2006-2011 Chevrolet HHR Front Strut: Decoding Noises and FE1/FE3/FE5 Suspensions

Symptoms of a Failing Front Strut

A worn or failing front strut on a Chevrolet HHR can manifest in several ways. Recognizing these signs early can prevent further damage and ensure your vehicle remains safe to drive.

Noises and Vibrations

• Clunking or Thumping Over Bumps: This is the most common complaint. A loud clunk or thump from the front end when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven roads often points to a worn strut or, more specifically, a failed strut mount.
• Rattling on Rough Surfaces: A persistent rattle from the front end can be caused by worn sway bar end links, which are often replaced at the same time as the struts. However, it can also indicate a loose component within the strut assembly itself.
• Popping or Grinding When Turning: A popping, binding, or grinding sound when turning the steering wheel at low speeds or while stationary often indicates a bad strut bearing plate. This bearing allows the entire strut assembly to pivot as you steer.
• Shaking in the Steering Wheel: While often associated with warped brake rotors, a severe shake in the steering wheel, especially when braking or hitting bumps, can be a sign of a badly worn strut that is failing to control wheel movement.

Handling and Performance Issues

• Bouncy or Floating Ride: If the internal shock absorber part of the strut has failed, it can no longer dampen spring oscillations. Your HHR may feel excessively bouncy, and the front end may seem to 'float' over bumps.
• Nose-Dive When Braking: Worn front struts can cause the front of the vehicle to dip excessively when you apply the brakes.
• Uneven Tire Wear: Because struts affect alignment, a failing one can cause 'cupping'—scalloped dips around the tread of the tire—or accelerated wear on the inner or outer edges.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

While there are no specific recalls for the front struts on the 2006-2011 HHR, several related recalls and common issues are important to know.

• Recalls: The HHR has had several major recalls, including for the ignition switch (NHTSA 14V047) and power steering motor (NHTSA 14V153). While not directly related to the struts, these are critical safety issues to be aware of for this vehicle generation.
• TSBs: There are no prominent TSBs directly targeting HHR strut failure. However, clunking noises from the front end are a very common owner complaint, often traced back to worn sway bar end links or the strut mounts.
• Common Failure Point: The sway bar end links are a frequent source of front-end clunking on the HHR and are often misdiagnosed as bad struts. Due to their low cost and high failure rate, it's highly recommended to replace them when replacing the struts.

Understanding HHR Suspension Codes (FE1, FE3, FE5)

General Motors uses Regular Production Option (RPO) codes to identify factory-installed equipment. For the HHR, the front struts are specific to the suspension package. You can find your vehicle's RPO codes on a silver sticker inside the glove box.

• FE1 (Soft Ride Suspension): This is the standard suspension found on most LS and some LT models. It provides the most comfortable ride.
• FE3 (Sport/Touring Suspension): This is a firmer, sport-tuned suspension found on many 2LT models. It offers better handling than the FE1 package. The struts and springs are different from FE1.
• FE5 (Performance Suspension): This suspension is exclusive to the high-performance SS model. The struts, springs, control arms, and other components are completely different and are NOT interchangeable with FE1 or FE3 parts.

This guide and the associated parts fit vehicles with FE1 or FE3 suspension only. Installing these on an SS model (FE5) is not possible without changing numerous other suspension components.

Buying a Used Suspension Strut

A used OEM strut assembly can be an excellent value, often providing better performance and longevity than a cheap, new aftermarket unit. Here’s what to look for when inspecting a used strut for your HHR.

• Check for Leaks: The most important check is for fluid leaks. The strut body should be dry. Look for oily, wet, or grimy patches on the strut housing. This indicates the internal seals have failed and the damping fluid has escaped, rendering the strut useless.
• Inspect the Piston Rod: The shiny chrome rod extending from the top of the strut should be smooth and clean. Run your fingers along it. Any pitting, rust, or deep scratches will quickly destroy the new seal it passes through, causing it to leak. Reject any strut with a damaged rod.
• Examine the Spring: Inspect the coil spring for heavy rust, cracks, or breaks. A broken spring is an immediate deal-breaker. Surface rust is normal, but deep, flaking rust weakens the spring.
• Check the Mounts: Look at the upper strut mount. The rubber should be intact, not cracked, dry-rotted, or separated from the metal. Push on the center bearing; it should be firm. Any looseness means the mount is bad.
• Mileage Consideration: Struts are a wear item. Failure is common anywhere from 60,000 to 100,000 miles. When buying used, try to source a part from a lower-mileage vehicle (under 80,000 miles if possible). A used OEM strut from a 60,000-mile HHR is likely a better part than a brand-new, budget-brand complete strut assembly.

Cost Breakdown

Prices can vary, but here is a general cost comparison for a single front strut assembly for a non-SS Chevrolet HHR.

Replacement Overview & Torque Specs

Replacing the front struts on an HHR is a feasible DIY project for those with mechanical experience and the right tools. Using a "quick strut" or complete strut assembly (which includes the spring and mount) is highly recommended as it eliminates the dangerous step of using a spring compressor.

Key Steps:

1. Safely raise and support the vehicle and remove the front wheel.
2. Under the hood, loosen the three 13mm nuts on the top of the strut tower.
3. Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut body (18mm nut). This is often difficult and may require locking pliers.
4. Remove the two large 18mm bolts and nuts that clamp the strut to the steering knuckle. You may need a hammer to tap the bolts out.
5. With the knuckle bolts removed, remove the top three nuts completely and carefully maneuver the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. It can be helpful to have a second person to help guide the new strut into place.

Important Torque Specifications:

Using a torque wrench is critical for safety and proper function. Do not guess.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)