1989-1991 Suzuki Sidekick & 1990-1991 Geo Tracker Power Steering Pump Guide

Is This Guide for You?

This guide covers the power steering pump shared by the 1989-1991 Suzuki Sidekick and the 1990-1991 Geo Tracker (often listed as the Chevrolet Tracker). These vehicles were built on the same platform and used the same 1.6L engine, resulting in many interchangeable parts. This specific power steering pump is also found on models up to 1995, as well as the Asuna and Pontiac Sunrunner in the Canadian market, making used parts widely available.

Symptoms of a Failing Power Steering Pump

A failing power steering pump usually gives clear warning signs. Ignoring them can lead to a complete loss of power assist and potential damage to other steering components. Here’s what to look and listen for:

1. Whining or Groaning Noises

This is the most common symptom. You'll hear a distinct whining or groaning sound that rises and falls with engine speed (RPM). The noise will get significantly louder when you turn the steering wheel. This is caused by the pump struggling to move fluid, either due to low fluid levels, air in the system, or internal wear.

2. Stiff or Heavy Steering

If turning the steering wheel, especially at low speeds or when parking, suddenly requires a lot of muscle, your pump is likely not providing enough hydraulic pressure. You might also notice the steering feels jerky, inconsistent, or slow to respond. Some owners report the steering is extremely stiff on a cold start but loosens up after a minute as the fluid begins to circulate.

3. Squealing Noise on Startup

A loud squeal when you first start the vehicle, which may or may not go away after a moment, can be a sign of a failing pump. The failing pump can put extra drag on the accessory belt, causing it to slip and squeal. This noise can also happen during sharp turns.

4. Fluid Leaks

Look for puddles of reddish-brown fluid under the front of your vehicle. The power steering pump itself, or the high-pressure and low-pressure lines connected to it, can develop leaks over time. Always check the fluid level in the reservoir; if it's consistently low, you have a leak somewhere in the system.

5. Contaminated Fluid

Healthy power steering fluid is clear with a reddish or light amber tint. If you check the reservoir and the fluid looks foamy, bubbly, or has a burnt smell, it indicates a problem. Foaming means air is getting into the system, likely from a leak. If you see tiny, shiny metal flakes in the fluid, it's a sure sign that the internal components of the pump are grinding themselves apart and failure is imminent.

Diagnosing the Problem

Before you condemn the pump, run through these simple diagnostic steps:

1. Check the Fluid Level: The first and easiest check. A low fluid level will cause whining and stiff steering. If it's low, top it off with the correct fluid and see if the symptoms improve. If they do, you have a leak that needs to be found.
2. Inspect the Fluid Condition: As mentioned above, look for foam, discoloration, or metal particles.
3. Check the Belt: Make sure the accessory belt that drives the pump is tight and in good condition. A loose or worn belt can slip and cause squealing or a loss of power assist.
4. Inspect for Leaks: Clean the pump, hoses, and steering gear with a degreaser. Run the engine and have a helper turn the wheel back and forth while you look for the source of any fresh fluid leaks.

Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs

For the 1989-1991 Suzuki Sidekick and 1990-1991 Geo Tracker, there are no specific recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) issued by the NHTSA for the power steering pump. A recall (NHTSA 95V103007) was issued for front seat belt buckles on some 1990-1991 models, but it is unrelated to the steering system.

Buying a Used PS Pump/Motor

A used OEM power steering pump is an excellent, cost-effective choice for these vehicles. The original pumps are robust, and since they were used for many years (1989-1995), good-quality used units are readily available.

• Why Used OEM?: Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts are designed to fit perfectly and perform to factory specifications. For a critical hydraulic part like a power steering pump, the quality and tolerances of an OEM unit are often superior to cheap, new aftermarket alternatives. A low-mileage used OEM pump is often more reliable than a brand-new, unproven aftermarket part.
• What to Inspect: When buying a used pump, check for any signs of damage to the housing, such as cracks or heavy corrosion. Ensure the pulley shaft spins smoothly by hand with no grinding or excessive play. Check the threaded ports for the fluid lines to make sure they are not stripped or damaged.
• Mileage: While power steering pumps can last over 100,000 miles, mileage is a factor. Look for a pump from a vehicle with the lowest mileage possible. A pump from a vehicle under 150,000 miles is a good bet. However, the condition of the fluid that was in the system is just as important as mileage; a pump that ran on clean fluid will be in much better shape.
• Compatibility Check: The key OEM part numbers for this pump are 49100-56B00 and 49100-60A00. The common aftermarket replacement number is Cardone 21-5896. Use these numbers to confirm you are buying the correct part for your Sidekick or Tracker.

Rebuild vs. Replace

For the mechanically inclined, rebuilding the original pump is a viable option. Seal and bearing kits are available and are very inexpensive.

• Rebuilding: This involves completely disassembling the pump, cleaning all components, and replacing all seals, O-rings, and sometimes the main bearing. It requires patience and a clean workspace. The main benefit is cost, with rebuild kits often costing under $50.
• Replacing: Replacing the pump with a used OEM or a remanufactured unit is much faster and requires less specialized knowledge. Given the low cost of good used and remanufactured pumps, most owners and shops choose to replace the entire unit to save time and ensure reliability.

Cost Comparison

Prices can vary, but here is a general cost breakdown for a replacement power steering pump:

Replacement and Installation Tips

Replacing the power steering pump is a manageable DIY job for someone with moderate mechanical experience. The estimated time is 1.5 to 3 hours.

Key Steps & Torque Specs:

1. Drain the System: Use a turkey baster to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir. Then, place a drain pan under the vehicle and disconnect the low-pressure return hose from the pump to drain the rest of the fluid.
2. Remove the Belt: Loosen the tensioner and remove the accessory drive belt from the pump pulley.
3. Disconnect Hoses: Disconnect the high-pressure and low-pressure lines from the pump. Be prepared for some residual fluid to spill.
4. Unbolt the Pump: Remove the mounting bolts that secure the pump to its bracket and remove the pump from the vehicle.
5. Transfer Pulley (if needed): Most replacement pumps do not come with a pulley. You will need to transfer the pulley from your old pump to the new one.
6. Installation: Installation is the reverse of removal. Use new O-rings or crush washers on the fluid line fittings as required.
7. Torque Specs:
   • Pump Pivot & Adjustment Bolts: 7.5 - 11.5 ft-lbs
   • Fluid Line Banjo Bolts: Check manual, but generally snug them down firmly without over-tightening to avoid damaging the fittings.

Bleeding Air from the System (Crucial Final Step)

Trapped air will make the pump noisy and can damage it. Follow this procedure carefully:

1. Fill the Reservoir: Fill the reservoir with fresh, manufacturer-recommended power steering fluid. Most universal power steering fluids are acceptable. Leave the cap off.
2. Engine Off: With the engine OFF, slowly turn the steering wheel from full lock to full lock about 10 times. This helps move fluid into the steering gear and push large air bubbles out. Check the fluid level and top off as needed.
3. Engine On: Raise the front wheels off the ground so they can turn freely. Start the engine and let it idle.
4. Turn Lock-to-Lock: Slowly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock again. You may hear groaning or whining as the last of the air is purged. Continue until the noise disappears and the steering feels smooth.
5. Final Check: Turn off the engine, lower the vehicle, and check the fluid level one last time, topping off to the 'COLD' mark. Reinstall the reservoir cap.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)