Your 1962-1966 Studebaker Daytona Brake Light Switch: A Complete Guide
Keep your classic Daytona safe and on the road by understanding this simple but critical safety part.
- A faulty brake light switch is a critical safety issue; do not drive the vehicle if the brake lights are not working.
- Always check the bulbs and the fuse first before deciding to replace the switch, as they can cause the same symptoms.
- Replacement is a simple, inexpensive DIY task that most owners can perform in under 30 minutes.
- Aftermarket parts from brands like Standard Ignition are the reliable, industry-standard choice for this repair.
Is Your Studebaker's Brake Light Switch Failing?
On a classic car like the Daytona, the signs of a bad brake light switch are straightforward. Because it is a simple on/off switch, it typically fails in one of two ways, creating an immediate safety issue.
Safety First: Check Bulbs and Fuses
Before you blame the switch, always check the simple things first. A burned-out bulb or a blown fuse will create the same symptoms as a failed switch. Check the fuse panel and inspect the brake light bulbs before spending time and money on a new switch.
Symptoms of a Bad Brake Light Switch
- Brake Lights Do Not Turn On: This is the most common and dangerous symptom. You press the brake pedal, but the switch fails to complete the circuit, leaving other drivers unaware you are stopping. This is a critical safety failure.
- Brake Lights Stay On Constantly: The switch can also get stuck in the 'on' position. This causes the brake lights to stay lit even when your foot is off the pedal, which can confuse other drivers and drain your battery when the car is parked.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Brake Light Switch
For a vehicle of this era, finding New Old Stock (NOS) or original equipment (OEM) parts is not practical. The standard for repair is a quality new aftermarket part. These parts are designed to meet or exceed the original specifications and are readily available.
- Standard Ignition (SMP): A widely recognized and trusted brand in the aftermarket world. Their switches are known for being reliable, direct-fit replacements. They often feature robust designs with brass or high-impact housings and copper alloy conductors for durability and good performance.
- Rostra Powertrain: Rostra is another established aftermarket manufacturer, known for a wide range of automotive electronics from cruise controls to lighting. While they offer replacement switches, specific owner feedback for this Studebaker application is less common than for Standard Ignition.
For this part, either brand should provide a reliable replacement. However, Standard Ignition (SMP) is a very common and trusted choice for classic car electrical components.
Typical Replacement Costs
Replacing the brake light switch is one of the most affordable repairs you can make. The part itself is inexpensive, and labor is minimal.
| Part or Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket Switch | $10.92 - $15.52 |
| Shop Labor | $50 - $100 |
| Total Estimated Cost | $60 - $116 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How do I test the brake light switch?
If your bulbs and fuse are good, you can easily test the switch. First, locate the switch. Disconnect the two wires connected to it. Then, carefully use a jumper wire to connect the two wires together. If the brake lights turn on, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If they do not light up, the problem is likely in the wiring itself.
Where is the brake light switch located on my Daytona?
The location can vary. On many classic cars, it is a mechanical switch mounted to a bracket near the top of the brake pedal arm, activated when the pedal moves. However, some Studebakers used a hydraulic pressure switch, which is a round sender with two posts, located on the master cylinder or on the frame near the engine. You will need to inspect your specific vehicle's brake pedal assembly and master cylinder area to confirm which type you have.
Are there any recalls for the 1962-1966 Daytona brake light switch?
No. There are no active recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) for this part on this vehicle. Recalls and TSBs are very rare for vehicles of this age.
Is this a difficult part to replace myself?
No, this is a great DIY job for owners of any skill level. It is typically held in place by a clip or a simple threaded nut and has two wires to disconnect. Accessing it under the dash or on the frame might be slightly awkward, but the replacement process itself is very simple and usually takes less than 30 minutes.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 1558973
Two-terminal, normally open, mechanical or hydraulic pressure switch.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.