1963-1964 Studebaker 8E5 Brake Light Switch: A Comprehensive Guide
Understanding the unique hydraulic brake light switch in your classic Studebaker and how to replace it.
- The 1963-64 Studebaker 8E5 uses a hydraulic pressure switch on the master cylinder, not a mechanical pedal switch.
- The original hydraulic switch design is a known failure point; a new aftermarket switch from a brand like Standard Ignition is the standard replacement.
- Do not use aftermarket hydraulic switches with silicone brake fluid, as it can cause premature failure.
- Replacement is a simple DIY job, but you must bleed the brakes afterward to ensure safety.
Understanding Your Studebaker's Hydraulic Brake Light Switch
If your brake lights have stopped working, the switch is a common suspect. The original-style hydraulic pressure switches used on the 1963-1964 Studebaker 8E5 are a known weak point. They are prone to failure and can be a source of brake fluid leaks. Over time, these switches can fail internally, preventing your brake lights from turning on, or they can get stuck, leaving the lights permanently on.
A Note on Brake Fluid
Many aftermarket replacement switches, including those from Standard Ignition, are not designed for use with silicone brake fluid. Using silicone fluid can cause these switches to fail prematurely. If your vehicle has been converted to silicone brake fluid, you may experience repeated switch failures. In this case, converting to a mechanical switch is the most reliable solution.
Symptoms of a Failing Brake Light Switch
On a classic vehicle like the Studebaker 8E5, diagnosing a bad brake light switch is usually straightforward. Before blaming the switch, always check the simple things first: the brake light bulbs and the fuse.
- Brake Lights Do Not Work: This is the most dangerous symptom. If the bulbs and fuse are good, the switch has likely failed and is not completing the electrical circuit.
- Brake Lights Stay On: If the switch fails in the closed position, it will continuously send power to the brake lights, which can drain your battery and confuse other drivers.
- Intermittent or Flickering Lights: A switch that is wearing out may cause the lights to flicker when you press the pedal. This indicates an unreliable connection that will soon fail completely.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Part: OEM Design vs. Aftermarket Quality
For a vehicle of this age, finding a New Old Stock (NOS) OEM Studebaker switch is difficult and not necessarily better. The original hydraulic design is the primary point of failure, a problem that owners have dealt with for decades.
A new aftermarket switch from a reputable brand like Standard Ignition is the most practical and common choice. These switches are manufactured with modern materials and quality control, but they still operate based on the original hydraulic pressure design. They offer a direct-fit replacement that will restore original function, provided you are using standard DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid.
Pro Tip: Consider a Mechanical Switch Conversion
Many Studebaker owners choose to upgrade to a more reliable mechanical brake light switch. This involves mounting a simple button-style switch near the brake pedal arm. The advantage is that the lights activate instantly with pedal movement, rather than waiting for hydraulic pressure to build. This modification also removes a potential brake fluid leak point from the system. Studebaker even provided a pre-drilled hole on the pedal assembly of many 1963-1966 models that can be used for this conversion.
Estimated Replacement Costs
Replacing the hydraulic brake light switch is a simple and inexpensive job. The main cost is the part itself.
| Item | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket Switch (Standard Ignition) | $15 - $20 |
| Shop Labor | $50 - $100 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Where is the brake light switch located on my 1963-1964 Studebaker 8E5?
The brake light switch is a hydraulic pressure switch located outside the cabin. You will find it screwed into the master cylinder in the engine bay. It will have two electrical wires connected to it.
How can I test my brake light switch?
After confirming the bulbs and fuse are good, you can test the switch. Unplug the two wires from the switch. Use a small jumper wire to connect the two wire terminals together. If the brake lights turn on, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If they do not light up, the problem is elsewhere in the vehicle's wiring.
Is replacing the brake light switch a difficult DIY job?
No, for a DIY mechanic, this is a relatively easy job. It involves unplugging the wires, unscrewing the old switch, and quickly screwing in the new one to minimize brake fluid loss. However, it is critical to bleed the brakes after replacement to remove any air that may have entered the system.
Are there any recalls for the brake light switch on a 1963-64 Studebaker?
No, there are no recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the NHTSA for the brake light switch on this vehicle. This is normal for a vehicle of this vintage, as major safety issues were not tracked in the same way they are today.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 666858
Hydraulic Pressure Activated, 2-Terminal, 1/8-27 NPT Thread
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.