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A Practical Guide to the 1959 Studebaker 4E2D Starter Solenoid

If your classic Studebaker truck clicks but won't start, the starter solenoid is the most likely culprit.

4 minutes to read 1959-1959 Studebaker 4E2D
Difficulty
1/5
Est. Time
0.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$60-$120
Used OEM Price
$20-$50
🚫 Do not drive — A failed starter solenoid will prevent the engine from cranking, making it impossible to start the vehicle.
Key Takeaways
  • The most common symptom of failure is a single loud 'click' with no engine crank.
  • On the 1959 4E2D, this is a remote-mounted solenoid, making it very easy to access and replace.
  • Standard Ignition is the primary aftermarket brand available for this part.
  • Before replacing, always check that your battery is charged and all cable connections are clean and tight.
The starter solenoid on your 1959 Studebaker 4E2D is a small but powerful electromagnetic switch. When you turn the ignition key, it takes a small electrical signal and uses it to close a much larger circuit. This action sends the high amperage needed from the battery directly to the starter motor, which then cranks the engine. On this specific truck, the solenoid is typically not attached to the starter motor itself but is mounted remotely on the inner fender or firewall. It acts as the main relay for the entire starting system.

Is Your Studebaker Refusing to Start?

A common point of failure on classic trucks like the 1959 Studebaker 4E2D is the starter solenoid. Due to its age and function—handling high electrical currents—this part can wear out, leaving you stranded. The good news is that it's a straightforward part to diagnose and replace. The most common symptoms point directly to a failing solenoid.

Symptoms of a Failing Starter Solenoid

  • Single Loud Click: You turn the key and hear one loud "CLICK" from under the hood, but the engine doesn't crank. This sound is the solenoid engaging, but its internal contacts are too worn or corroded to pass power to the starter.
  • No Sound at All: You turn the key and get nothing—no click, no crank, even though your lights and accessories work. This can mean the solenoid has failed completely and isn't even trying to engage.
  • Intermittent Starting: The truck starts fine one day but won't start the next. You might have to turn the key several times before it finally cranks. This is a classic sign of a solenoid on its last legs.
  • Starter Remains Engaged: In rare cases, the solenoid's internal contacts can get stuck together, causing the starter motor to keep running even after the engine has started and you've released the key. This can cause serious damage to the starter.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Solenoid

For a 1959 Studebaker, finding a new original equipment (OEM) part is not a realistic option. The market consists of New Old Stock (NOS) parts—which are original but can be very expensive and hard to find—and new aftermarket parts.

Brand Availability: Standard Ignition

Standard Motor Products (SMP) is a long-established brand that produces replacement parts for a vast range of vehicles, including classics. For a vehicle of this era, Standard Ignition is a reliable and widely available choice. While some classic car enthusiasts note that modern replacement electrical parts may not feel as heavy-duty as the originals from the 1950s and 60s, a new Standard solenoid is a perfectly functional replacement that will restore your truck's starting reliability. Given the limited options, it is the go-to choice for this application.

Typical Replacement Costs

The cost to replace the starter solenoid on a 1959 Studebaker 4E2D is very reasonable, especially if you do the work yourself. The part is accessible, and the job requires only basic hand tools.

Part TypePart CostShop Labor CostTotal Cost
New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition)$49.14$60 - $120$109.14 - $169.14
New Old Stock (OEM)$75 - $200+ (highly variable)$60 - $120$135 - $320+

Pro Tip: Before replacing the solenoid, always clean your battery terminals and the cable ends that connect to the solenoid. Dirty or corroded connections can cause the same symptoms as a bad part and are a common issue on vintage vehicles.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How can I test my starter solenoid?

With the truck in Park or Neutral, you can use a multimeter to check for voltage. There should be constant 12V power at the main battery terminal. When an assistant turns the key to 'start', you should see 12V at the small 'S' terminal (the signal wire) and also at the large output terminal that leads to the starter. If you have power at the signal terminal but not the output terminal, the solenoid is bad.

Is replacing the starter solenoid a difficult job?

No, this is a great job for a DIY mechanic. The solenoid is usually mounted on the fender wall and is easy to access. The process involves disconnecting the battery, removing a few nuts and wires (label them first!), unbolting the old solenoid, and installing the new one. It typically takes less than an hour.

How do I know it's the solenoid and not the battery or starter?

If your headlights are bright but the truck won't crank (or just clicks), the battery is likely okay. A single, loud click strongly points to the solenoid. If you hear rapid, repeated clicking, your battery is likely weak. If you hear a grinding noise or the starter spins but doesn't engage the engine, the problem is more likely in the starter motor itself.

Are there any recalls or technical bulletins for this issue?

No, there are no active recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the NHTSA for the 1959 Studebaker 4E2D related to the starter solenoid. Issues on a vehicle of this age are typically addressed through standard diagnosis and repair.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 1539716

Voltage: 12V, Terminal Quantity: 4, Mounting: Remote (Fender/Firewall)

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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