1958 Studebaker 3E11 Brake Light Switch: A Comprehensive Guide
Everything you need to know about replacing the hydraulic brake light switch on your classic Studebaker truck.
- The 1958 Studebaker 3E11 uses a hydraulic pressure switch, not a mechanical one.
- A failing switch is a critical safety issue. Do not drive if your brake lights are not working.
- Aftermarket hydraulic switches are known to have reliability issues; consider installing a relay to improve longevity.
- Brake bleeding is a required step after replacing this part to ensure safety.
Understanding the Hydraulic Brake Light Switch in Your Studebaker
Your 1958 Studebaker 3E11 uses a type of brake light switch that was common for its time but is known for having issues. This hydraulic pressure switch is simple in design but can be a frequent point of failure in classic vehicles. It lives in the harsh environment of your engine bay or frame, activated by brake fluid pressure. When it fails, your brake lights may not turn on, creating a serious safety hazard.
A Note on Aftermarket Part Quality
For a vehicle of this age, new original parts from Studebaker are not available. Your only practical option is a new aftermarket part. Owners of many classic cars report that modern replacement hydraulic switches can fail prematurely. This is often due to internal components that are not robust enough to handle the electrical current, causing them to burn out. While brands like Standard Ignition build switches to meet original specifications, be aware that this part type is known to be less reliable than modern mechanical switches.
Symptoms of a Failing Brake Light Switch
Before you assume the switch is bad, always check the simple things first. Make sure your brake light bulbs are not burned out and that the fuse for the circuit is good.
- Brake Lights Don't Work: The most common and dangerous symptom. If the bulbs and fuse are good, the switch is the likely problem.
- Brake Lights Stay On: The switch can fail in the 'on' position, which will drain your battery and confuse other drivers.
- Intermittent Lights: The lights may flicker or only work when you press the brake pedal very hard. This indicates the switch is worn and unreliable.
- Brake Fluid Leak: In some cases, the switch itself can fail and leak brake fluid, which is a critical safety issue that needs immediate attention.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Part
For the 1958 Studebaker 3E11, the primary aftermarket option is the Standard Ignition brake light switch. This part is designed as a direct screw-in replacement.
- Standard Ignition (Part SLS27T): This is a widely available replacement. Standard Ignition states their switches use copper alloy conductors and designs that reduce arcing for longer life. However, be aware of a manufacturer warning that this part is not approved for use with silicone brake fluids (DOT 5). Many classic car owners report frequent failures with all brands of this type of switch.
Pro Tip: Consider a Relay
Many classic car enthusiasts install a relay in the brake light circuit. The relay takes the high-amperage load from the brake lights, while the new hydraulic switch only has to handle the very small current needed to activate the relay. This can dramatically increase the life of the switch.
Cost of Replacing the Brake Light Switch
| Part Type | Price Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) | $15 - $20 | This is the most common and practical option. Price is for the part only. |
| New Old Stock (NOS) OEM | N/A | Extremely rare and not a practical option. Rubber seals may be degraded after 60+ years. |
| Shop Labor | $75 - $150 | Includes installation and bleeding the brakes. Labor rates vary by location. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Where is the brake light switch located?
The brake light switch is not inside the cab by the pedal. It is a pressure switch screwed directly into the brake system, usually on the master cylinder or a nearby brake line junction block on the frame. It will have two wires connected to it.
Is this a difficult part to replace myself?
The physical replacement is easy for a DIY mechanic; you simply unscrew the old part and screw in the new one. However, this process will introduce air into your brake lines. You must bleed the brakes after replacement to ensure your brakes work safely. If you are not comfortable bleeding brakes, this job should be left to a professional.
Why do these switches fail so often?
The original design routes the full electrical current for the brake lights through two small internal contacts. Over time, this can cause arcing that burns out the contacts. The quality of materials in some modern replacements may also be lower than the originals, leading to a shorter lifespan.
Can I use silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid with the new switch?
The manufacturer for the Standard Ignition switch specifically warns against using it with silicone brake fluid. While some owners in forums debate this, it is safest to follow the manufacturer's instructions to ensure part longevity and avoid warranty issues.
Are there any recalls for the 1958 Studebaker 3E11 brake light switch?
No. There are no recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) on file with the NHTSA for this part on this vehicle. This is common for vehicles of this age, as digital records are incomplete.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: J201466
Thread Size: 1/8-27 NPT, Terminal Type: 2 Bullet Male
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.