Studebaker 4E11 Starter Solenoid: A Guide for the 1959 Model Year
Everything you need to know about replacing the starter solenoid on your classic 1959 Studebaker 4E11 truck.
- A single, loud 'click' with no engine crank is the most common sign of a failed starter solenoid on your 4E11.
- For this vintage truck, a new aftermarket part from a brand like Standard Ignition is the most practical and reliable replacement option.
- The solenoid is likely mounted on the firewall or inner fender, not on the starter itself, making it an easy part to access and replace for a DIY mechanic.
- Before replacing the solenoid, always confirm your battery is fully charged and the cable connections are clean and tight.
Is Your Studebaker Refusing to Start? It Could Be the Solenoid.
A common point of failure in the starting system of any classic truck is the starter solenoid. Due to age, corrosion, and simple wear and tear from thousands of starts, this component can fail, leaving you stranded. Symptoms often appear suddenly and can be confusing, sometimes mimicking a dead battery or a bad starter motor. Understanding the specific signs of a failing solenoid can save you time and help you get your 4E11 back on the road.
Symptoms of a Bad Starter Solenoid on a 1959 4E11
Pay close attention to what happens when you turn the key. The sounds your truck makes—or doesn't make—are the best clues.
- A Single, Loud Click: This is the classic symptom. You turn the key, hear one solid "CLICK" from under the hood, but the engine doesn't crank. This usually means the solenoid is receiving power from the ignition but is failing to close the circuit to power the starter motor.
- No Sound at All: If you turn the key and get complete silence, the solenoid may have failed entirely and isn't engaging at all.
- Intermittent Starting: The truck starts fine one day but only clicks the next. This unpredictable behavior points to worn internal contacts inside the solenoid that are making a poor connection.
- Starter Keeps Running: In rare cases, the internal contacts can weld themselves together. This will cause the starter motor to continue running even after you release the key, which can cause serious damage to the starter and flywheel.
- Burning Smell or Smoke: A short circuit or severe resistance in the solenoid can cause it to overheat, sometimes producing smoke or a distinct electrical burning smell.
Choosing an Aftermarket Starter Solenoid
For a 1959 vehicle, finding New Old Stock (NOS) or original OEM parts is nearly impossible. The most reliable and available option is a new aftermarket part. Fortunately, the design of these solenoids is simple and has been produced for decades.
Aftermarket Brand Assessment: Standard Ignition
| Brand | Our Assessment |
|---|---|
| Standard Ignition (SMP) | Standard Motor Products is a long-standing brand in the aftermarket and is generally considered a dependable choice for classic vehicles. They often state the use of quality components like heavy-duty copper contacts to reduce arcing and extend the part's life. For a straightforward component like a fender-mounted solenoid on a vintage truck, Standard Ignition is a reliable and cost-effective solution. |
A Note on Part Location
On many 1950s and 1960s trucks, including Studebakers, the starter solenoid is not attached to the starter motor itself. It is typically a small, cylindrical part mounted to the firewall or inner fender well. Always confirm the location on your specific truck before ordering.
Estimated Costs for Replacement
Replacing the starter solenoid is one of the more affordable starting system repairs.
| Part/Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket Solenoid | $49.14 |
| Shop Labor | $60 - $120 |
| Total Estimated Cost | $109 - $169 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is it hard to replace the starter solenoid on my 1959 Studebaker truck?
No, this is generally considered an easy DIY job. If your solenoid is mounted on the firewall or fender, replacement involves disconnecting the battery, removing the wires from the two large posts and one or two small posts, and unbolting the solenoid from the body. The entire process can often be done in under an hour with basic hand tools.
Could my starting problem just be a bad battery?
Yes. A weak battery can cause rapid clicking, while a bad solenoid usually causes a single, strong click. Before replacing the solenoid, ensure your battery is fully charged and the battery cable connections are clean and tight. If the truck still only clicks with a known-good battery, the solenoid is the likely culprit.
Can I repair my old solenoid?
While some people have successfully cleaned the internal contacts on older solenoids, it often requires desoldering the case, which can be difficult. Given the low cost and high availability of a new aftermarket part, replacement is the most practical and reliable option.
What is the correct part number for my truck's solenoid?
Cross-references for 1959-1964 Studebaker trucks point to the OEM part number 1539716 for the 12-volt, fender-mounted solenoid. Always verify this against the aftermarket part's specifications.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 1539716
Voltage: 12V, Mounting Location: Fender/Firewall (Remote)
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.