1967 Chevrolet K20 Panel Headlight Switch: A Complete Replacement Guide
Don't get left in the dark; learn the signs of a failing headlight switch and how to choose the right replacement.
- Flickering headlights are the number one sign of a failing switch in your K20 Panel.
- Replacement is a straightforward DIY job that most owners can complete in about an hour.
- Ensure you purchase the correct 8-pin switch specific to the 1967 model year.
- A new aftermarket switch from a brand like Standard Ignition is the most reliable and practical option.
Is Your K20 Panel's Headlight Switch Failing?
A faulty headlight switch is a common issue on classic trucks like the 1967 K20 Panel. The original design sends all the power for the headlights directly through the switch. Over many decades, this electrical load causes the internal components to wear out, overheat, and eventually fail. This problem can be worse if you have installed brighter, modern headlights that draw more power.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Part
For a vintage vehicle like this, finding a new original equipment (OEM) part from GM is not realistic. Your main choices are a used original part or a new aftermarket part. While a used switch might maintain originality, it's still a 50-plus-year-old electrical component that could fail at any time. A new aftermarket switch from a reputable brand like Standard Ignition is often the most reliable and practical choice. These modern replacements are made with current technology and materials, designed to handle the electrical loads of a classic truck's lighting system effectively. When replacing the switch, it's a good idea to inspect the plastic wiring connector. If it appears melted or brittle, it should be replaced as well to prevent damage to your new switch.
Pro Tip: Extend the Life of Your New Switch
Consider installing a headlight relay harness. This inexpensive upgrade takes the high-amperage load off the dashboard switch and sends power directly from the battery to the headlights. This makes the new switch last much longer and can even make your headlights noticeably brighter.
Replacement Cost
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) | $54.85 |
| Used OEM | $20 - $75 (Varies by condition) |
| Shop Labor | $95 - $190 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is it difficult to replace the headlight switch myself?
No, this is a very common DIY job for classic truck owners. The most difficult part is often the uncomfortable position of working under the dashboard. The process involves pressing a small spring-loaded button on the switch body to release the knob and shaft, unscrewing the bezel nut from the dash, and unplugging the electrical connector.
Why do my headlights flicker on and off while driving?
This is the classic symptom of a failing internal circuit breaker inside the headlight switch. It's overheating due to age or high resistance. Replacing the switch is the correct fix.
What is the difference between the headlight switch and the dimmer switch?
They are two separate parts. The headlight switch is the pull-knob on the dash. The dimmer switch on these trucks is typically a small, foot-operated button on the floor that toggles between high and low beams.
Are all 1967-1972 Chevy truck headlight switches the same?
No. It is critical to get the correct switch for your year. The 1967 trucks used a specific 8-pin switch that is different from the 7-pin switch used in 1968-1972 models. Using the wrong one will cause it not to plug in or function correctly.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 1995163 1995164 1995165
Dash-mounted pull-knob switch with an 8-pin connector, integrated rheostat for dash light dimming, and an internal circuit breaker.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.