2010-2013 Suzuki Kizashi Rear Stub Axle: FWD vs. AWD and Failure Diagnosis
This guide clarifies the critical difference between Front-Wheel Drive and All-Wheel Drive rear stub axles (knuckles) and details how to diagnose failures.
- The single most critical fact is that rear knuckles for FWD and AWD models are NOT interchangeable. Part number 46150-57L00 is for FWD only.
- Failure is almost always due to impact damage (bending the knuckle) or a worn-out wheel bearing housed within it, not the knuckle itself wearing out.
- When buying a used knuckle, prioritize inspecting the wheel bearing bore for scoring and verifying it came from a vehicle with the same drivetrain.
- A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after replacing a rear knuckle to prevent unsafe handling and rapid tire wear.
Compatibility: FWD vs. AWD Models
Warning: The rear stub axle/knuckle for Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) 2010-2013 Suzuki Kizashi models are NOT interchangeable. The OEM part number 46150-57L00 is for the rear left (driver's side) on FWD models only. The AWD version requires a different knuckle with an opening for the rear drive axle to pass through. Always verify the drivetrain of the donor vehicle before purchasing a used part.
Symptoms of a Bad Rear Stub Axle
A stub axle is a solid piece of cast iron or aluminum and does not have moving parts, so it doesn't 'fail' in the typical sense. Instead, problems arise from damage or from the failure of parts connected to it, like the wheel bearing it houses.
- Vehicle Pulling or Drifting: If the knuckle is bent from hitting a curb or a major pothole, it will alter the wheel alignment and cause the car to pull to one side.
- Uneven Tire Wear: A bent knuckle directly impacts suspension geometry, leading to rapid and uneven wear on the inner or outer edge of the tire.
- Grinding or Rumbling Noise: This is the most common symptom, but it's usually caused by a worn-out wheel bearing located inside the knuckle, not the knuckle itself. The noise is often most noticeable when turning or driving at speeds above 15 mph.
- Wheel Wobble or Looseness: If you can physically move the top and bottom of the wheel when the car is jacked up, it indicates excessive play, almost always due to a bad wheel bearing. In extreme cases, this can be felt as a vibration while driving.
- Clunking or Knocking Sounds: While often related to other suspension parts like sway bar links or shocks, a severely damaged knuckle or a completely failed bearing can cause clunking noises.
Buying a Used Stub Axle: What to Inspect
Since new aftermarket knuckles are generally not available, a quality used OEM part is often the best choice. A thorough inspection is crucial before buying.
- Verify Compatibility: First and foremost, confirm the part is from a vehicle with the same drivetrain (FWD or AWD) as yours. Check the part number if possible; 46150-57L00 is for the FWD rear left.
- Inspect the Bearing Bore: Look inside the large hole where the wheel bearing/hub assembly mounts. It should be smooth and free of deep scratches, scoring, or rust pitting. A damaged bore means the new bearing won't sit correctly, leading to premature failure.
- Check for Cracks and Bends: Clean the part and inspect it carefully for any hairline cracks, especially around the mounting bosses for the control arms and brake caliper. Use a straightedge to check for any obvious bends or warping from accident damage.
- Examine Threaded Holes: Check all threaded holes where the brake caliper, hub assembly, and sensor brackets mount. Ensure the threads are clean and not stripped or cross-threaded. Damaged threads can make installation impossible or unsafe.
- Look for Corrosion: Pay close attention to vehicles from salt-belt regions. A Suzuki Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) specifically reminds technicians to inspect for rust damage on suspension components. Heavy rust can weaken the part and make removing old bolts or installing new ones very difficult.
Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls
While there are no recalls directly for the rear stub axle on the 2010-2013 Kizashi, several other issues are relevant to this area of the vehicle:
- Suspension Corrosion (TSB SUZ_016008): Suzuki issued a bulletin reminding dealers to inspect for rust on suspension parts in areas where road salt is used. This makes inspecting a used knuckle for severe rust especially important.
- Leaking Rear Shocks: Some owners have reported issues with the factory rear shocks leaking fluid, leading to clunking noises and poor ride quality. When you are working on the rear suspension, it's a good time to inspect the shocks for any signs of leakage.
- Major Recalls: The Kizashi has several significant recalls, including one for fuel tanks that can crack due to spiders building webs in a vent line (NHTSA 19V343) and another for a faulty passenger seat sensor that could disable the airbag. While unrelated to the knuckle, it's wise for any owner to check if these have been performed on their vehicle.
Replacement Difficulty and Cost
Replacing the rear knuckle is a significant job that requires disassembly of the entire rear wheel, brake, and hub assembly, as well as multiple suspension arms.
- Installation Difficulty: 4 out of 5. This job is for experienced DIY mechanics with a robust set of tools.
- Special Procedures: Rusted bolts are common, so penetrating oil and a breaker bar are highly recommended. After replacement, a full four-wheel alignment is mandatory to correct the suspension geometry and prevent tire damage.
Pro Tip: Since the wheel bearing/hub assembly must be removed to replace the knuckle, it is highly recommended to install a new hub assembly at the same time. 🎬 Watch this video on removing the hub assembly. This prevents having to do the job twice if the old bearing fails soon after.
Cost Breakdown
| Part or Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New OEM Knuckle (FWD) | $350 - $500+ |
| New Aftermarket Knuckle | Not Generally Available |
| Used OEM Knuckle | $90 - $220 |
| Shop Labor | $250 - $500 |
| Wheel Alignment | $100 - $200 |
| Total Professional Replacement (Used Part) | $440 - $920 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use a rear knuckle from an AWD Kizashi on my FWD model?
No, you cannot. The parts are physically different and not interchangeable. The AWD knuckle is designed to accommodate a rear drive axle, while the FWD version is not. Using the wrong part will make assembly impossible.
Is a noisy wheel bearing the same as a bad stub axle?
No. The wheel bearing is a separate, replaceable part that is housed inside the stub axle/knuckle. A rumbling or grinding noise is almost always the bearing. However, if a bearing fails catastrophically, it can damage the knuckle's inner surface (bore), requiring the replacement of both parts.
Do I need an alignment after replacing a rear knuckle?
Yes, a four-wheel alignment is absolutely required. The knuckle is the central mounting point for multiple suspension arms that control camber and toe angles. Skipping the alignment will result in poor handling and destroy your tires very quickly.
Should I replace the wheel bearing at the same time as the knuckle?
Yes, it is strongly recommended. The labor to access the knuckle requires removing the old wheel bearing/hub assembly. Installing a new hub assembly at this stage adds very little extra labor cost and ensures the entire assembly is fresh, preventing a future failure.
Helpful Videos
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 46150-57L00 4615057L00
Fits Rear Left (Driver's Side) on Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) models only.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
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