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Studebaker 4E1 Starter Solenoid: A Guide for the 1959 Model Year

If your 1959 Studebaker 4E1 just clicks or won't crank, the starter solenoid could be the problem.

3 minutes to read 1959-1959 Studebaker 4E1
Difficulty
1/5
Est. Time
0.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$60-$120
Used OEM Price
$20-$50
🚫 Do not drive — If the starter solenoid has failed, your truck will not be able to start its engine, leaving you stranded.
Key Takeaways
  • The 1959 Studebaker 4E1 uses a remote-mounted 12-volt starter solenoid, which is easier to replace than modern starter-mounted units.
  • A single, loud click with no engine crank is a classic symptom of a failed solenoid, while rapid clicking usually points to a weak battery.
  • Always inspect your battery and cable connections for tightness and corrosion before replacing the solenoid, as this is a common issue on classic trucks.
  • A new aftermarket solenoid from a brand like Standard Ignition is a reliable and cost-effective repair for this vehicle.
The starter solenoid on your 1959 Studebaker 4E1 acts like a powerful switch for your starter motor. When you turn the key, a small electrical signal goes to the solenoid. The solenoid then closes a much larger circuit, allowing the high amperage from the battery to flow directly to the starter motor, which cranks the engine. For your specific truck, this is a 12-volt solenoid that is mounted remotely on the inner fender or firewall, not directly on the starter motor itself. This design was common for vehicles of this era.

Is Your Studebaker 4E1 Starter Solenoid Failing?

A bad starter solenoid can leave you stranded. Because the 1959 Studebaker 4E1 uses a remote-mounted solenoid, you might hear the tell-tale 'click' coming from the engine bay rather than directly under the engine. Knowing the signs of failure can help you diagnose the problem correctly and get your classic truck running reliably again.

Symptoms of a Bad Starter Solenoid

  • Single Loud Click: You turn the key and hear one loud click, but the engine doesn't crank. This often means the solenoid is engaging but failing to send full power to the starter.
  • No Sound at All: If you turn the key and there is complete silence, the solenoid may have failed completely and isn't even trying to engage.
  • Intermittent Starting: The truck starts fine one day but won't start the next. This can be a sign of worn internal contacts inside the solenoid.
  • Starter Remains Engaged: In rare cases, the solenoid can get stuck, causing the starter motor to continue running even after the engine has started and you've released the key.
  • Burning Smell: Smoke or a smell of burning plastic after trying to start the engine is a serious sign of an electrical short inside the solenoid. Stop trying to start the vehicle immediately to prevent further damage.
Rapid Clicking vs. Single Click: A rapid-fire clicking noise is usually a symptom of a weak or dead battery, not a bad solenoid. The solenoid tries to engage, the battery voltage drops, it disengages, and the cycle repeats quickly. Always check your battery charge and cable connections first.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Solenoid

For a 1959 vehicle, finding New Old Stock (NOS) OEM parts can be difficult and expensive. New aftermarket parts are the most common and reliable choice for keeping your Studebaker on the road. The solenoid for the 4E1 is a relatively simple, remote-mounted component.

  • Standard Ignition: This is a widely available aftermarket brand. Their marketing states they use heavy-duty copper contacts and strong windings to ensure reliable performance and a long service life. For a component like this, a quality aftermarket part from a known manufacturer is a dependable option.

Since OEM parts are not in production, a new aftermarket solenoid is often the best balance of availability, price, and reliability. There is little practical difference in quality for this specific part on this vehicle compared to hunting down a rare and costly NOS part.

Check Your Cables: Owners of classic vehicles, especially Studebakers, often report that starting issues are caused by old, corroded, or undersized battery cables. Before replacing the solenoid, ensure your battery cables (both positive and negative) are clean, tight, and in good condition. This is a common point of failure that can mimic a bad solenoid.

Estimated Replacement Costs

The cost for a new aftermarket starter solenoid is very reasonable. Since the part is easy to access on the fender or firewall, professional installation should also be affordable.

Part/ServiceEstimated Cost
New Aftermarket Solenoid$49.14
Shop Labor$60 - $120
Total Estimated Cost$109 - $169

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I replace the starter solenoid on my 1959 Studebaker 4E1 myself?

Yes, this is a very feasible DIY job for most owners. The solenoid is typically mounted on the firewall or inner fender, making it easy to access. The process involves disconnecting the battery, carefully labeling and removing the wires, unbolting the old solenoid, and installing the new one.

Do I need to replace the whole starter?

No. On the 1959 Studebaker 4E1, the starter solenoid is a separate part mounted away from the starter motor. You can replace just the solenoid, which is much easier and less expensive than replacing the entire starter assembly.

Are there any recalls for the 1959 Studebaker 4E1 starter solenoid?

No, there are no active recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) on record with the NHTSA for this specific part on your vehicle.

What is the difference between a 6-volt and 12-volt solenoid?

They are designed for different electrical systems and are not interchangeable. The 1959 Studebaker 4E1 truck uses a 12-volt system. Using a 6-volt solenoid on a 12-volt system will cause it to burn out quickly. Ensure you are purchasing the correct 12-volt part.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 1539716

Voltage: 12V, Mounting Location: Remote (Firewall or Inner Fender)

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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Meet Wrenchy → Updated Jul 21, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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