1993-1997 Volvo 850 Steering Column: Ignition Switch Failure, Loose Steering, and Replacement

Symptoms of a Failing Volvo 850 Steering Column

Problems with the steering column assembly on the Volvo 850 typically fall into two categories: electrical issues stemming from the ignition switch, and mechanical issues related to looseness or noise in the column itself.

Electrical Problems (Ignition Switch Failure)

The single most common failure on this assembly is the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Since it's mounted directly to the column, its symptoms are often associated with the column itself. You may notice:

• Intermittent Electrical Functions: The radio, windows, turn signals, or dashboard lights may suddenly stop working. Often, wiggling the key in the ignition will make them work again temporarily.
• Starting Issues: The car may crank but fail to start, or it may start and then immediately stall.
• Engine Stalling While Driving: In severe cases, a faulty switch can cut power to the fuel and ignition systems, causing the engine to stall, which is a significant safety hazard.
• Inability to Shift from Park: The switch provides power to the shift lock solenoid, and a failure can leave your car stuck in Park.
• Key Feels Stuck or Hard to Turn: While this can also be the lock cylinder, resistance or a failure for the key to spring back from the 'start' position often points to a problem with the switch.

Mechanical Wear and Looseness

• Loose or Wobbly Steering Wheel: A feeling of excessive play or looseness in the steering wheel can be caused by worn universal joints (U-joints) in the steering shaft. This makes the car feel disconnected from the road and requires constant small corrections to drive straight.
• Clunking or Clicking Noises: A metallic clunk, click, or pop when turning the steering wheel, especially at low speeds, is a classic sign of a worn-out U-joint.
• Stiff or Binding Steering: The steering may feel tight or catch in certain spots as you turn the wheel, indicating a seized bearing in a U-joint.
• Tilt Adjustment Fails: The lever may no longer lock the steering wheel's tilt or telescoping position securely, allowing the wheel to move up and down or in and out while driving.

Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs

While no major recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the NHTSA specifically target the entire steering column assembly for the 1993-1997 Volvo 850, the failure of the electrical ignition switch is a widely documented and known weak point for this generation of Volvo.

• Ignition Switch Failure: This is the most prevalent issue. The internal contacts wear out over time, leading to intermittent power loss to various circuits. Symptoms often appear gradually and worsen, starting with needing to wiggle the key and progressing to a no-start or stalling condition.
• Cracked Column Covers: The plastic upper and lower covers around the steering column can become brittle and crack, especially around the screw mounting points. This is often caused by improper removal technique or overtightening the screws during previous repairs.

Buying a Used Steering Column: What to Inspect

A used OEM steering column is often the only practical replacement option, as new assemblies are typically no longer available. Careful inspection is key to getting a good part.

1. Ignition Lock & Key: CRITICAL CHECK: The most important thing to verify is whether the column includes the ignition lock cylinder and a matching, functional key. If it does not, you will have to swap your original lock cylinder, which can be a difficult process. A column with a matching key is far more valuable and simplifies the installation.
2. Check the U-Joints: Hold the main column housing steady and try to rotate the input and output shafts. Feel for any play, looseness, or notchiness in the universal joints. They should move smoothly with no clicking or binding. Any roughness indicates the U-joints are worn.
3. Test the Tilt/Telescope Mechanism: Operate the adjustment lever. It should move smoothly and lock the column firmly in place. If you can still move the column up/down or in/out when it's locked, the mechanism is worn.
4. Inspect the Plastic Covers: Check the upper and lower plastic shrouds for cracks, especially at the mounting screw holes. While not a functional problem, intact covers are a sign of a well-cared-for part.
5. Examine Electrical Connectors: Look at the wiring harnesses for the ignition switch, turn signal stalk, and wiper stalk. Ensure the connectors are not cracked, and the wires are not frayed or damaged.

Cost Comparison: New vs. Used

Replacing the entire steering column assembly involves different costs depending on the source of the part.

Replacement Guide Overview (Difficulty: 3/5)

Replacing the entire steering column is a moderately difficult job that can be done by a skilled DIY mechanic. The primary challenges are safely handling the airbag and accessing the bolts and connectors. The estimated time is 2-3 hours.

Basic Steps:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the two Torx screws from the back of the steering wheel to release the airbag module. Carefully disconnect its electrical connector and set it aside facing up.
3. Remove the large center bolt holding the steering wheel. Mark the wheel's position relative to the shaft before removal.
4. Remove the upper and lower plastic steering column covers (shrouds).
5. Disconnect the various electrical connectors for the ignition switch, turn signal stalk, wiper stalk, and clock spring.
6. Unbolt the steering column from the dashboard support.
7. Unbolt the lower steering shaft U-joint from the steering rack input shaft, which is located in the driver's footwell near the firewall.
8. Carefully maneuver the entire assembly out of the vehicle.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. The steering wheel center bolt should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs (40 Nm).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)