1990-1999 Eclipse, Talon, Laser Strut Guide: Curing Suspension Clunks & Compatibility Traps

Critical Compatibility Warnings: Read Before Buying

Vehicle Generation Differences

It's important to know if you have a first-generation (1G) or second-generation (2G) vehicle, as their suspension designs are not the same.

• 1G (First Generation): 1990-1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse, 1990-1998 Eagle Talon, 1990-1994 Plymouth Laser, 1990-1994 Chrysler Laser. These cars use a MacPherson strut front suspension.
• 2G (Second Generation): 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, 1995-1998 Eagle Talon. These cars feature a more advanced double-wishbone front and multi-link rear suspension. While technically a 'shock absorber' in this setup, it is commonly sold and referred to as a strut.

Shared Platform Vehicles

The 1995-2000 Chrysler Sebring Coupe and 1995-2000 Dodge Avenger Coupe were built on the same platform as the 2G Mitsubishi Eclipse. Many suspension parts, including the struts for FWD non-turbo models, are interchangeable. This does not apply to the Sebring sedan or convertible models from all years.

Symptoms of a Failing Suspension Strut

When struts wear out, they give several warning signs. You may notice one or more of the following symptoms.

1. Noises: Clunks, Knocks, and Pops

This is the most common complaint. Worn struts can cause a distinct clunking or knocking sound when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven roads. This sound is often caused by the strut bottoming out due to a loss of damping pressure, or from worn strut mounts allowing excessive movement. You might also hear a popping noise when turning the steering wheel, which can point to a bad strut bearing or other worn suspension components like ball joints.

2. Poor Ride Quality

A car with bad struts will often feel overly bouncy. Instead of absorbing a bump and settling, the car will continue to bounce up and down. You may also experience:

• Nose-Diving: The front end of the car dips excessively when you apply the brakes.
• Body Roll: The vehicle leans or sways noticeably during turns.
• Rear Squat: The rear of the car sinks down when you accelerate.

3. Visible Fluid Leaks

Struts are filled with hydraulic fluid to dampen impacts. A clear sign of a failed strut is oily fluid leaking from the strut body. Look for a wet, grimy film covering the strut housing. This indicates the internal seals have failed and the strut can no longer function correctly.

4. Uneven Tire Wear

When struts fail, they can cause the tires to bounce erratically against the pavement, leading to a specific type of uneven wear called "cupping" or "scalloping." This looks like a series of high and low spots on the tire tread. If you see this pattern, it's a strong indication of a suspension problem.

Buying a Used Suspension Strut: What to Look For

Since new OEM struts for these older vehicles are often discontinued and expensive, a low-mileage used OEM strut can be a good value. However, struts are wear items, so careful inspection is key.

Physical Inspection Checklist:

• Check for Leaks: This is the number one red flag. The strut body should be dry. Any sign of oily residue means the strut is bad.
• Inspect for Rust: These cars are prone to rust. Check the strut body, and especially the lower spring perch (the plate the coil spring sits on). If the perch is heavily rusted, it can fail, causing the spring to collapse.
• Examine the Piston Rod: The shiny chrome rod that extends from the top of the strut should be perfectly straight and free of nicks, corrosion, or damage. Any damage to the rod can tear the upper seal, causing it to leak.
• Check the Mounts: Inspect all mounting points. The lower bracket that bolts to the knuckle should not be bent or have elongated holes. The upper mounting studs should be straight and have clean threads.
• Push/Pull Test: If the strut is off the car, try to compress and extend it by hand. It should move smoothly with consistent, firm resistance. If it moves too easily, feels gritty, or makes noise, it's worn out.
• Mileage is Key: Struts can last 100,000 miles or more, but their performance degrades over time. Always try to source a used strut from a vehicle with the lowest possible mileage. A part from a 70,000-mile car is a much better bet than one from a car with 150,000 miles.

Vehicle Inspection

If you are inspecting the donor car, pay close attention to the strut towers (the area in the engine bay or trunk where the top of the strut mounts). 2G models are known for severe strut tower rust, which can be a major structural and safety issue. If the tower is rusted, walk away, as it's a complex and expensive repair.

Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs

NHTSA Recall 00V421001 (1999 Models)

There was a safety recall for some 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse models concerning the front suspension's lower lateral arm ball joints. The rubber boots on the ball joints could have been damaged during assembly, allowing water and dirt to enter. This could lead to corrosion and cause the ball joint to separate, potentially causing a loss of vehicle control. While this recall is not for the strut itself, it affects a critical, related suspension component that should be inspected during any strut replacement.

Cost to Replace Suspension Struts

The cost can vary depending on the parts you choose and local labor rates. Replacing struts in pairs (both front or both rear) is always recommended.

Related Parts to Replace

When you replace a strut, it's a good time to inspect and likely replace other related wear items. This can save you from paying for the same labor twice down the road.

• Strut Mounts (Top Hats): These rubber and metal mounts at the top of the strut absorb vibrations and act as a pivot point. They wear out, causing noise and poor handling.
• Strut Bellows (Dust Boot) & Bump Stop: The bellows protects the strut's piston rod from dirt and debris, while the bump stop prevents damage from harsh impacts. These are almost always replaced with the strut.
• Coil Springs: Springs can sag over time, lowering ride height and affecting handling. If you're replacing struts, consider replacing the springs at the same time, especially if the car has high mileage.
• Sway Bar End Links: These connect the sway bar to the strut or control arm. They have small ball joints that wear out, causing a rattling or clunking noise over bumps.

Installation Tips and Torque Specs

Replacing a strut can be a DIY job for someone with mechanical experience, but it requires proper tools, including a spring compressor if you are not using a complete "quick-strut" assembly.

Torque Specifications (1G: 1990-1994)

These specs are for the MacPherson strut suspension. Always verify with a factory service manual.

Torque Specifications (2G: 1995-1999)

These specs are for the multi-link suspension. Always verify with a factory service manual.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)