Sebring, Stratus, Eclipse & Galant Power Steering Pump Guide (1999-2002): Whining Noises and Replacement

Power Steering Pump for 2001-2002 Sebring/Stratus Coupe, 2000-2002 Eclipse, and 1999-2002 Galant

Symptoms of a Failing Power Steering Pump

A failing power steering pump rarely dies without warning. It will usually provide several audible and physical clues that it's in distress. Ignoring them can lead to a complete loss of power assist, making the vehicle very difficult to steer.

• Whining Noise That Changes with Engine Speed: This is the most common symptom. You'll hear a distinct whining or groaning sound from the engine bay that gets higher in pitch as you rev the engine. The noise is present even when you're not turning the wheel.
• Groaning or Squealing When Turning: The whining noise will often become louder or change to a groan when you turn the steering wheel, especially at low speeds or when turning the wheel all the way to its stop (full lock). A squealing sound on startup, particularly when cold, can also point to a failing pump or a slipping belt.
• Stiff or Heavy Steering: If turning the wheel, especially in a parking lot or at low speeds, suddenly requires much more effort, the pump is likely not producing enough hydraulic pressure. You might also feel a jerky or pulsating sensation in the steering wheel while turning.
• Slow Steering Response: The steering may feel sluggish or slow to respond to your inputs.
• Fluid Leaks: Finding puddles of reddish or amber-colored fluid under the front of your car is a sign of a leak in the power steering system. While the leak could be from a hose or the steering rack, the pump itself is a common source.
• Foamy or Discolored Fluid: Check the fluid in the power steering reservoir. If it looks foamy or has bubbles, air is getting into the system—often a sign of a bad pump seal or a leak on the suction side. If the fluid is dark and contains shiny metallic particles, it indicates severe internal wear of the pump.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there are no widespread recalls specifically for the power steering pump on all of these models, there are some relevant safety notices.

• NHTSA Recall 01V295001: This recall was issued for some 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse and 2000 Mitsubishi Galant models. It addresses an issue where leaking power steering fluid could potentially cause an under-hood fire or a loss of power steering assist, increasing the risk of a crash.
• Other Recalls: A recall (NHTSA 06V-001) was issued for the 1999-2000 Dodge Stratus for a leaking power steering hose, but this specifically affected models with the 2.4L engine, not the 3.0L V6 covered by this guide. Other recalls for these vehicles generally pertain to unrelated components like airbags or control arms.
• Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs): No major TSBs specifically addressing power steering pump failure on these 3.0L V6 models were found during research. Most issues are diagnosed based on the common symptoms described above.

Buying a Used Power Steering Pump: What to Look For

A high-quality, low-mileage used OEM power steering pump is often a better choice than a cheap, new aftermarket unit. Original Equipment (OEM) parts are built to a higher standard of quality and durability. Here’s what to inspect when buying a used pump.

• Verify Part Numbers: Match the part number to one of the known OEM numbers: MN101155, MR333535, MR403335, or MR493740.
• Check the Mileage: Power steering pumps often begin to show signs of wear after 70,000-100,000 miles. A pump from a vehicle with lower mileage is always a safer bet. Avoid pumps from vehicles with over 150,000 miles unless they are in exceptionally good condition.
• Physical Inspection: Look for any cracks in the aluminum pump housing. Check that the inlet and outlet ports are clean, and the threads are not damaged. Ensure there are no signs of heavy corrosion or previous fluid leaks (caked-on grime).
• Pulley and Shaft: The pulley should be free of cracks or major chips. Try to spin the central shaft by hand (the pulley may or may not be attached). It should spin smoothly with some resistance but without any grinding, clicking, or roughness. There should be no in-and-out or side-to-side play in the shaft.
• Source Vehicle Information: If possible, find out why the source vehicle was taken off the road. A part from a collision-damaged vehicle is generally preferable to one from a car that was scrapped due to high mileage or mechanical failure.

Replacement Overview and Related Parts

Replacing the power steering pump is a moderately difficult job that a skilled DIY mechanic can perform in a few hours. The most difficult part is often accessing the pump and removing the pulley.

Key Steps:

1. Drain the System: Use a turkey baster or fluid pump to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir. Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch spills.
2. Remove the Serpentine Belt: Relieve tension on the belt tensioner and slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley.
3. Remove the Pulley: This is a critical step. You MUST use a dedicated power steering pulley puller/installer tool. Using a standard gear puller will likely damage or bend the pulley.
4. Disconnect Hoses: Disconnect the high-pressure and low-pressure (return) lines from the back of the pump. Be prepared for more fluid to drain out.
5. Unbolt the Pump: Remove the mounting bolts that secure the pump to its bracket and remove the pump from the vehicle.
6. Install the New Pump: Install the pulley onto the new pump using the installer tool. Mount the new pump, reconnect the hoses (using new O-rings if required), and reinstall the serpentine belt.
7. Flush and Bleed the System: This is the most important step for longevity. Fill the new reservoir with the correct fluid. With the front wheels off the ground and the engine OFF, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock about 10-20 times to bleed air out of the system. Check and top off the fluid level. Start the engine for a few seconds, then shut it off and recheck the level. Repeat until the fluid level is stable and no more bubbles appear in the reservoir.

Related Parts to Replace:

• Power Steering Fluid: Always use new, clean fluid. Never reuse old fluid.
• Serpentine Belt: Since you have to remove it anyway, it's a perfect time to replace a worn or cracked belt.
• Power Steering Hoses: Inspect the high-pressure and return hoses for cracks, brittleness, or leaks. A leaking return hose can suck air into the system and cause a whining noise, mimicking a bad pump.

Installation Torque Specs & Special Procedures

• Power Steering Pump Bracket Bolts: 44 ± 10 Nm (approx. 33 ± 7 ft-lbs).
• Special Tool: A power steering pulley puller/installer kit is required.
• Bleeding Procedure: The system MUST be bled of all air to prevent noise and damage to the new pump. Failure to do so is a common cause of immediate failure in a new pump.

Cost of Replacing the Power Steering Pump

The cost can vary significantly depending on the type of part used and whether you do the work yourself. Labor costs for a professional installation typically range from $200 to $500.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)