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1966-1972 BMW 2000 Horn: A Guide to Replacement and Troubleshooting

Get your classic BMW's horn working again with this guide to common problems and part selection.

3 minutes to read 1966-1972 BMW 2000
Difficulty
1/5
Est. Time
0.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$60-$120
Used OEM Price
$25-$75
⚠️ Drivable, but... — You can drive the vehicle, but a functioning horn is a critical safety feature and may be required for state safety inspections.
Key Takeaways
  • Horn failure on a BMW 2000 is often caused by simple issues like a bad ground, corroded wires, or a faulty relay, not just a dead horn.
  • Before buying a new part, test the horn by connecting it directly to a 12V battery.
  • Replacement is a very easy DIY job that takes less than an hour with basic tools.
  • An aftermarket horn from a brand like Standard Ignition is a reliable and cost-effective solution for this classic vehicle.
The horn on your 1966-1972 BMW 2000 is a critical safety device for alerting other drivers. It is part of a simple electrical circuit. When you press the horn button on the steering wheel, it typically activates a relay, which sends 12-volt power to the horn unit itself, causing it to sound. These horns are usually located behind the front grille, where they are exposed to the elements. Some classic cars of this era used two horns, a high-tone and a low-tone, to create a fuller sound.

Is Your BMW 2000 Horn Failing?

A non-working horn is a common issue on a classic car like the BMW 2000. After decades of use, the original horn can fail due to internal corrosion or electrical issues. Its location behind the front grille exposes it to rain and road debris, which speeds up this process. Often, the problem isn't the horn itself, but other parts of the circuit like a fuse, the relay, or the ground connection.

Common Symptoms of a Bad Horn

  • No Sound at All: When you press the horn button, nothing happens. This could be a blown fuse, a bad relay, a wiring issue, or a completely failed horn unit.
  • Weak or Muffled Sound: If the horn sounds quiet or "sick," it may be due to corrosion on the electrical connectors, a poor ground connection, or internal failure of the horn itself.
  • Intermittent Operation: The horn works sometimes but not others. This often points to a loose wire, a failing relay, or worn contacts in the steering wheel horn button.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Horn

For a classic vehicle like the BMW 2000, finding a brand new Original Equipment (OEM) horn is nearly impossible. The market primarily consists of New Old Stock (NOS) parts which are rare and expensive, used OEM parts, or new aftermarket replacements.

OEM vs. Aftermarket

Used OEM: A used horn from a donor car can maintain originality but carries the risk of being near the end of its own service life. Prices are generally low.

New Aftermarket: For a functional part like a horn, a new aftermarket unit is often the most practical choice. Brands like Standard Ignition (also known as Standard Motor Products or SMP) produce direct-fit replacement parts that are cost-effective and reliable. While SMP's quality can be inconsistent across their vast catalog, for a simple, universal-style part like a horn for a vintage car, their products are a dependable service replacement.

Cost Comparison (2026 Estimates)
Part Type Price Range
New OEM (NOS) $100 - $200+ (if found)
New Aftermarket $54.41 - $54.41
Used OEM $25 - $75
Shop Labor $60 - $120

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is the horn located on a 1966-1972 BMW 2000?

The horn is almost always located behind the front "kidney" grilles, mounted to the car's front support panel. This location makes it vulnerable to weather and road spray, which is a common reason for failure.

Is replacing the horn a difficult job?

No, this is a very easy job for a DIY mechanic. It usually involves removing the front grilles for access, unplugging one or two wires, and removing a single mounting bolt. The entire process typically takes less than 30 minutes with basic hand tools. Always disconnect the battery before working on electrical components.

My horn doesn't work. Is it always the horn's fault?

No. Before buying a new horn, it's wise to do some simple troubleshooting. The most common failure points in the system are the fuse, the horn relay, the horn button contacts in the steering wheel, or corroded wiring and grounds. A simple test is to run a wire directly from the battery to the horn's terminals; if it sounds, the problem lies elsewhere in the circuit.

Were there any recalls for the horn on the BMW 2000?

No. Searches of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database show no recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) related to the horn for the 1966-1972 BMW 2000.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 61331371914 (for reference from similar models)

Voltage: 12V, Terminal Type: 2-Blade

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Jul 21, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
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