1999-2003 Ford Windstar Control Arms & The Critical Subframe Rust Recall

The Most Critical Issue: Subframe Rust and Control Arm Separation

This problem was so severe that it led to a massive safety recall (NHTSA Campaign ID: 11V385000, Ford Recall: 11S16). The recall was primarily for vehicles sold or registered in 'salt belt' states where road salt accelerates corrosion. The failure typically happens with a loud "pop" or "bang," followed by grinding noises as the detached wheel assembly drags on the ground. Before purchasing this vehicle or any related suspension parts, the condition of the front subframe MUST be your primary concern.

Official Recall and Fix

Under recall 11S16, Ford dealers were instructed to inspect the subframe.

• If the subframe was deemed repairable, technicians would install reinforcement brackets to strengthen the control arm mounting points.
• If the subframe was corroded beyond repair, Ford would, in many cases, offer to replace the entire subframe or even buy back the vehicle.

This recall was related to another for the rear axle, which also suffered from severe corrosion issues (NHTSA 10V385000, Ford 10S13). Any Windstar from this generation should be assumed to have potential rust issues until proven otherwise.

Symptoms of a Failing Control Arm

While subframe failure is the most dangerous issue, the control arms themselves can also wear out. The most common points of failure are the rubber bushings and the integrated ball joint. Symptoms include:

• Clunking or Knocking Noises: A metallic clunking sound from the front end when going over bumps, potholes, or making turns. This is the most common symptom, caused by a worn ball joint or deteriorated bushings allowing for excessive movement.
🎬 See a demonstration of common front end noises
• Steering Wander: The vehicle may feel like it's wandering or pulling to one side, requiring constant steering corrections to keep it straight. This happens when worn bushings allow the wheel alignment to shift during driving.
• Vibrations: A vibration felt in the steering wheel, which may change with speed. This can be caused by a worn ball joint or bushings that no longer dampen road imperfections.
• Uneven Tire Wear: When the control arm is loose, it can't hold the wheel at the correct angle, leading to accelerated wear on the inner or outer edges of the tires.

Buying a Used Suspension Control Arm

Given the age of these vehicles, a used OEM control arm is a viable, budget-friendly option. However, because of the subframe rust issue, careful inspection is paramount.

What to Physically Inspect:

• Check the Donor Vehicle's Subframe: This is the most important step. Look at the area on the subframe where the control arm was mounted. If you see heavy scale, flaking rust, or any signs of repair (welds, brackets), be extremely cautious. The condition of the subframe tells you about the life the part has lived.
• Inspect the Bushings: Check the two rubber bushings. They should be intact, without major cracks, tears, or signs of the rubber being rotted or oil-soaked.
• Inspect the Ball Joint: The ball joint is sealed within a rubber boot. Ensure the boot is not torn or leaking grease. Grab the stud of the ball joint and try to move it by hand. It should be stiff and smooth, not loose or gritty. Any play means it's worn out.
• Check for Bends and Cracks: Look down the length of the arm to ensure it is straight and not bent from an accident. Pay close attention to the welds and mounting holes for any stress cracks.

Mileage and Value

Mileage is less of a concern than condition. A control arm from a 150,000-mile vehicle from a dry, southern state will likely be in far better condition than one from a 70,000-mile vehicle from the salt belt. The primary value of a used OEM part over a cheap new aftermarket part is the quality of the steel and the original factory ball joint, which are often more durable. On the 1999-2003 Windstar, the control arm is a simple, non-electronic part, making a clean, rust-free used OEM component an excellent value.

Cost Comparison

Prices can vary, but here is a general breakdown of what to expect for a single front lower control arm. It is highly recommended to replace them in pairs.

Replacement Overview & Torque Specs

Replacing the control arm is a feasible DIY job for someone with mechanical experience and the right tools. The process generally involves these steps:

1. Safely raise and support the vehicle on jack stands and remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the control arm.
3. Remove the pinch bolt that clamps the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud. Pry the knuckle open slightly to release the ball joint.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the control arm bushings to the subframe. One bolt is horizontal (front) and the other is vertical (rear).
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. A pry bar may be needed to align the bolt holes.

Key Torque Specifications:

• Control Arm to Subframe Bolts (Front & Rear): 98 - 113 ft-lbs
• Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Pinch Bolt: 45 - 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Bar Link Nut: 35 - 48 ft-lbs

An alignment is absolutely required after replacing a control arm.

Frequently Asked Questions