1986-1991 Ford Aerostar Steering Column: Fixing Looseness, Tilt Failure, and Ignition Problems

Symptoms of a Failing Aerostar Steering Column

Problems with the steering column on an early Ford Aerostar often fall into three categories: physical looseness, electrical faults, or ignition system failure. Paying attention to the specific symptom is the first step in a successful diagnosis.

1. Excessive Looseness or Play in the Steering Wheel

This is one of the most common complaints for this generation of Ford trucks and vans. The looseness is not typically in the steering gear itself, but within the column's tilt mechanism. You may be able to move the entire steering wheel up, down, and side-to-side, even when the tilt lever is locked. This is usually caused by worn-out bearings or mounting brackets inside the upper portion of the column. While it may start as a minor annoyance, it is a serious safety issue that affects vehicle control and should be addressed immediately.

2. Ignition and Starting Problems

If you turn the key and nothing happens, or you can't turn the key at all, the problem may be inside the steering column. A small metal rod, called the ignition actuator rod, connects the key lock cylinder to the electronic ignition switch further down the column. This rod is a known weak point and can bend or break, leaving you unable to start the engine or, in some cases, shut it off. You might feel a lack of resistance or a "mushy" feeling when turning the key.

3. Grinding, Clicking, or Squeaking Noises When Turning

Audible noises from the steering column area often point to failing internal components. A grinding or clicking sound can indicate that the bearings supporting the steering shaft are worn out and failing. A squeaking noise could be a dry bearing or the plastic trim pieces rubbing together. A specific issue noted in a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB #96719) for the 1990 Aerostar is a "rapping or clanging noise" when turning, indicating an internal column issue.

4. Tilt Mechanism Won't Lock

If you adjust the tilt position of your steering wheel and it won't lock firmly into place, the internal locking mechanism or pins have likely failed. This will cause the steering wheel to move up and down freely while driving, which is extremely dangerous.

5. Malfunctioning Column-Mounted Controls

The turn signals, wipers, cruise control buttons, and headlight high-beam switch are all routed through the steering column. If these components work intermittently or not at all, it can be due to a failed switch or, more commonly, damaged wiring inside the column that gets pinched or frayed from the tilting action over many years.

Buying a Used 1986-1991 Aerostar Steering Column

Since new steering columns for this van are no longer produced, a quality used OEM part is the only practical option for a complete replacement. Here’s what to look for to ensure you get a good one.

Critical Compatibility Checks

Not all 1986-1991 Aerostar columns are the same. You must match your original column exactly. Verify these four points before purchasing:

• Tilt vs. Fixed: Does your van have tilt steering? A tilt column will not work in a non-tilt van, and vice-versa, without significant modification.
• Transmission Type: Columns are different for automatic (column-shift) and manual (floor-shift) transmissions. Ensure the column you buy has the correct shift lever assembly or lack thereof.
• Cruise Control: Columns for vehicles with cruise control have different wiring and a different turn signal stalk than those without.
• Connectors: Always compare the electrical connectors on the donor column to your original. While they should be the same for this year range, running changes can occur.

Physical Inspection Checklist

When inspecting a used column in person or looking at detailed photos:

1. Test the Tilt Joint: Grab the top of the column where the steering wheel would mount and try to wiggle it. There should be no significant up-and-down or side-to-side play. This is the most common failure point, so be thorough.
2. Inspect the Ignition Switch Area: Look closely at the electronic ignition switch (mounted on the side of the column) and its wiring connector. Check for any signs of melting, discoloration, or brittle plastic, which could indicate overheating related to the 1996 recall.
3. Check the Shift Mechanism (Automatics): If it's a column-shift model, move the shift lever through its range. It should feel relatively firm, not loose and sloppy, which can indicate worn bushings.
4. Examine the Wiring: Look for any cut wires, cracked insulation, or damaged connectors. Pay special attention to the wiring that flexes when the column is tilted.
5. Turn the Shaft: The main steering shaft should rotate smoothly without any grinding or binding.

Replacement Overview and Difficulty

• Difficulty Rating: 3 out of 5 (Moderate)
• Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
• DIY Feasible: Yes, for an experienced DIY mechanic.

Replacing the steering column is an involved job that requires care, especially concerning the electrical connectors and alignment. The basic steps involve disconnecting the battery, removing the steering wheel (which requires a steering wheel puller), removing the plastic shrouds, disconnecting all electrical connectors and the shift cable, unbolting the column from the dashboard support, and unbolting the intermediate shaft in the engine bay. Installation is the reverse of removal. It is critical to ensure the steering wheel and front wheels are pointed straight ahead before you begin.

Cost Comparison

Pricing for a vehicle of this age is focused on used and component-level parts, as new complete assemblies are generally not available.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)