1990-2000 Eclipse, Talon, Sebring, Avenger & Laser Steering Rack: Solving Leaks, Noises, and Compatibility

Critical Compatibility Warnings: Read Before Buying

This steering rack was used across a wide range of vehicles built on shared platforms, but there are critical differences between models. Mismatched parts can lead to installation failure, steering problems, or fluid leaks. Always verify your vehicle's exact specifications (drivetrain, engine, body style) and match OEM part numbers when possible.

Chrysler Sebring & Dodge Avenger (1995-2000)

• Coupe Models ONLY: This steering rack fits the 2-door Coupe versions of the Sebring and Avenger.
• Does NOT Fit Convertible or Sedan: The Sebring Convertible and Sedan models were based on a different Chrysler platform (the Chrysler Cirrus) and use a completely different steering rack. Do not attempt to use this part on a convertible or sedan.

Mitsubishi Eclipse & Eagle Talon (1990-1999)

Compatibility for the Eclipse and Talon is complex, with conflicting information even among experienced owners. The primary differences are between Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) vs. All-Wheel Drive (AWD) and Turbo vs. Non-Turbo (NT) models.

• FWD vs. AWD: This is the most debated topic. Some owners have successfully installed FWD racks on AWD cars, claiming they are identical. However, other sources state they are different. The AWD subframe is designed to position the steering rack higher to provide clearance for the transfer case. This may require using an AWD-specific steering column U-joint and knuckles for proper geometry. Due to this risk, it is safest to source a rack that is explicitly listed for your vehicle's drivetrain (FWD or AWD).
• Turbo vs. Non-Turbo (2G Models): For 1995-1999 models, some evidence suggests that the power steering fluid line ports may be on different sides of the rack for turbo and non-turbo models. This would make them incompatible without modifying the fluid lines.
• Manual vs. Automatic Transmission (Turbo Models): Some fitment data indicates that on turbo models, the rack may differ between manual and automatic transmissions. This is potentially due to clearance issues with the larger automatic transmission housing.

Symptoms of a Failing Steering Rack

Steering rack failure can manifest through noises, changes in steering feel, or visible leaks. Often, you will experience a combination of these symptoms.

Noises

• Grinding, Whining, or Creaking: A grinding or whining noise when you turn the steering wheel, especially at low speeds or when parked, is a classic sign of a failing rack. This is often caused by a lack of lubrication or worn internal components. A whining or squealing that changes pitch as you turn the wheel often points to a struggling power steering pump, usually due to low or contaminated fluid from a leaking rack.
• Clunking or Knocking: A clunk, thud, or knocking sound when turning can indicate excessive play from worn internal gears or loose mounting bushings.

Steering Feel

• Stiff or Heavy Steering: If turning the wheel suddenly requires much more effort, especially at low speeds, it's a sign of lost power assist. This can be caused by an internal leak in the rack's seals or a lack of fluid.
• Loose Steering or "Dead Spot": A feeling of excessive play in the steering wheel, where small movements don't cause the car to change direction, is a common symptom. This is often described as a "dead spot" in the center.
• Wandering or Pulling: The vehicle may wander on the road, requiring constant small corrections to keep it driving straight. This can also feel like the car is pulling to one side.
• Steering Wheel Doesn't Return to Center: After making a turn, the steering wheel should naturally start to return to the straight-ahead position. If you have to manually turn it back to center every time, it can indicate binding inside the rack.

Visual Signs & Smells

• Fluid Leaks: This is the most common symptom. Look for puddles of red, pink, or dark brown fluid under the front of your car. A definitive sign of failure is fluid leaking from the rubber boots (bellows) at either end of the steering rack. The boots should be dry; any fluid inside means the internal seals have failed.
• Burnt Smell: A smell of burnt oil or burnt sugar can occur when the power steering fluid gets extremely hot due to low levels or system failure. This indicates the fluid has broken down and is no longer protecting the system.

Diagnosing the Problem

Checking the Power Steering Fluid

A simple fluid check can tell you a lot about the health of your steering system. The power steering reservoir is typically a white or yellow plastic container under the hood with a black cap, often labeled "Power Steering Fluid."

1. Check the Level: With the engine off, remove the cap and check the dipstick. The fluid level should be between the 'MIN' and 'MAX' or 'COLD' and 'HOT' lines. Low fluid is a sure sign of a leak somewhere in the system.
2. Inspect the Color: New power steering fluid is typically clear, red, or pink. If the fluid is dark brown or black, it is old, contaminated with debris, and needs to be flushed.
3. Check for Contamination: If the fluid looks milky or foamy, it means air has entered the system, likely through a leak. If you see shiny metal particles, it indicates severe internal wear of the pump or rack.
4. Smell the Fluid: If the fluid has a strong burnt odor, it has overheated and lost its lubricating properties.

Buying a Used Steering Gear Poppet Rack

A quality used OEM steering rack from a low-mileage vehicle can be a reliable and cost-effective alternative to expensive new parts or sometimes unreliable remanufactured units. Here’s what to look for:

• Verify Compatibility: This is the most important step. Double-check that the donor vehicle is an exact match for your car's drivetrain (FWD/AWD), engine (Turbo/NT), and body style (Coupe). Get the OEM part number if possible.
• Inspect the Boots: Check the rubber boots at each end of the rack. While they are replaceable, torn or cracked boots could mean that water and dirt have entered the rack, causing internal corrosion and wear. A rack with intact boots is a much safer bet.
• Check for Leaks: Look for any signs of wetness or caked-on grime around the fluid line ports and especially at the ends of the rack near the boots. The area should be dry.
• Inspect the Input Shaft: Look at the splined input shaft where the steering column connects. The splines should be clean and sharp, not twisted, worn, or damaged.
• Check the Tie Rods: The rack assembly includes the inner tie rods. Grab them and try to move them in and out of the rack. There should be no clunking or excessive play. While you will be replacing the outer tie rod ends, the condition of the inner rods is a good indicator of the rack's overall wear.
• Mileage and Source: Ask for the mileage of the donor vehicle. A rack from a car with under 100,000 miles is preferable. Failures are often due to age and seal degradation, not just mileage, but lower mileage is always better.

Rebuild vs. Replace

While seal kits are available, rebuilding a steering rack is not recommended for most DIY mechanics. The process requires special tools to properly install the internal seals without damaging them, and an improperly rebuilt rack will leak. Considering the high labor cost to install and remove the rack, it is more reliable to replace the entire unit with a good used OEM part or a quality remanufactured assembly. Remanufactured racks can be a good option, but have a higher initial failure rate than new parts, often due to seal leaks.

Replacement Overview & Related Parts

Replacing the steering rack is an advanced DIY job that typically takes 4-6 hours. Access is very tight, and on AWD models, it may require removing the exhaust downpipe and transfer case.

Parts to Replace at the Same Time:

• Outer Tie Rod Ends: These connect the steering rack to the wheels and should always be replaced with the rack.
• Power Steering Fluid: The entire system should be flushed to remove old, contaminated fluid that could damage the replacement rack. Use a fluid that meets the manufacturer's specifications.
• Power Steering Hoses: Inspect the high-pressure and return hoses for cracks, swelling, or leaks. Now is the easiest time to replace them.

Key Installation Steps & Torque Specs

• Center the Rack: Before installation, turn the new rack's input shaft from lock to lock, counting the turns. Then turn it back exactly half that amount to ensure it is perfectly centered.
• Steering Column Connection: Getting the steering column U-joint to slide onto the rack's input shaft can be difficult. Some mechanics recommend slightly loosening the steering column mounting bolts inside the cabin to gain extra play.
• Bleed the System: After installation and filling with fluid, you must bleed air from the system. With the front wheels off the ground, slowly turn the steering wheel from full lock to full lock several times with the engine off, then repeat with the engine on, checking and topping off the fluid level until no more bubbles appear in the reservoir.
• Key Torque Specs (for Eclipse/Talon, verify for your model):
  • Steering Rack Mounting Bolts: 51 ft-lbs (70 Nm)
  • Tie Rod End Castle Nut: 17-25 ft-lbs (23-34 Nm)
  • Steering Column Pinch Bolt: 13 ft-lbs (18 Nm)
  • Power Steering Line Fittings: ~11 ft-lbs (15 Nm) - Be careful not to overtighten.

Cost of Replacement

The cost to replace a steering rack can vary significantly based on the parts chosen and local labor rates.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)