to bounce, causing a specific type of uneven wear called "cupping" or "scalloping." You can often feel these dips or high and low spots by running your hand over the tire's tread.
- Damaged Strut Body or Components: A visual inspection may reveal a dented or damaged strut housing, or cracked and rotted rubber bump stops and dust boots.
Buying a Used Suspension Strut
Buying a used OEM strut can be a cost-effective option, but careful inspection is key. A good used OEM strut is often a better choice than a cheap, new aftermarket part due to superior build quality and valving designed specifically for your vehicle.
Inspection Checklist
- Check for Leaks: This is the most important check. The strut body should be dry. Any sign of oily residue or active fluid leakage means the strut is bad. A little bit of dust stuck to the shaft is normal, but wetness is a red flag.
- Inspect the Piston Rod: The chrome piston rod that extends from the strut body should be smooth, straight, and free of rust, pitting, or damage. Any imperfections can tear the main seal and cause leaks.
- Perform a Bounce Test (If Possible): If the strut is still on the donor car, push down hard on the corner of the vehicle. It should compress and return to its normal height in one smooth motion, settling immediately. If it bounces multiple times, the strut is worn out.
- Examine the Mounts and Bushings: If you are buying a complete strut assembly, inspect the upper strut mount for cracked or separated rubber. Check the lower mounting holes for elongation or damage.
- Ask About Mileage: While not always possible, knowing the mileage of the donor vehicle is helpful. Struts typically have a lifespan of 50,000 to 100,000 miles. A strut from a low-mileage vehicle is a much safer bet.
Pro Tip: It is highly recommended to replace struts in pairs (both front or both rear) to ensure even handling and stability. Replacing just one can lead to unpredictable vehicle behavior.
Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls
For the 1990-1994 model years, there are no specific recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) issued by Mitsubishi, Chrysler, or Eagle that directly address failing suspension struts. However, many suspension noises can be misdiagnosed. Forum discussions among owners often point to other worn components like sway bar end links, ball joints, or control arm bushings as sources of clunking noises that can be mistaken for a bad strut.
Replacement Information
Replacing the struts on a 1G DSM is a feasible DIY project for someone with mechanical experience and the right tools. The most critical tool is a spring compressor, which can often be rented from auto parts stores.
Related Parts to Replace
When replacing a strut, it is best practice to also replace the surrounding wear items. This saves you from having to do the job twice. Consider replacing:
- Upper Strut Mount & Bearing: The rubber mount degrades over time, and the bearing can wear out, causing noise when steering.
- Dust Boot / Bellows: This protects the piston rod from dirt and debris. A torn boot will drastically shorten the life of the new strut.
- Bump Stop: This is a foam or rubber cushion that prevents the suspension from bottoming out. They often crumble and disintegrate with age.
Torque Specifications
Using a torque wrench is critical for safety. These are the factory torque specs for FWD models.
| Fastener | Torque Spec |
|---|---|
| Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts (two large lower bolts) | 80-101 ft-lbs |
| Strut-to-Body Nuts (three upper mount nuts) | 29-39 ft-lbs |
| Strut Shaft Nut (center nut, requires spring compressor) | 43-51 ft-lbs |
Warning: Never attempt to remove the center strut shaft nut without first compressing the coil spring with a proper spring compressor tool. The spring is under extreme tension and can cause serious injury or death if it releases unexpectedly.
Cost Comparison
Prices can vary based on brand and location. This table provides a general estimate for a single strut.
| Part Type | Estimated Cost (per strut) |
|---|---|
| New OEM | $130 - $250+ (if available) |
| New Aftermarket (e.g., KYB, Monroe) | $60 - $150 |
| New Aftermarket (Full Assembly) | $100 - $240 |
| Used OEM | $40 - $90 |
| Shop Labor | $140 - $300 per strut |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need a wheel alignment after replacing my struts?
Yes, absolutely. The front struts are a key part of the steering geometry. Replacing them will alter the camber and toe alignment settings. A four-wheel alignment is required after replacement to ensure proper handling and prevent rapid tire wear.
Can I replace just the strut and reuse my old spring?
Yes, this is the standard procedure. You can reuse your original coil spring unless it is broken or severely rusted. This requires a spring compressor to safely transfer the spring and top mount to the new strut. Alternatively, you can buy a "quick strut" or complete strut assembly, which comes pre-assembled with a new spring and mount, simplifying installation.
Are the front and rear struts the same?
No. Front and rear struts are different parts and are not interchangeable. Furthermore, on some models, the front struts may be different for the driver's side and passenger's side. Always order the part for the specific location you are replacing.
Are these struts rebuildable?
No, the factory OEM struts on these vehicles are sealed units and are not designed to be rebuilt. When the internal shock absorber fails, the entire strut unit must be replaced.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: MB338610 MB515412 MB515413 MB515414 MB584342
Front Strut to Knuckle Torque: 80-101 ft-lbs. Front Strut to Body Torque: 29-39 ft-lbs.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Mitsubishi Eclipse:
- Eagle Talon:
- Chrysler Laser:
- Plymouth Laser:
- 🛍️ Shop This Part
- Critical Compatibility Warning: FWD Non-Turbo Models Only
- Symptoms of a Failing Suspension Strut
- Noises
- Poor Ride Quality and Handling
- Visual Signs
- Buying a Used Suspension Strut
- Inspection Checklist
- Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls
- Replacement Information
- Related Parts to Replace
- Torque Specifications
- Cost Comparison
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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