1956 Studebaker Flight Hawk Brake Light Switch Guide
Keep your classic Studebaker safe and its brake lights working reliably with the right replacement switch.
- The 1956 Flight Hawk uses a hydraulic pressure switch on the master cylinder, not a mechanical switch by the pedal.
- The most common failure symptom is brake lights not working at all, which is a critical safety hazard.
- Replacement is a simple DIY task, but it is essential to bleed the brakes afterward to ensure safety.
- A new aftermarket switch from a brand like Standard Ignition is the most practical and reliable replacement option.
Understanding the Hydraulic Brake Light Switch
If your Flight Hawk's brake lights have stopped working, the brake light switch is a very common suspect. On classic vehicles from this era, the switch is not a button near the pedal but a pressure-activated switch located on the master cylinder under the hood. This design was common for the time but has known reliability issues. The original-style hydraulic switches are known to fail, sometimes requiring significant pedal pressure to activate, which means your lights may not turn on during gentle stops. They are also a potential source of brake fluid leaks.
Symptoms of a Failing Brake Light Switch
On a straightforward vehicle like a vintage Studebaker, the signs of a bad brake light switch are usually clear. The electrical system is simple, making diagnosis easier. Before assuming the switch is bad, always check your brake light bulbs and the fuse first. These are common failure points and are easier to replace.
- Brake Lights Do Not Turn On: This is the most common and dangerous symptom. If you have confirmed the bulbs and fuse are working, the switch is the next part to check.
- Brake Lights Stay On: If the switch fails in the "on" position, it will constantly send power to the brake lights. This can drain your battery when the car is parked and confuse other drivers.
- Flickering or Intermittent Brake Lights: A worn-out switch can cause the brake lights to flicker when you press the pedal or even when hitting bumps on the road.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Part
For a 1956 vehicle, finding a "New Old Stock" (NOS) OEM part is unlikely and would be very expensive. The standard and most practical solution is a new aftermarket replacement. Both available brands, Standard Ignition and Rostra Powertrain, produce modern replacements for this vintage application.
- Standard Ignition: A long-established brand known for quality ignition and electrical components. Their switches are often considered a reliable, go-to choice in the classic car community for direct replacement of original parts.
- Rostra Powertrain: Rostra is a large manufacturer of a wide range of vehicle electronics, including switches and sensors, often positioned as OE-quality replacements.
Pro Tip: Some Studebaker owners modify their cars to use a more modern, reliable mechanical switch at the brake pedal. This is a more involved custom job but eliminates the common failure points of the hydraulic switch. For a simple, direct replacement, a quality aftermarket hydraulic switch is the correct path.
| Part Type | Price Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New Aftermarket | $10.92 - $15.52 | The most common and practical option. Prices are for the part only. |
| New OEM (NOS) | N/A | New Old Stock parts are extremely rare and not typically available for purchase. |
| Shop Labor | $75 - $150 | Includes installation and bleeding the brakes, which is required. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Where is the brake light switch located on my 1956 Flight Hawk?
The brake light switch is not inside the car. It is a hydraulic pressure switch screwed into the master cylinder, which is located in the engine bay, typically on the driver's side firewall. It will have two electrical wires connected to it.
Is replacing the brake light switch a difficult DIY job?
For a DIY mechanic, this is a relatively easy job. It involves unplugging the wires, unscrewing the old switch, and quickly screwing in the new one to minimize brake fluid loss. However, you must bleed the brakes after replacement to remove any air that entered the system. Failure to bleed the brakes will result in a soft or non-functional brake pedal.
How can I test my old brake light switch?
After confirming the bulbs and fuse are good, you can test the switch. Unplug the two wires from the switch terminals. Use a small jumper wire to connect the two wire ends together. If the brake lights turn on, the switch is faulty and needs to be replaced. If they do not light up, the problem is elsewhere in the vehicle's wiring.
Do I need to use a specific type of brake fluid with a new switch?
Yes, this is important. Most aftermarket hydraulic switches are designed for use with standard DOT 3 brake fluid, which was original to the vehicle. Some owners convert to DOT 5 silicone fluid, but some reproduction switches are not compatible with it and can fail prematurely. Always verify fluid compatibility with your new part.
Technical Specifications
Hydraulic Pressure Activated, 2-Terminal, 1/8-27 NPT Thread
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.