1967-1968 Dodge Wm300 Pickup Headlight Switch Guide
Having trouble with flickering or dead headlights on your classic Dodge truck? Your headlight switch is the likely culprit.
- Flickering headlights are the most common symptom of a failing switch, caused by an old internal circuit breaker.
- Aftermarket replacements are the only practical option; Standard Ignition is a well-regarded brand worth the small price increase over budget options.
- Replacement is a simple DIY job for most owners, typically taking less than an hour.
- Avoid using a used switch, as it will likely have the same age-related wear as the part you are replacing.
Symptoms of a Failing Headlight Switch
On a straightforward truck like the Wm300, diagnosing a bad headlight switch is usually simple. The switch carries the full electrical load for the lights, which causes wear and heat over time. You'll likely notice one or more of these signs:
- Flickering or Intermittent Headlights: This is the most common symptom. The internal circuit breaker can become weak with age, causing it to trip and reset, making the lights flash. This can also be caused by corroded internal contacts.
- Headlights Go Out Completely: The switch can fail entirely, leaving you with no headlights. Often, the parking lights and taillights may still work.
- Switch is Hot to the Touch: After running the lights for a while, a failing switch with high internal resistance will become noticeably hot.
- Dash Lights Don't Work or Dim Properly: The dimmer function is part of the switch. If your dash lights are out or you can't adjust their brightness, the switch's internal rheostat has likely failed.
- Loss of Lights When Using Dimmer: If your headlights cut out when you use the floor-mounted high-beam dimmer switch, it often points to a weak main headlight switch that can't handle the change in electrical load.
A Note on Heat and Dimming
The rheostat used to dim the dash lights works by creating resistance, which generates heat. Running your dash lights at a dimmed setting for long periods can make the switch hot and may shorten its lifespan. Many owners of vintage vehicles run their dash lights at full brightness to keep the switch cooler.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Switch
For a 1967-1968 vehicle, finding a "New Old Stock" (NOS) OEM part is nearly impossible and would be very expensive. Aftermarket parts are the most practical and available choice. The two main options are Standard Ignition and Replacement brand switches.
- Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products): This is a well-established brand in the aftermarket industry with a reputation for producing reliable components. For a critical part like a headlight switch, choosing a trusted brand like Standard is a solid investment in reliability.
- Replacement: This brand offers a more budget-friendly option. While it will restore function, it may not have the same long-term durability or feel as a premium aftermarket part. For a truck that is used regularly, spending a few extra dollars on the Standard switch is often worthwhile.
New vs. Used
Given the low cost of a new aftermarket switch and the fact that these switches fail from age and use, installing a used part is not recommended. A used switch may have the same internal wear and could fail shortly after installation.
Cost of a New Headlight Switch (1967-1968 Dodge Wm300)
| Part Type | Price Range |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket (Replacement) | $25 - $30 |
| New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) | $30 - $35 |
| Shop Labor | $60 - $120 |
Installation Tip
Replacing the switch is a straightforward DIY job. After disconnecting the battery, you'll typically need to remove the knob and shaft. On many switches from this era, there is a small, spring-loaded button on the body of the switch itself (under the dash) that you must press to release the shaft so you can pull it all the way out. Once the knob and shaft are removed, you can unscrew the retaining nut on the dash and unplug the switch from behind.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do my headlights flicker but not go out completely?
This is a classic sign of the internal circuit breaker failing. It's designed to protect the wiring from a short circuit. As it ages, it becomes weak and trips under normal electrical load, causing the lights to cycle off and on as it resets. Replacing the switch is the only fix.
I installed a new switch and it still gets warm. Is that normal?
It is normal for the switch to feel slightly warm during operation, especially if you are using the dash light dimmer. This is because the entire current for the headlights passes through it. However, it should not get too hot to comfortably touch. If it feels excessively hot, you may have other wiring issues, a poor connection at the plug, or are using bulbs that draw more power than the stock units.
Can I repair my original headlight switch?
While some experienced mechanics attempt to disassemble and clean the internal contacts of these switches, it is not recommended for most owners. The switches were not designed to be serviced, and given the low cost of a new replacement part, buying a new switch is a faster, safer, and more reliable solution.
Are there any recalls for the headlight switch on my truck?
Searches for official NHTSA recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for the 1967-1968 Dodge Wm300 Pickup headlight switch did not return any results. This is common for vehicles of this age, as issues were typically addressed by dealers on a case-by-case basis long before modern recall systems were in place.
Technical Specifications
Pull-knob type switch with multi-position activation for parking lights and headlights. Includes integrated rheostat for instrument panel dimming and an internal thermal circuit breaker for headlight circuit protection.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.