2012-2026 Tesla Model S & Model X Control Arm Failure: Decoding the Clunks and Squeaks

Known Issues, Service Bulletins, and Investigations

The front suspension on early Model S and Model X vehicles has been a known point of concern. In November 2020, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) opened an investigation into front suspension fore link failures on 2015-2017 Model S and 2016-2017 Model X vehicles. The investigation identified hundreds of instances of these links failing, though most occurred at low speeds, such as during parking maneuvers, without leading to a loss of vehicle control. While the investigation was closed without a formal recall, NHTSA noted that Tesla had previously issued a service bulletin in 2017 (SB-17-31-001) to replace the fore links on some vehicles and recommended that Tesla expand this program.

Another service bulletin, SB-20-31-006, addresses a creaking sound from the front upper control arm ball joints on certain Model X, Model 3, and Model Y vehicles. The bulletin states that water can get into the ball joint, causing surface corrosion and noise. The prescribed fix is to reseal the area around the ball joints to prevent water entry, and it is classified as a noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) issue, not a premature failure.

Symptoms of a Failing Control Arm

Because Teslas are so quiet without an internal combustion engine, suspension noises are much more noticeable. A failing control arm will almost always provide audible or physical warnings.

Clunking, Knocking, or Popping Noises

This is the most common symptom. You may hear a distinct 'clunk' or 'knock' from the front of the vehicle, especially when driving over bumps, speed bumps, or uneven pavement at low speeds. 🎬 Watch: Hear what a failing front suspension clunk sounds like The noise is caused by excessive play in a worn ball joint or bushing, which allows for metal-on-metal contact as the suspension moves.

Squeaking or Creaking Sounds

A sound like a creaky door or an old wooden ship, often heard when turning the steering wheel or going over speed bumps, typically points to worn or dried-out rubber bushings or a corroded ball joint.

Steering and Handling Issues

• Steering Wheel Vibration: A shimmy or vibration felt in the steering wheel, which may get worse with speed, can be caused by a worn control arm ball joint.
• Wandering or Loose Steering: The vehicle may feel less responsive or 'loose,' requiring constant small corrections to keep it driving straight. This indicates that a worn component is allowing the wheel alignment to shift during driving.
• Pulling to One Side: A bad control arm can cause the vehicle to pull to the left or right, as the worn components are unable to hold the wheel in the correct alignment.

Uneven Tire Wear

A worn control arm allows for unwanted movement in the suspension, which changes the wheel alignment dynamically. This often leads to accelerated wear on the inner or outer edges of the front tires, a classic sign of an alignment problem rooted in a failing suspension part.

Buying a Used Suspension Control Arm

A used OEM control arm from a low-mileage vehicle can be an excellent value, offering the same fit and quality as a new part. However, a thorough inspection is crucial.

• Inspect the Bushings: The rubber bushings where the arm mounts to the subframe should be intact. Look for any signs of cracking, tearing, or separation of the rubber from the metal sleeve. Degraded bushings are a primary cause of failure.
• Check the Ball Joint: The ball joint is the pivot point that connects to the wheel knuckle. Try to move the ball joint stud by hand. There should be no looseness or 'play.' The rubber boot covering the ball joint must be free of rips or tears. A torn boot allows grease to escape and contaminants to enter, causing rapid wear.
• Examine the Arm Itself: Check the metal body of the control arm for any cracks, heavy corrosion, or signs of being bent from an accident. Pay close attention to the areas around the welds and mounting points.
• Verify Part Numbers: Double-check that the part number on the used arm matches the required part for your vehicle's year, model, and specific position (e.g., front left lower forward vs. front right upper).

Replacement Overview and Special Considerations

Replacing a control arm is a job for an experienced DIY mechanic or a professional shop. It requires safely lifting and supporting the vehicle and having the correct tools.

Related Parts

It is highly recommended to replace control arms in pairs (left and right) to ensure balanced handling and suspension performance. While you are working on the suspension, it is a good time to inspect other nearby components like the sway bar links, tie rod ends, and the other control arms/links for wear.

Mandatory Wheel Alignment

After replacing any control arm, a full four-wheel alignment is not optional—it is mandatory. Failure to get an alignment will result in poor handling, unsafe driving characteristics, and rapid, uneven tire wear.

Torque Specifications

Following proper torque specifications is critical for safety and performance. Some bolts must be tightened to their final torque value only when the vehicle's full weight is on the suspension (at normal ride height). Failure to do this can preload the rubber bushings, causing them to fail prematurely.

Cost Comparison

The cost to replace a Tesla control arm can vary significantly based on the specific part, vehicle model, and labor rates. Owners have reported total repair costs ranging from approximately $1,000 to over $3,000 for replacing control arms at a service center or independent shop.

OEM Part Numbers

This list includes known OEM part numbers for various front control arms and links that fit the Model S and Model X. Part numbers are frequently superseded, so always verify compatibility with your vehicle's VIN. The final letter in the part number often indicates a revision.

• Front Lower Forward Link (Fore Link): 6007998-00-C, 1041570-00-A, 1041570-00-B, 1420341-00-B, 1420341-00-C, 1620341-00-A, 1620341-00-B
• Other Known Numbers: 1027322-00-F, 1027322-00-G, 1027327-00-B, 1027327-00-C, 1027327-00-D, 1027327-00-E, 1027327-00-F, 1027351-00-C, 1048951-00-C, 1420346-00-C, 1421321-00-B

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)