Jeep CJ6 (1959-1965) Universal Joint Replacement Guide
Keep your classic CJ6 running smoothly by understanding when and how to replace your universal joints.
- Dana Spicer is the most recommended brand for quality and reliability, considered OEM-grade for Jeeps.
- Symptoms like squeaking, clunking when shifting, and new vibrations are serious warnings that should not be ignored.
- Failure to replace a worn U-joint can lead to catastrophic driveshaft separation, causing loss of control and further damage.
- Consider replacing all U-joints on a driveshaft at the same time, as they have been subjected to the same amount of wear.
Symptoms of a Failing Universal Joint
A worn or failing U-joint will usually provide some warning signs. Ignoring them can lead to driveshaft separation, which can cause significant damage. Listen and feel for these common symptoms:
- Squeaking Noises: A high-pitched squeak that corresponds with your vehicle's speed, especially at low speeds, often points to a dry or failing U-joint. This is caused by the needle bearings inside the U-joint cap running without lubrication.
- Clunking or Ringing Sounds: A distinct "clunk" or metallic ringing sound when you shift from Drive to Reverse is a classic sign of a worn U-joint with excessive play.
- Vibration: A vibration that you can feel through the floor of the Jeep while driving is a common symptom. As the U-joint wears, it goes out of balance, causing the entire driveshaft to vibrate. This vibration will often change with speed.
- Visible Looseness: If you can safely get under the Jeep (with the transmission in neutral and wheels chocked), you can check for play by trying to twist the driveshaft by hand. Any significant movement or clunking indicates a worn U-joint.
Critical Failure Warning
A complete U-joint failure can be catastrophic. The driveshaft can detach from the vehicle, potentially digging into the ground and causing you to lose control, or damaging the transmission, transfer case, and fuel lines. If you suspect a U-joint is failing, it should be inspected and replaced immediately.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint
For a classic vehicle like the 1959-1965 CJ6, aftermarket parts are the most common and accessible option. Original Equipment (OEM) parts from that era are long gone. Fortunately, the quality of top-tier aftermarket brands is excellent and often meets or exceeds the original specifications. Here’s a breakdown of brand quality based on owner feedback and reputation:
Tier 1: Premium & OEM Quality
These brands are widely regarded as the best choices for reliability and durability, especially for a vehicle that might see off-road use.
- Dana Spicer Chassis: Spicer is the original equipment manufacturer for many Jeeps and is considered the gold standard by most enthusiasts. If you want the best fit and longest life, Spicer is the top recommendation. They offer both greasable and non-greasable options.
- Moog: Moog is another highly respected brand in the suspension and drivetrain world. It's often considered the next best choice after Spicer. Some users have noted a decline in quality over the years as production has moved, but they are still considered a reliable option.
Tier 2: Standard & Economy
These brands offer a good balance of price and quality for a daily driver or light-duty vehicle.
- SKF: Known for bearings and seals, SKF also produces quality U-joints that are a reliable choice for standard replacement.
- GMB: GMB is a well-known aftermarket manufacturer that produces parts for many applications. Their U-joints are a cost-effective option for standard repairs.
Tier 3: Budget & Specialty
These brands are often the most affordable or cater to the specific needs of the Jeep restoration market.
- Omix-Ada / Crown Automotive: These brands specialize in Jeep replacement parts. While they are great for finding hard-to-find cosmetic or specific Jeep parts, their mechanical parts like U-joints are sometimes viewed as being of lower quality than brands like Spicer or Moog. They are often suitable for a stock restoration that won't see heavy use.
- Yukon Gear & Axle: Primarily known for differential and axle components, Yukon also offers U-joints, often geared towards heavy-duty or performance applications.
Greasable vs. Non-Greasable U-Joints
You'll see options for both greasable and non-greasable U-joints. Non-greasable (or sealed) joints are typically stronger because the cross is solid, not drilled for grease channels. They are filled with high-quality grease at the factory and require no maintenance. Greasable joints have a zerk fitting that allows you to add fresh grease periodically. This can help flush out water and contaminants, potentially extending their life, especially if you frequently drive in mud or water. However, they require regular maintenance and are slightly weaker by design.
Cost of Replacing a Universal Joint (1959-1965 Jeep CJ6)
| Part/Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket U-Joint | $18 - $50 per joint |
| Shop Labor | $100 - $250 |
| Total (DIY) | $18 - $100 (for 2-4 joints) |
| Total (Installed at Shop) | $150 - $450+ |
Cost estimates are approximate and can vary based on your location, the specific parts chosen, and the condition of your vehicle.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many U-joints does my CJ6 have?
A typical 4WD CJ6 will have at least three U-joints: one at each end of the rear driveshaft and one on the front driveshaft. Some configurations, especially if modified, may have more, such as a double-cardan joint near the transfer case which contains two U-joints in close proximity.
Is replacing a U-joint a difficult job?
It is a moderately difficult job that requires specific tools. The driveshaft must be removed from the vehicle. Then, the old U-joint must be pressed out of the yokes using a large vise, a hydraulic press, or a specialized U-joint tool. Installing the new joint requires care to avoid damaging the new needle bearings. While it is feasible for a skilled DIY mechanic, many owners choose to have a professional shop perform the work.
Do I need to get my driveshaft balanced after replacing the U-joints?
For a stock vehicle at stock speeds, it is not always necessary if the work is done carefully. However, if you were experiencing vibrations before the replacement, or if you drive at highway speeds, having the driveshaft balanced is highly recommended to ensure a smooth ride and prevent premature wear on other drivetrain components.
Should I replace all the U-joints at once?
If one U-joint has failed due to age and wear, the others are likely in similar condition. It is good practice and often more cost-effective in the long run to replace all the U-joints on a driveshaft at the same time. This is especially true if you are paying for shop labor, as the driveshaft will already be removed.
Were there any recalls for CJ6 U-joints?
No, searches of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database did not find any recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) related to the universal joints on the 1959-1965 Jeep CJ6. Any recalls found for Jeeps relate to much newer models and different components.
Technical Specifications
U-joint selection for the 1959-1965 CJ6 depends on the specific driveshaft and axle combination. Common series include 1310. It is critical to measure the old U-joint (cap diameter and overall width) before ordering a replacement to ensure a correct fit, as modifications over the years are common on these vehicles.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.