Ford Escape Strut Guide (2013-2022): Decoding Clunks, Noises, and Part Numbers

Key Differences: 3rd Gen (2013-2019) vs. 4th Gen (2020-2022)

Before diagnosing a problem, it's essential to know which Ford Escape you're working on. The 2013-2022 model years span two completely different vehicle platforms with unique suspension designs, part numbers, and common problems.

• 3rd Generation (2013-2019): This generation is well-known for developing suspension noises, particularly clunks and rattles from the front and rear. Many issues are related to worn supporting components like sway bar links and strut mounts.
• 4th Generation (2020-2022): This newer platform has a redesigned suspension. While less prone to the same issues as the prior generation, it has its own specific set of technical service bulletins (TSBs) related to suspension noises.

Symptoms of a Failing Front Strut

A worn or failing front strut can manifest in several ways. Some symptoms are obvious, while others are more subtle.

• Clunking or Knocking Noises: This is the most common complaint. A sharp 'clunk' or 'pop' when driving over bumps, potholes, or making sharp turns often points to a suspension issue. While the strut itself can fail internally, this noise is frequently caused by a worn strut mount or a broken sway bar link.
• Bouncy or Unstable Ride: If your Escape feels like it's floating, bouncing multiple times after hitting a dip, or swaying excessively on highway curves, the shock-absorbing part of the strut has likely failed. It's no longer controlling the spring's movement.
• Nose-Diving During Braking: When you apply the brakes firmly, a vehicle with bad front struts will dip forward excessively. This can increase stopping distances.
• Visible Fluid Leaks: The strut is filled with hydraulic fluid. If you see oily, wet residue coating the strut body, its main seal has failed. The strut must be replaced.
• Unusual Tire Wear: Worn struts can cause 'cupping'—a pattern of scalloped dips around the edge of the tire tread. This happens because the tire is bouncing as it rolls down the road.

Known Issues & TSBs by Generation

Third Generation (2013-2019) Common Problems

Owners of 2013-2019 Escapes frequently report suspension noises. Diagnosing the exact source is key to avoiding unnecessary repairs.

What's That Clunking Noise?

A clunking sound in this generation can come from several sources, often mistaken for a bad strut:

• Sway Bar (Stabilizer) Links: These are the most common culprits. A worn or broken sway bar link produces a distinct clunk or rattle over bumps, especially when one wheel hits a bump before the other. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.
• Strut Mounts & Bearings: The rubber mount at the top of the strut can degrade and tear, while the bearing inside can wear out. A bad mount often causes a heavy 'thud' over bumps, while a bad bearing can cause a 'popping' or 'binding' sound when turning the steering wheel.
• Lower Control Arm Bushings: The rubber bushings on the control arms can crack and fail, leading to a clunking noise during steering, acceleration, or braking.
🎬 See how to replace front lower control arms yourself
• Rear Shock Absorbers: A widespread issue, especially on 2013-2015 models, involves premature failure of the rear shocks, causing a loud clunk from the back of the vehicle. Ford issued Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 15-0194 to address this specific problem.
• Passenger Side Motor Mount: A failed upper engine mount on the passenger side can also produce a clunking sound over bumps as the engine moves excessively.

Fourth Generation (2020-2022) Common Problems

The newer Escape has fewer widespread strut failure complaints, but some documented issues can create suspension-related noises.

• TSB 23-2041 - Moan Noise in Reverse: Some 2020-2022 Escapes may exhibit a moaning or groaning noise from the rear when backing up, especially in cold or humid weather. Ford identifies this as being related to 'suspension sensitivity' and its interaction with the rear brake calipers. The fix involves replacing the rear caliper guide pin bushings.
• TSB 22-2161 - Grinding/Rubbing Noise: This TSB applies to some 2020-2022 AWD models that may have a grinding or rubbing noise coming from the floorpan or underbody area.

Buying a Used Suspension Strut

A low-mileage used OEM strut assembly can be an excellent value, often providing better ride quality and durability than a cheap, new aftermarket part. However, careful inspection and verification are critical.

Inspection Checklist

• Check for Leaks: The most important check. Run your hand over the main body of the strut. It should be dry and dusty. Any oily or greasy film indicates a leaking seal, and the part is no good.
• Inspect the Piston Rod: The shiny chrome rod that extends from the top of the strut body must be perfectly smooth. Any rust, pitting, or scoring will quickly destroy a new seal. Do not buy a strut with a damaged rod.
• Examine the Strut Mount: Look at the rubber in the top mount. It should be intact with no visible cracks, tears, or separation from the metal. Press down on the center and check for excessive play.
• Check the Coil Spring: Inspect the spring for heavy rust, cracks, or breaks. The protective coating should be mostly intact.
• Mileage is Key: A strut is a wear item. A part from a vehicle with 50,000 miles is a much better bet than one from a vehicle with 150,000 miles. Aim for the lowest mileage part available. Strut failure is common between 80,000 and 120,000 miles.

Compatibility is Crucial

Replacement & Installation

Replacing the front struts on a Ford Escape is an advanced DIY job. The rear shocks, by contrast, are much simpler.

Front Strut Replacement Procedure

The process for the 3rd generation (2013-2019) involves several complex steps:

1. Cowl Removal: To access the three nuts on top of the strut tower, the windshield wipers and the entire plastic cowl panel at the base of the windshield must be removed.
2. Component Disconnection: The sway bar link, brake line brackets, and ABS sensor wire must be detached from the strut.
3. Knuckle Separation: The strut is secured to the steering knuckle with two large bolts. These can be very tight and may require significant force to remove.
4. Complete Strut Assembly ('Quick-Strut'): It is highly recommended to use a complete, pre-assembled 'quick-strut' which includes a new strut, coil spring, and mount. Disassembling the old strut to reuse the coil spring requires a special spring compressor tool, which is extremely dangerous if used improperly.
🎬 Watch: Step-by-step guide to replacing front strut and spring assemblies

Important Torque Specs (2013-2019 Models)

Using a torque wrench is critical for safety. While specs can vary slightly, these are commonly cited values. Always consult the specific service manual for your year.

Cost to Replace Ford Escape Struts

Prices can vary significantly based on location, part brand, and the shop's labor rate.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)