Fixing Rear Knocking in Your 2003-2012 Saab 9-3 & 2006-2010 Cadillac BLS: A Guide to the Rear Toe Arm

Vehicle Fitment and Important Warnings

This specific rear toe control arm fits all Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) versions of the 2003-2012 Saab 9-3 and the 2006-2010 Cadillac BLS. The same part is used for both the driver's (left) and passenger's (right) side. It connects the rear subframe to the wheel knuckle and is adjustable on the inner end to set the rear toe alignment.

Cadillac BLS: The European Sibling

Owners in North America may not be familiar with the Cadillac BLS. This vehicle was a re-badged version of the Saab 9-3, built in the same factory in Sweden and sold primarily in Europe, Mexico, and other international markets. It was never officially sold in the United States or Canada. For the purposes of this repair, all suspension components, including this rear toe arm, are identical to its Saab 9-3 counterpart.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Rear Toe Arm

The bushings and ball joints in the toe arm wear out over time, leading to excessive play. When this happens, you will likely notice one or more of the following symptoms:

• Knocking or Clunking Noises: This is the most common symptom. You may hear a distinct clunk or knock from the rear of the car, especially when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven pavement.
• Unstable or Wandering Rear End: The vehicle may feel loose or unstable from the rear, especially at highway speeds or during cornering. It might feel like the rear of the car wants to steer on its own.
• Uneven Rear Tire Wear: A bad toe arm allows the alignment to shift constantly, which can cause rapid and uneven wear on the inside or outside edges of the rear tires.
• Poor Handling and Steering Response: The car may not feel as crisp or responsive to steering inputs. You might find yourself making constant small corrections to the steering wheel to keep the car tracking straight.

Buying a Used Rear Toe Arm: What to Check

While new aftermarket toe arms are relatively inexpensive, a high-quality, low-mileage used OEM part can be a good option. Here’s what to inspect before buying:

1. Inspect the Bushings: This is the most critical check. The rubber bushings at both ends should be firm, intact, and free of cracks, tears, or signs of dry rot. Squeeze them and try to move the inner metal sleeve with your fingers. There should be no significant play or looseness. If the rubber is soft, torn, or soaked in oil, the part is no good.
2. Check for Bends and Damage: Look down the length of the arm to ensure it is perfectly straight. Any bend, no matter how slight, will make proper alignment impossible. Check for deep corrosion, cracks, or signs of impact damage.
3. Verify Compatibility: Double-check that the part came from a Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) model, not an XWD model.

Replacement Overview & Difficulty

• Difficulty Rating: 3/5 (Moderate)
• Time to Replace: 1.0 - 1.5 hours per side

Replacing the rear toe arm is a bolt-on procedure that a skilled DIY mechanic can perform. The biggest challenge is often dealing with rusted bolts, particularly the inner eccentric bolt that adjusts the alignment. Access can be tight, but the job does not require dropping the subframe.

Required Tools

• 18mm and 21mm sockets and wrenches
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil (for rusted bolts)
• Propane or MAP gas torch (in case of severely seized bolts)
• Paint marker or chalk

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Safely raise and support the rear of the vehicle and remove the wheel.
2. Locate the toe arm. It is the thinnest of the rear control arms, running horizontally from the subframe to the bottom-rear of the wheel knuckle.
3. Using a paint marker, mark the position of the inner eccentric bolt and washer relative to the subframe. This will help you get the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
4. Liberally apply penetrating oil to the inner and outer bolt threads and nuts.
5. Loosen and remove the outer bolt connecting the arm to the wheel knuckle.
6. Loosen and remove the inner eccentric bolt and nut. You may need a breaker bar. If the nut is seized, applying heat with a torch may be necessary.
7. Remove the old toe arm. You may need a pry bar to pop it out of its mounts.
8. Install the new arm, inserting the bolts but not tightening them fully.
9. Align the mark on your eccentric washer with the mark you made on the subframe.
10. With the suspension supporting the vehicle's weight (using a jack under the knuckle to simulate ride height), torque the bolts to specification. This prevents premature bushing failure. The inner bolt torque is typically around 55 ft-lbs (75 Nm) plus an additional 90 degrees of rotation, and the outer bolt is higher. Always consult a service manual for exact specs.
11. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle.

Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs

There are no specific NHTSA recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for the rear toe arm on the 2003-2012 Saab 9-3 or the Cadillac BLS. However, other GM vehicles from the same era, like the Cadillac SRX and CTS, were recalled for issues with rear toe links loosening or failing, which could lead to a loss of vehicle control. This highlights the critical safety function of this part.

Cost to Replace a Rear Toe Arm

Prices can vary based on location and the parts chosen. The following is an estimate:

Technical Specifications & Part Numbers

This part is interchangeable between the left and right sides.

• Common Names: Rear Toe Arm, Rear Toe Link, Rear Cross Stay
• Known OEM Part Numbers: 13105744, 13204115, 13230274, 32021925 (Saab); 51748740, 51783009, 51803162 (Fiat/GM)
• Adjustment Hardware: The eccentric bolt, washer, and nut for adjustment are often sold as a separate kit (Part #93422972). It is highly recommended to replace this hardware if the old bolts are corroded.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)