1990-1994 Eclipse, Talon, & Laser Steering Column: Diagnosing Looseness and FWD/AWD Differences

Symptoms of a Failing Steering Column

Failures in the steering columns of the 1990-1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Chrysler Laser are most often related to its moving parts and attached components rather than the main shaft itself. Here are the most common symptoms owners experience:

• Loose or Wobbly Steering Wheel: This is the most frequently reported issue. The wheel may feel like it has excessive play, moving up and down or side-to-side without affecting the direction of the car. This is often caused by bolts inside the column housing working themselves loose over time or by worn internal bearings.
• Tilt Mechanism Failure: The lever for the tilt adjustment may break, or the mechanism may fail to lock the steering wheel in the desired position. This can cause the wheel to suddenly drop or move while driving, creating a significant safety hazard.
• Grinding or Clicking Noises: Audible grinding, clicking, or squeaking sounds when turning the steering wheel often point to failing bearings within the column. These bearings can corrode or become contaminated with dirt, leading to rough operation.
• Ignition and Electrical Problems: Since the column houses the ignition lock cylinder and various switches, problems like the key not turning, the car failing to start, or malfunctioning turn signals/wipers can sometimes be traced back to the column assembly. A binding ignition lock is a known issue for these models.

Vehicle and Part Compatibility: The Critical FWD vs. AWD Difference

All four first-generation (1G) DSM cars—the Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Chrysler Laser, and Plymouth Laser—share steering column designs. However, there is one crucial difference you must be aware of before purchasing a replacement.

The initial buyer warnings about "16-inch wheels" are generally a reference to the turbo models (GST, TSi) which came with larger wheels and always included a tilt steering column. Base models with smaller wheels may have had a non-tilt column. The OEM part numbers MB532678 and MB673307 refer to the common tilt-steering version for FWD models. Always confirm your vehicle's drivetrain (FWD or AWD) before ordering a part.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

Given the age of these vehicles, most major safety issues have been addressed. A search of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database shows several recalls for the 1990-1994 model years, but none are directly related to the steering column's main structure. One recall was issued for the multi-function switch on the column, which could break and cause issues with lights and wipers. However, the most common problem reported by owners on forums like DSMTuners is the tendency for the internal bolts in the tilt-head assembly to loosen, causing the signature "wobbly column." This is not an official recall but a widely documented wear-and-tear issue.

Buying a Used Steering Column: What to Inspect

Since new OEM steering columns for these cars are long discontinued, a quality used part is the only practical option. A thorough inspection is critical to ensure you get a good one.

1. Check for Shaft Play: Grab the steering wheel input shaft and the lower output shaft. Try to move them up, down, and side-to-side. There should be no significant wobble or clunking. Any looseness indicates worn internal bearings or loose fasteners.
2. Test the Tilt Mechanism: If the tilt lever is present, operate it through its full range of motion. It should move smoothly and lock securely in each position without slipping.
3. Inspect the Ignition Housing: Check the area where the ignition lock cylinder mounts for any cracks or damage. A broken housing can cause ignition switch and starting problems.
4. Verify Wiring and Connectors: Carefully inspect all electrical pigtails and connectors for the ignition switch, multi-function switch, and clock spring. Ensure they are not cut, cracked, or corroded. Damaged wiring can be very difficult to repair.
5. Confirm FWD or AWD Application: This is the most important step. If possible, compare the used column to your old one, paying close attention to the length of the intermediate shaft that connects to the steering rack. As noted, AWD shafts are shorter.

Replacement Overview and Difficulty

Replacing the steering column is a moderately difficult job that requires patience and working in a tight space under the dashboard.

• Difficulty Rating: 4 out of 5
• Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
• DIY Feasible: Yes, for experienced mechanics. Novices may find it challenging.

The basic steps involve disconnecting the battery, removing the lower dash panels and knee bolster, unplugging all electrical connectors, unbolting the intermediate shaft from the steering rack, and finally unbolting the column's mounting brackets from the dashboard support. Installation is the reverse, but care must be taken to properly align the intermediate shaft with the steering rack spline. Loosening the column mounting bolts can provide extra play to help slide the U-joint onto the rack's input shaft.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)