Finding a Brake Light Switch For Your 1949-1953 Studebaker Commander
Your complete guide to sourcing a replacement brake light switch when new aftermarket parts aren't available.
- No new aftermarket switches are made specifically for this vehicle; you must source a compatible part or New Old Stock (NOS).
- A common and effective replacement is a hydraulic brake light switch intended for a classic VW Beetle.
- Upgrading to a modern mechanical switch is a popular modification that improves reliability and safety by removing the switch from the hydraulic system.
- A failing switch is a critical safety issue. Inspect and replace it immediately if your brake lights are not working correctly.
Symptoms of a Failing Brake Light Switch
A bad brake light switch can create serious safety issues. The signs are usually straightforward. If you notice any of these problems, you should inspect the switch.
- Brake Lights Don't Turn On: This is the most common and dangerous symptom. The switch is failing to complete the electrical circuit when you press the brake pedal.
- Brake Lights Stay On: The switch might be stuck in the 'on' position. This can drain your battery and confuse drivers behind you.
- Brake Fluid Leak: Since the switch is part of the hydraulic system, a crack in the switch body or a bad seal can cause brake fluid to leak. This is a critical safety failure that must be addressed immediately.
The Challenge: No Direct Aftermarket Replacements
You will not find a new aftermarket brake light switch listed specifically for a 1949-1953 Studebaker Commander in a typical auto parts store catalog. The original parts have been out of production for decades. However, you have three reliable options for getting your brake lights working again.
Option 1: Find a New Old Stock (NOS) Part
New Old Stock, or NOS, parts are original components that were never sold or installed. They have been sitting on shelves at dealerships or warehouses. These are direct-fit replacements. You can find them through Studebaker specialty vendors, online forums, and on sites like eBay. Be aware that part numbers can be tricky; for example, part number 191078 is listed for 1942-1950 models, so ensure you are buying the correct switch for your specific year.
Option 2: Use a Compatible Hydraulic Switch
This is the most common and practical solution. The type of hydraulic pressure switch used by Studebaker was a standardized part used by many automakers for decades. Owners have found that a brake light switch for a classic Volkswagen Beetle is a widely available and interchangeable part. You can ask your local auto parts store for a switch for a 1976 VW Beetle to find a compatible replacement.
Option 3: Upgrade to a Mechanical Switch
For improved reliability and safety, you can convert your system to a modern mechanical brake light switch. This upgrade removes the switch from the hydraulic system, eliminating a potential leak point. A mechanical switch is activated by the movement of the brake pedal arm itself, so the lights come on instantly without waiting for hydraulic pressure to build.
This modification requires some basic fabrication and wiring skills. Owners have successfully used common parts like the NAPA #SL169 switch, mounting it on a simple bracket near the top of the brake pedal. This is a popular and well-documented upgrade in the classic car community.
Cost Comparison
| Part Type | Estimated Cost (Part Only) |
|---|---|
| New Old Stock (NOS) OEM | $30 - $75+ |
| Compatible Hydraulic Switch (e.g., VW type) | $10 - $25 |
| Mechanical Switch Upgrade Parts | $10 - $30 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it hard to replace a Studebaker brake light switch?
Replacing the hydraulic switch is a simple job. You will unscrew the old one from the brake line fitting and screw in the new one. You will need to bleed the brakes afterward to remove any air that entered the system. The mechanical switch upgrade is more involved but is a common DIY project for those comfortable with minor fabrication and wiring.
How do I test my current brake light switch?
For a hydraulic switch, you can use a multimeter set to continuity. Disconnect the two wires. With the car off and no pressure on the brake pedal, the switch should have no continuity. Have a helper press the brake pedal firmly; the switch should now show continuity. If it fails either of these tests, it needs replacement.
Why should I consider upgrading to a mechanical switch?
A mechanical switch is generally more reliable and safer. It activates the brake lights the instant the pedal moves, rather than waiting for hydraulic pressure. It also removes a potential point of failure and fluid leakage from your brake system.
Will a switch from a different Studebaker model fit?
Possibly, but it's not guaranteed. Studebaker used different parts across years and models. For example, switches for 1942-1950 models are available but may not fit a 1951-1953 Commander. It is often easier to use a known compatible switch, like the VW Beetle type, than to risk buying the wrong Studebaker part.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 191078 (for 1942-50 models, reference only)
Switch Type: Hydraulic Pressure Activated Thread: 1/8-27 NPT (Common for this type of switch)
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.