Tesla Model 3 & Y Front Upper Control Arm Squeak: A Buyer's Guide (2017-2026)

Symptoms of a Failing Control Arm

The most infamous symptom of a failing front upper control arm on a 2017-2026 Tesla Model 3 or 2020-2026 Tesla Model Y is a distinct squeaking or creaking noise. This sound is often compared to a duck call or an old wooden ship and is most noticeable when turning the steering wheel at low speeds or when going over bumps.

• Creaking and Squeaking: This is the number one sign. The noise comes from the ball joint in the arm, which has lost its lubrication due to water getting past the protective boot.
• Clunking or Knocking: As the wear progresses, the noise can evolve into a clunk or rattle when driving over any road imperfection. This indicates more significant play in the ball joint.
• Steering Wander: A worn control arm can cause the steering to feel vague or loose, requiring constant small corrections to keep the car driving straight at highway speeds.
• Uneven Tire Wear: Since the control arm is essential for maintaining alignment, a failing one can cause the inside edge of the front tires to wear out prematurely.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Part Revisions

This is not just a simple wear-and-tear item; the front upper control arms on early Model 3 and Model Y vehicles have a known design issue. Tesla has addressed this through multiple part revisions and service actions.

The Root Cause: Water Intrusion

The primary cause of the squeaking is water penetrating the ball joint boot. This water displaces the grease, leading to corrosion and metal-on-metal contact inside the joint, which creates the noise. Tesla acknowledged this in Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) SB-20-31-006, which describes a procedure to reseal the ball joint area with urethane as a temporary fix, though many owners and shops prefer to replace the entire arm.

Safety Recalls

While the squeaking is often considered a non-safety noise issue, there have been related safety recalls for control arm fasteners:

• NHTSA Campaign 20V709000: This recall affected some 2020 Model Y vehicles. The bolts connecting the front upper control arm to the steering knuckle may not have been torqued correctly at the factory. A loose bolt could allow the arm to separate, leading to a loss of steering control.
• NHTSA Campaign 21V835000: This recall was for certain 2019-2021 Model 3 and 2020-2021 Model Y vehicles. It addressed fasteners for the front lower control arm (lateral link) that could be loose, potentially allowing the arm to detach from the subframe.

Part Number Revisions

Tesla has released several updated versions of the front upper control arms to improve the ball joint seal. When buying a used part, it is critical to get the latest revision possible. For example, the front right upper arm has gone through revisions like 1044423-00-A up to 1044423-00-G and beyond. Newer revisions are designed to be more robust against water intrusion.

Which Control Arm Do You Need? A Quick Guide

A Tesla's suspension has multiple arms per corner. It's easy to get confused. Here's a simple breakdown:

• Front Upper Control Arm: The most common failure point causing the squeak. Often called the "FUCA". Part numbers often start with 1044423 (Right) and 1044425 (Left).
• Front Lower Control Arm (Fore Link / Compliance Arm): Connects to the front of the subframe. Failure can cause clunking during acceleration or braking.
• Front Lower Control Arm (Aft Link / Lateral Link): The subject of recall 21V835000 for loose bolts.
• Rear Upper Control Arm (Forward/Fore Link): One of two upper links in the rear.
• Rear Upper Control Arm (Rearward/Aft Link): Also called the camber link. The initial prompt data included part numbers for this, such as 1044431-00-H.

Buying a Used Suspension Control Arm

A used OEM control arm can be a great value, especially since Tesla often covers labor as a 'goodwill' gesture, even out of warranty, if you supply the part. Here’s what to look for:

• Check the Ball Joint Boot: This is the most critical inspection. The black rubber boot around the ball joint must be perfectly intact. Look for any rips, tears, or signs of cracking. A compromised boot means the joint is likely contaminated and will fail soon.
• Verify the Part Number Revision: Ask the seller for the full part number, including the revision letter at the end (e.g., '-G'). Aim for the highest letter possible, as this indicates a newer, improved design.
• Inspect the Bushings: Check the rubber bushings at the inboard mounting points. The rubber should be firm and free of cracks or tearing.
• Look for Corrosion: Heavy surface rust, especially on parts from areas with heavy road salt use, can be a red flag. While some surface rust is normal, deep pitting or flaking is a concern.
• Why Used OEM is a Good Choice: Unlike many cheap aftermarket arms, a used OEM part maintains the original suspension geometry and includes design features like the cast-in vibration-damping weight, which some aftermarket parts omit.

Replacement Information

Replacing the front upper control arm is a moderately difficult job that a skilled DIY mechanic can perform.

• Difficulty: 3 out of 5.
• Estimated Time: 1.5 - 2.5 hours per side.
🎬 See this step-by-step DIY replacement walkthrough
• Key Steps: The process involves removing the front wheel, the frunk tub and associated trim to access the upper strut mount bolts, detaching the upper arm from the steering knuckle, and unbolting the arm's mount from the chassis. The mount must be lowered to get clearance to remove the long inner bolts.
• Special Tools: A torque wrench is essential. No other highly specialized tools are required, but a good socket set (including Torx sockets), and pry bars are necessary.
• Torque Specs: It is critical to tighten bolts to the correct specification, and some must be torqued with the suspension at ride height. Key specs include:
  • Upper control arm to knuckle pinch bolt: 56 Nm (41.3 lb-ft)
  • Upper control arm to mount bolts: 50 Nm (36.9 lb-ft)
  • Upper control arm mount to body (larger bolts): 62 Nm (45.7 lb-ft)
  • Upper control arm mount to body (smaller bolts): 35 Nm (25.8 lb-ft)

Cost to Replace Tesla Model 3 & Y Control Arms