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1941 Hudson Commodore Custom Series 17 Brake Light Switch Replacement Guide

Ensure your classic Hudson's brake lights are functioning correctly for safety and reliability.

3 minutes to read 1941-1941 Hudson Commodore Custom Series 17
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
0.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$50-$100
Used OEM Price
$10-$50
🚫 Do not drive — It is illegal and extremely unsafe to drive a vehicle with non-functioning brake lights.
Key Takeaways
  • The brake light switch is a critical safety part; driving without functional brake lights is illegal and dangerous.
  • For a 1941 Hudson, the switch is likely a hydraulic pressure type, which will require bleeding the brakes after replacement.
  • New aftermarket parts from a trusted brand like Standard Ignition are the most reliable and practical choice.
  • Replacement is a simple task for a DIYer, provided you are comfortable with the process of bleeding brakes.
The brake light switch on your 1941 Hudson Commodore is a critical safety component. For most American cars from this era, this is a hydraulic pressure switch. When you press the brake pedal, the hydraulic fluid pressure in your brake system increases. This pressure activates the switch, which then closes an electrical circuit, sending power to your rear brake lights and illuminating them. Without a functioning switch, your brake lights will not work, making it extremely dangerous to drive.

Symptoms of a Failing Brake Light Switch

A brake light switch is a simple part, but its failure can cause noticeable problems. For a classic vehicle like the 1941 Hudson, the symptoms are straightforward.

  • Brake Lights Do Not Turn On: This is the most common and dangerous symptom. If the switch fails to close the circuit, your brake lights will not illuminate when you press the pedal.
  • Brake Lights Stay On: If the switch fails in the 'on' position, it can cause the brake lights to remain lit even when you are not braking. This can drain your battery and confuse other drivers.
  • Intermittent Brake Lights: The lights may flicker or only work some of the time when you press the brake pedal. This indicates the internal components of the switch are worn and failing.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Part

For a 1941 vehicle, finding original factory parts is nearly impossible. Your options are typically New Old Stock (NOS), used parts from a donor car, or new aftermarket parts.

OEM vs. Aftermarket Quality

Original Equipment (OEM) switches for your Hudson are no longer manufactured. While you might find a New Old Stock (NOS) part, rubber and plastic components can become brittle and fail with age. A new aftermarket switch from a reputable manufacturer is often the most reliable and practical choice. Brands like Standard Ignition have been making quality electrical components for decades and are a trusted option for classic vehicles. For a simple but crucial part like this, a modern, newly manufactured switch provides the best reliability.

Available Brands: Standard Ignition

Standard Ignition is a well-established brand in the automotive aftermarket, known for producing quality replacement parts that meet or exceed original specifications. For a vehicle like the 1941 Hudson, where part availability is limited, Standard Ignition provides a reliable, newly manufactured option that you can trust for proper function and durability. Their switches are tested to ensure both mechanical and electrical performance.

Part TypeEstimated CostNotes
New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition)$15 - $20Most common and recommended option.
New OEMNot AvailableOriginal parts are no longer produced.
Used OEM$10 - $50+Availability is rare; condition is not guaranteed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the brake light switch on my 1941 Hudson mechanical or hydraulic?

Most American vehicles from this era, including Hudsons, used a hydraulic brake light switch. This switch is activated by the pressure of the brake fluid itself, not by the physical movement of the brake pedal. It is typically screwed into the master cylinder or an inline brake line fitting.

Can I replace the brake light switch myself?

Yes, this is a feasible DIY job for most owners with basic tools. The switch is usually accessible. However, because it is part of the hydraulic brake system, you will introduce air into the lines when you remove the old switch. You MUST bleed the brakes after installing the new switch to ensure your brakes function safely. If you are not comfortable with bleeding brakes, you should have a professional mechanic perform the replacement.

Why do these switches fail?

Failure is usually due to age. Over many decades, the internal seals can degrade, or the electrical contacts can wear out or corrode. Infrequent use of a classic car can also sometimes lead to switches sticking.

Are there any recalls for this part?

No. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which manages recalls, was formed in 1970. Recalls do not exist for vehicles from 1941. Any potential issues would have been addressed through dealer service bulletins at the time.

Technical Specifications

Hydraulic Pressure Activated Switch, typically with a 1/8-27 NPT thread.

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Article researched & written by
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Brake Light Switch for:
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