1967 Dodge P100 Van Headlight Switch: A Complete Replacement Guide
Don't get left in the dark; learn how to spot a failing headlight switch and choose the right replacement for your classic Dodge van.
- Symptoms of a bad switch include flickering lights, a dead dimmer for dash lights, or a burning smell.
- For a long-term fix, install a headlight relay harness to take the high-current load off the new switch, preventing premature failure.
- Standard Ignition is a reputable aftermarket brand, while 'Replacement' brands are a budget-friendly option.
- Replacement is a simple DIY job that involves releasing the knob with a hidden button under the dash.
Is Your Headlight Switch Failing? Common Symptoms
A headlight switch from this era is a mechanical part that sees a lot of use. Over decades, the internal contacts can corrode, wear out, or overheat. Here are the most common signs that the switch in your P100 Van is on its way out:
- Flickering or Intermittent Lights: Your headlights or taillights may flash on and off while driving. This is often the internal circuit breaker resetting due to high resistance or a short.
- Lights Only Work in Certain Positions: You might have to jiggle the knob or pull it to a specific spot between clicks to get the lights to work.
- No Dashboard Lights: The dimmer function is often one of the first things to fail. You may lose all instrument panel illumination, even if the headlights still work.
- Burning Smell or Melted Connector: A failing switch can get very hot, sometimes hot enough to melt the plastic connector on the back or produce a distinct electrical burning smell.
- Complete Failure: One or more lighting systems (e.g., parking lights, headlights) may not turn on at all.
Check Other Causes First
Before replacing the switch, always check your fuses, wiring, and grounds. On a vehicle of this age, corroded bulb sockets or a bad ground connection can cause similar lighting problems. However, if symptoms like flickering or a dead dimmer point to the switch itself, a replacement is the next step.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Headlight Switch
For a 1967 vehicle, finding a New Old Stock (NOS) OEM headlight switch is nearly impossible. Your realistic options are a used original part or a new aftermarket replacement. New aftermarket parts offer a fresh start with clean contacts and are readily available.
Two main tiers of aftermarket brands are typically available:
- Standard Ignition: Standard Motor Products (SMP) is a well-regarded aftermarket manufacturer known for producing quality components that meet or exceed original specifications. For a critical part like a headlight switch, many owners and mechanics prefer a trusted brand like Standard for its reliability and durability.
- Replacement: This category includes various house brands and value-focused options. While more budget-friendly, some forum users express caution, preferring the known quality of an established brand over a generic "parts store" switch, which can sometimes have a shorter lifespan.
Pro Tip: Protect Your New Switch with a Relay Harness
The original wiring design sends all headlight power through the dash switch, causing it to heat up and eventually fail. The single best upgrade you can make is to install a headlight relay harness. This inexpensive kit pulls power directly from the battery to the headlights, using the headlight switch only as a low-power trigger for the relays. This takes the load off your new switch, ensuring it lasts much longer and often results in brighter headlights.
Headlight Switch Replacement Cost
Replacing the headlight switch on a 1967 P100 Van is an affordable job. The parts are not expensive, and labor is straightforward for a professional or a DIYer.
| Part/Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket Headlight Switch | $25 - $32 |
| Shop Labor | $90 - $150 |
| Total Estimated Cost | $115 - $182 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How difficult is it to replace the headlight switch myself?
This is a very feasible DIY job for someone with basic tools and patience. The process typically involves disconnecting the battery, reaching under the dash to find a small spring-loaded button on the switch body, pressing it to release the knob and shaft, unscrewing the retaining nut from the dashboard, and then carefully unplugging the wiring connector. Taking a picture of the wire placement before you unplug the old switch is highly recommended.
Do I need any special tools?
No special tools are usually required. A set of screwdrivers and possibly a tool to remove the bezel nut from the dash (though it can often be done by hand or with needle-nose pliers) is all you should need.
My dash lights don't dim properly with the new switch. Is it defective?
Sometimes, the rheostats in new aftermarket switches behave differently than the originals, especially with modern LED bulbs. Some owners find that original switches offered a finer dimming range. If the lights turn on and off but don't dim smoothly, it's often a characteristic of the new part rather than a defect, but repeated failures could point to a wiring issue.
Why did my replacement switch fail after only a year?
Premature failure of a new switch is almost always caused by the high electrical load from the headlights. The original wiring was barely adequate when new. To prevent repeat failures, installing a headlight relay harness is the best solution. It removes the stress from the switch, making it last significantly longer.
Technical Specifications
Pull-knob style dash-mounted switch with integrated rotational rheostat for instrument panel dimming.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.