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Your Guide to the 1960 Studebaker 5E7 Brake Light Switch

Keep your classic truck's brake lights reliable with the right replacement switch.

3 minutes to read 1960-1960 Studebaker 5E7
Difficulty
1/5
Est. Time
0.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$50-$100
🚫 Do not drive — It is illegal and extremely unsafe to drive a vehicle with brake lights that do not work.
Key Takeaways
  • The brake light switch is a critical safety part; a failure is a major safety risk.
  • Symptoms include brake lights not working, staying on, or flickering.
  • For a 1960 vehicle, a new aftermarket switch from a brand like Standard Ignition is the most reliable and practical choice.
  • Replacement is a simple, quick, and inexpensive DIY job for most owners.
The brake light switch on your 1960 Studebaker 5E7 is a critical safety part. Its job is simple: to turn on your brake lights when you press the brake pedal. On many classic vehicles like the 5E7, this can be either a mechanical switch mounted near the brake pedal or a hydraulic pressure switch installed in the brake lines. When you brake, the switch closes an electrical circuit, sending power to the rear lights and letting other drivers know you are slowing down. A functioning switch is essential for safety on the road.

Symptoms of a Failing Brake Light Switch

On a classic truck like the 1960 Studebaker 5E7, the signs of a bad brake light switch are usually straightforward. Before you assume the switch is the problem, always check your light bulbs and fuses first—they are common and easy fixes.

  • Brake Lights Don't Turn On: This is the most dangerous symptom. If the bulbs and fuse are good, the switch has likely failed internally and isn't completing the circuit.
  • Brake Lights Stay On: The switch can fail in the 'on' position, leaving your brake lights permanently lit. This will drain your battery and confuse other drivers.
  • Intermittent or Flickering Lights: Worn internal contacts can cause the lights to flicker or only work when you press the pedal hard. This is a sign that the switch will soon fail completely.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Switch

For a vehicle from 1960, finding original "new" parts from Studebaker is not a realistic option. Your choice is between a hard-to-find New Old Stock (NOS) part, a used original part, or a new aftermarket part.

OEM (NOS) vs. Aftermarket

  • New Old Stock (NOS): These are original, unused parts that have been stored for decades. They are rare, expensive, and may have issues from age despite being "new."
  • Used OEM: Pulled from a parts vehicle, their condition and remaining lifespan are unknown.
  • New Aftermarket: This is the most practical and common choice. Companies like Standard Ignition produce new switches that are readily available and affordable. They are designed to meet or exceed the original specifications and offer modern reliability. For a simple, critical part like a brake light switch, a new aftermarket unit is the most sensible and reliable option.

Part Cost Comparison

Part Type Price Range
New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) $15.52
New Old Stock (OEM) Not commonly available
Used OEM Varies by source

A Note on Switch Types

Studebakers from different years used two types of switches: hydraulic pressure switches and mechanical pedal switches. Some owners of classic cars with hydraulic switches report premature failures, especially when using modern silicone brake fluid. As a result, some owners modify their trucks to use a more reliable mechanical switch. 🎬 Watch how to install a mechanical switch in a classic car. Be sure to identify which type your specific truck uses before ordering a replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is it hard to replace a brake light switch?

No, this is a very easy job for a DIY mechanic. If it's a mechanical switch, it is usually located on a bracket by the brake pedal arm. It involves unplugging the wires and unscrewing the switch. A hydraulic switch is screwed into the master cylinder or a brake line junction; replacing it is also simple, but may require you to bleed the brakes afterward.

How do I test my brake light switch?

After checking the bulbs and fuse, you can test the switch with a multimeter to check for continuity. A simpler test is to bypass the switch by unplugging its two wires and connecting them together with a jumper wire. 🎬 See how to test and replace your brake light sensor switch. If the brake lights turn on, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

Are there any recalls for the 1960 Studebaker 5E7 brake light switch?

No recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) were found in public NHTSA databases for the brake light switch on this vehicle. This is normal for a vehicle of this age.

Is a brake light switch the same as a stoplight switch?

Yes, the terms "brake light switch" and "stoplight switch" are used interchangeably to describe the same part.

How to Install a Mechanical Brake Light Switch in a Classic Car
How to Install a Mechanical Brake Light Switch in a Classic Car
Brake Pedal and Brake Light Sensor Switch Testing and Replacement
Brake Pedal and Brake Light Sensor Switch Testing and Replacement

Technical Specifications

Varies by type (Mechanical or Hydraulic). The Standard Ignition aftermarket switch is a screw-in type with 2 male bullet terminals.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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Meet Wrenchy → Updated Jul 21, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Brake Light Switch for:
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