1986-1989 Toyota Supra Steering Column: Play, Noises, and Compatibility Explained

Symptoms of a Failing Steering Column

Problems with the MK3 Supra's steering column assembly often manifest as looseness, strange noises, or a change in steering feel. The most common culprit is wear in the universal joints (U-joints) of the intermediate shaft.

• Clunking or Popping Noises: A distinct 'clunk' or 'pop' felt and heard when turning the wheel, especially when stationary or at low speeds, is a classic sign of a worn-out U-joint in the intermediate shaft. This happens as the worn joint moves excessively before engaging.

• Steering Play or Looseness: A feeling that the steering wheel can be turned slightly without any response from the front wheels is often caused by worn U-joints or worn splines on the shafts. This creates a disconnected and imprecise steering feel, requiring constant corrections to keep the car straight.

• Binding or Stiff Steering: If the steering feels tight in some spots and loose in others as you turn the wheel, it can indicate a U-joint is beginning to seize from rust or lack of lubrication. This requires uneven effort to turn the wheel.

• Squeaking from the Column: A high-pitched squeak or chirp when adjusting the tilt or simply turning the wheel can be caused by dry or worn plastic bushings, felt pads, or the horn contact ring inside the main column assembly in the cabin.

• Failure of Tilt Adjustment: On some cars, the gears for the tilt mechanism can wear out, causing the steering wheel to no longer lock into its adjusted position. This is a significant safety issue as the wheel can drop unexpectedly.

Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs

As of this writing, there are no specific recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) for the steering column, shafts, or rack on the 1986-1989 Toyota Supra. Most issues are related to age and wear, particularly on the intermediate shaft U-joints.

Compatibility: The TEMS and Speed-Sensitive Steering Trap

The biggest challenge when sourcing a steering column for a MK3 Supra is ensuring compatibility with the vehicle's electronic options. Toyota used different columns and shafts depending on the year and trim.

• 1986.5-1988 Models: The main distinction is between cars with and without the Toyota Electronically Modulated Suspension (TEMS). Columns for TEMS-equipped cars have different wiring and potentially different mounting points for the associated electronics.
• 1989 Models: This year is more complex. Some 1989 models came with a new speed-sensitive power steering system, which used an electronically controlled solenoid on the steering rack to vary assist. This system requires a specific compatible steering column. The initial buyer warnings are correct: a 1989 model may require a specific column if it has both TEMS and speed-sensitive steering.

Buying a Used 1986-1989 Supra Steering Column

Due to the age of these vehicles, new OEM steering column components are often discontinued or extremely expensive. A quality used OEM assembly is typically the most practical and cost-effective solution.

What to Physically Inspect

1. Check the U-Joints: This is the most critical inspection. Hold the intermediate shaft and try to twist it while holding the other end. There should be no perceptible play, notchiness, or binding in the universal joints. Any looseness means the joint is worn and will cause clunking and sloppy steering.

2. Inspect the Splines: Check the splined ends of all shafts. They should be clean, sharp, and free of rust or stripping. Damaged splines can prevent a secure connection to the steering wheel and steering rack.

3. Test the Tilt/Telescope Mechanism: If possible, operate the tilt and telescope lever. The column should move smoothly and lock firmly in place. If it feels loose or won't lock, the internal mechanism is worn.

4. Examine the Wiring: Inspect all electrical connectors and wires for cuts, brittleness, or damage. This includes the ignition switch, turn signal/wiper stalks, and any TEMS-related wiring. Repairing damaged wiring can be difficult.

5. Look for Collision Damage: Check if the main column is bent or if the collapsible section is compressed. Any signs of damage from an accident mean the column should be rejected, as it is a critical safety component.

Replacement Overview

Replacing the steering column assembly is a moderately difficult job that can be performed by an experienced DIY mechanic. The process involves working inside the cabin under the dashboard and in the engine bay.

Difficulty: 3 out of 5

Key Steps (Simplified):

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel. A steering wheel puller may be required if it's stuck. Ensure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead before removal.
3. Remove the plastic column surrounds, lower dash panels, and any metal knee bolsters.
4. Disconnect all electrical connectors to the column (ignition, stalks, etc.).
5. In the engine bay, unbolt the intermediate shaft from the steering rack input shaft. Mark its orientation first to ensure correct alignment upon reinstallation.
6. Unbolt the firewall plate that seals the cabin pass-through.
7. Inside the cabin, unbolt the two main bolts holding the column assembly to the dash support brace.
8. Carefully maneuver the entire assembly out of the vehicle.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Pay close attention to aligning the steering shaft with the rack.

Cost Comparison

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)