Rear Control Arm Guide: 2000-09 Taurus, Sable, Five Hundred, Freestyle & More

Understanding the Two Platforms

The vehicles covered in this guide were built on two distinct platforms, and they do not share the same control arm parts. It is critical to identify which platform your vehicle belongs to before purchasing parts.

• D186 Platform: This includes the 2000-2007 Ford Taurus and 2000-2005 Mercury Sable. These vehicles have specific rear control arms for sedan and wagon models. The warnings about parts fitting "Sedan models only" typically apply to this group.
• D3 Platform: This includes the 2005-2007 Ford Five Hundred, 2005-2007 Ford Freestyle, 2008-2009 Ford Taurus, 2008-2009 Ford Taurus X, 2005-2007 Mercury Montego, and the 2008-2009 Mercury Sable. The sedans (Five Hundred, Montego, Taurus) and crossovers (Freestyle, Taurus X) in this group share many suspension components.

Symptoms of a Failing Rear Control Arm

A bad rear control arm, or more commonly, a worn control arm bushing, will make itself known through distinct sounds and changes in how your vehicle drives.

• Clunking or Knocking Noises: This is the most common symptom. You'll hear a solid "clunk" or knocking sound from the rear of the car, especially when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven pavement. This sound is caused by excess movement in the worn bushing, allowing metal parts to contact each other.
• Wandering or Vague Steering: The vehicle may feel "loose" or unstable, especially when changing lanes or cornering. You might feel like you have to constantly make small steering corrections to keep the car straight. On vehicles with worn rear control arms, it can feel like the rear end is trying to steer the car, particularly when accelerating out of a turn.
• Uneven Tire Wear: A worn control arm bushing can throw off the rear wheel alignment, causing the inside or outside edge of the rear tires to wear down much faster than the rest of the tread.
• Vibrations: As the bushings lose their ability to absorb road impacts, you may feel vibrations in the seat or floor, particularly at higher speeds.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there are no widespread recalls specifically for the lower control arms on the 2000-2009 models, it's worth noting a related recall for a different suspension component on later models.

• NHTSA Campaign Number 20V072000: This recall affects 2013-2018 Ford Taurus, Flex, and Lincoln MKT vehicles. It concerns the rear suspension toe links, which could fracture and cause a sudden change in handling. While this does not apply to the years in this guide, it highlights that the multi-link rear suspension on these platforms can be a point of failure.
• Ford Freestyle/Taurus X Clunking: Owners of the Ford Freestyle and its successor, the Taurus X, frequently report clunking and rattling noises from the rear suspension. This is often traced back to worn sway bar links, strut mounts, or control arm bushings.
🎬 See this Ford Freestyle rear suspension repair walkthrough

Buying a Used Suspension Control Arm

A recycled OEM control arm can be a cost-effective and reliable alternative to a new part, especially when compared to cheap, unproven aftermarket options. Here’s what to look for:

• Inspect the Bushings: The rubber bushings are the most common failure point. Look for any signs of cracking, tearing, dry rot, or separation of the rubber from the metal sleeve. If the rubber is compromised, the arm is not a good purchase, as replacing the bushings can be difficult without a press.
• Check for Bending or Damage: Visually inspect the arm from all angles. Ensure it is straight and free of any bends, cracks, or signs of heavy impact. A bent control arm, even slightly, will make alignment impossible and is unsafe.
• Verify Part Numbers and Vehicle Platform: Double-check that the part number matches your vehicle's platform (D186 for early Taurus/Sable, D3 for Five Hundred/Freestyle family). Part numbers like 1F1Z-5500-AA are for the D186 platform, while 5F9Z-5500-AA and its successor 8G1Z-5500-A are for the D3 platform.
• Mileage Consideration: While there's no exact mileage for failure, bushings typically show significant wear after 100,000 miles. A used arm from a lower-mileage vehicle is always preferable. Ask the seller for the mileage of the donor vehicle if possible.

Replacement Overview & Special Procedures

Replacing a rear control arm is a feasible DIY project for someone with mechanical experience and the right tools. However, there are critical steps that must be followed.

• The Cam Bolt Kit: The inner mounting point of the lower control arm on many of these vehicles uses an eccentric bolt, also known as a cam bolt. This bolt allows for fine adjustments to the wheel's camber and toe during an alignment. It is crucial to mark the position of this bolt before removal to get the alignment close for the drive to the alignment shop. These bolts are often seized with rust and may need to be cut out and replaced. It's wise to purchase a new cam bolt kit before starting the job.
🎬 Watch: How cam bolts work and adjust camber
• Loading the Suspension: The final tightening of the control arm bolts MUST be done with the full weight of the vehicle on the suspension. You can achieve this by lowering the car onto ramps or by using a floor jack to lift the wheel knuckle, compressing the spring to its normal ride height. Tightening the bolts with the suspension hanging in the air will preload the rubber bushings, causing them to tear and fail very quickly.
• Torque Specs: Using a torque wrench is critical for suspension work. While specs can vary slightly by exact model and arm, general values for the D3 platform are:
  • Control arm to subframe (cam bolt): ~81 ft-lbs
  • Control arm to knuckle: ~77-110 ft-lbs
  Always verify the correct torque specs for your specific year and model.

Cost to Replace a Rear Control Arm

Prices can vary based on your location, vehicle, and whether you do the work yourself. The following is an estimated cost breakdown for a single rear lower control arm replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions