OBD-II Code U1407: Implausible Wheel Speed Signal / Implausible Engine Torque Request

What Does U1407 Mean?

U1407 is a network communication code with two distinct meanings. On most vehicles, the main computer (ECU) receives an erratic or impossible signal from the right front wheel speed sensor. On Stellantis (FCA) vehicles (Jeep, Dodge, Chrysler), it means 'Implausible Engine Torque Request Signal Received.' This indicates a communication breakdown between the Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM), almost always caused by a faulty electronic throttle body.

Technical definition: Implausible Right Front Wheel Speed Signal Received / Implausible Engine Torque Request Signal Received. A control module (PCM or TCM) received a data signal from another module that contradicts other vehicle inputs. The specific meaning depends entirely on the vehicle manufacturer.

Can I Drive With U1407?

Yes, But With Caution. Driving is possible but carries significant risks. If the cause is a wheel speed sensor, your ABS and Traction Control are disabled. In a panic stop, your wheels lock, causing complete loss of steering control and increasing wet stopping distance by 15-25%. If the cause is a faulty throttle body (common on FCA vehicles), the car enters 'limp mode' unpredictably, drastically cutting power. 🎬 Watch this video to see what limp mode looks like. Prolonged limp mode driving damages the transmission.

Common Causes

• Failing Electronic Throttle Body (ETB) (Very Common) — On Jeep, Dodge, and Chrysler vehicles, the internal electronics or plastic gears of the throttle body fail, sending implausible engine torque signals and triggering codes U1407, U1424, and U1425.
• Faulty Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (Very Common) — On non-FCA vehicles, the sensor fails internally due to harsh environments, moisture, heat, and vibration near the wheel.
• Carbon Buildup / Icing in Throttle Body (Common) — Carbon deposits or ice build up inside the throttle body, causing the throttle plate to stick. The actual throttle position fails to match the requested position, generating implausible signal codes.
• Damaged Wiring or Connector (Common) — The wire leading to the sensor or the connector itself breaks, corrodes, or shorts out due to road debris, rodent damage, or aging.
• Damaged or Corroded ABS Tone Ring (Common) — The toothed or magnetic ring the wheel speed sensor reads cracks, rusts, or clogs with metallic debris, preventing a clean rotation reading.
• Failing Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly (Less Common) — A worn-out wheel bearing creates excessive play, damaging the integrated wheel speed sensor or tone ring and causing a bad signal.
• Low Battery Voltage or Bad Ground (Less Common) — A weak battery, failing alternator, or corroded ground strap causes unpredictable module behavior, leading to a cascade of communication codes.
• Outdated PCM Software / Software Glitch (Less Common) — The Powertrain Control Module requires a software update to handle sensor inputs correctly (e.g., TSB 18-064-16 for 2012-2014 Jeep Compass/Patriot).
• Faulty Control Module (PCM/TCM/ABS) (Rare) — The computer module processing the signals fails internally. This rare and expensive cause is diagnosed only after ruling out sensors, wiring, and throttle body issues.

Symptoms

• Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) 'Lightning Bolt' Light On — On FCA vehicles, a red lightning bolt symbol illuminates or flashes, indicating a critical fault in the electronic throttle control system.
• Vehicle in 'Limp Mode' — The engine severely reduces power, limiting the car to low speeds to prevent drivetrain damage.
• ABS and Traction Control Disabled — The ABS and Traction Control warning lights illuminate, and the systems fail to engage during hard braking or slippery conditions.
• Check Engine Light On — The general malfunction indicator lamp illuminates, often alongside specific warning lights.
• Erratic Speedometer — The speedometer behaves erratically or stops working if it relies on the faulty wheel speed sensor.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Tap your situation to follow the diagnostic path that matches what you're seeing on this code.

Common Fixes & Costs

• Replace Electronic Throttle Body — Parts: $80-$350, Labor: $150-$250, ~1.2 hr book time (Intermediate)
• Replace Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor — Parts: $50-$150, Labor: $100-$150, ~1 hr book time (DIY)
• Repair Wiring Harness — Parts: $10-$50, Labor: $100-$200, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
• Replace Right Front Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly — Parts: $50-$350, Labor: $100-$450, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
• Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM) — Parts: $0, Labor: $100-$200, ~1 hr book time (Professional)

DIY vs Professional

• Replace Electronic Throttle Body — Beginner:
  Tools: Basic socket set (8mm, 10mm), screwdrivers, pliers.
• Replace Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor — Beginner:
  Tools: Jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set (10mm), pliers.
• Repair Wiring Harness — Beginner:
  Tools: Wire strippers, wire cutters, soldering iron, heat shrink tubing, multimeter.
• Replace Right Front Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly — Beginner:
  Tools: Breaker bars, torque wrench, large axle nut socket, slide hammer.
• Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM) — Beginner:
  Tools: J-2534 Pass-Thru device, laptop, battery maintainer, OEM software subscription.

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide

When a used part is worth it: For an electronic throttle body, a used OEM part from a low-mileage (under 80k miles) wrecked vehicle is a cost-effective alternative to a new aftermarket part, often providing better reliability than a cheap clone.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 80000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

Donor quality checklist:

• Verify the donor vehicle's mileage and ensure it was not scrapped due to engine or electrical failure.
• Match the part number exactly, including suffix letters. Superseded part numbers fail to communicate properly.
• Inspect the electrical connector for corrosion, bent pins, or damage.

Decision logic:

• If The vehicle is newer or has low mileage (<80K miles) → Buy a new OEM part to ensure longevity and compatibility.
• If The vehicle is older (>150K miles) and budget is the primary concern → A used OEM part or high-quality aftermarket brand is a reasonable choice.
• If The part has a known high failure rate (like the FCA throttle body) → Favor a new OEM part with the latest revisions over a used one nearing the end of its life.

Warranty tradeoff: Used parts typically include a 30-90 day part-only warranty. New aftermarket parts offer 1-year to limited lifetime warranties. New OEM parts carry a 1-2 year warranty but require dealer installation.

Worst-case if a used part fails: $200-$400 if a used part fails shortly after installation, representing repeat labor and replacement part costs.

What Happens If You Wait — Timeline

1. 0-1 month: Initial fault occurs. Intermittent ETC light and brief limp mode events, or ABS/TCS lights illuminate. Vehicle remains drivable. (MPG impact: 0-5%% · Added cost: $0-$50 in wasted fuel from inefficient operation.)
2. 1-3 months: Fault becomes persistent. Limp mode happens unpredictably on the highway. ABS/TCS systems are permanently offline. (MPG impact: 5-15%% · Added cost: $50-$200 in wasted fuel. Increased safety risk from sudden power loss.)
3. 3-6 months: Prolonged limp mode causes excessive transmission heat and strain. Inefficient engine operation overloads the catalytic converter. (MPG impact: 10-20%% · Added cost: $1500-$3500. Risk of premature transmission wear or catalytic converter failure.)
4. 6+ months: Catastrophic failure. The transmission fails completely, or a clogged catalytic converter destroys the engine. (MPG impact: 20%+% · Added cost: $3000-$7000+. The cost of a new transmission or engine far exceeds the original repair.)

Cost of Not Fixing It

• 0-1 month: Unpredictable limp mode activation creates a safety hazard. Disabled ABS increases skid risk. Expect a 5-10% drop in fuel economy. (Added cost: Negligible, but high safety risk.)
• 1-6 months: Prolonged limp mode driving causes excessive transmission heat buildup, leading to premature wear. Unburned fuel from throttle issues overheats the catalytic converter. (Added cost: $1500-$3500 (Catalytic Converter or Transmission Repair))
• 6+ months: Catastrophic failure. A clogged catalytic converter causes extreme backpressure, destroying the engine. A failed transmission leaves the vehicle undrivable. (Added cost: $3000-$7000+ (Engine or Transmission Replacement))

Diagnosis Steps

1. Read Manufacturer-Specific Codes
   Use an advanced scanner to read the manufacturer-specific definition. If you are in a Jeep, Dodge, or Chrysler, and the definition is 'Implausible Engine Torque Request,' proceed with throttle body diagnostics. Otherwise, diagnose the right front wheel speed sensor.
   Tools: Advanced OBD-II Scanner (Beginner)
2. Scan for Live Data (PIDs)
   For a wheel speed issue, monitor live data for all four 'Wheel Speed Sensor' PIDs while driving; the right front reading will be zero or erratic. For a throttle issue, monitor 'Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)' and 'Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS)' PIDs; the TPS percentage must increase smoothly from ~15% to ~90% corresponding to pedal input.
   Tools: Advanced OBD-II Scanner (Intermediate)
3. Visual Inspection
   For a wheel speed code, remove the right front wheel and inspect the sensor, wiring, and connector for breaks or corrosion. For a throttle body code, inspect the electronic throttle body, connector, and wiring for obvious damage.
   Tools: Jack, Jack Stands, Lug Wrench, Flashlight (Beginner)
4. Inspect Tone Ring / Clean Throttle Body
   For a wheel speed code, inspect the ABS tone ring for cracks, missing teeth, or heavy rust. For a throttle body code, remove the air intake hose and clean heavy carbon buildup from the throttle plate using dedicated cleaner and a lint-free cloth.
   Tools: Flashlight, Throttle Body Cleaner, Cloths (Intermediate)
5. Check for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)
   Search for TSBs related to your vehicle's make, model, year, and code. Some models require a PCM software update to resolve this code without replacing parts.
   Tools: Internet Access (Beginner)
6. Check the Wheel Bearing
   Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle it. Any play, movement, or humming noise indicates a bad wheel bearing damaging the integrated sensor or tone ring.
   Tools: Jack, Jack Stands, Hands (Beginner)
7. Pro Tip: Test Passive (2-Wire) Wheel Speed Sensor
   Disconnect the sensor and set a multimeter to Ohms (Ω). A good passive sensor reads between 1,000 and 2,500 Ohms. Alternatively, set the multimeter to AC Volts, spin the wheel by hand, and verify a generated voltage of at least 0.25V AC. No reading indicates a failed sensor.
   Tools: Multimeter, Jack, Jack Stands (Advanced)
8. Pro Tip: Test Active (3-Wire) Wheel Speed Sensor
   Do NOT use a resistance test. Verify 5V or 12V reference voltage and ground at the harness connector. Back-probe the signal wire with an oscilloscope while spinning the wheel; a missing or erratic square wave indicates a bad sensor.
   Tools: Multimeter, Oscilloscope (Advanced)
9. Pro Tip: Test Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Voltage Sweep
   Back-probe the TPS signal wire at the throttle body connector. With key on, engine off, closed-throttle voltage sits around 0.5V. Slowly press the accelerator; voltage must sweep smoothly to 4.5V. Dropouts or spikes confirm internal TPS failure.
   Tools: Multimeter, Back-probe Kit, Wiring Diagram (Advanced)

When This Code Triggers (Freeze-Frame Conditions)

• Engine Coolant Temp: 180-200°F (Fully warmed up, during steady-state driving.)
• RPM: 1500-2500 RPM (Light to moderate acceleration or steady cruise.)
• Engine Load: 25-60% (The engine is under a consistent load, not idling or at wide-open throttle.)
• Vehicle Speed: 35-60 mph (Triggers during highway or steady suburban driving when the computer expects stable signals.)

Related Codes

• C0034 — The SAE standard code for 'Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit.' If U1407 appears with C0034 on a non-FCA vehicle, it confirms the wheel speed issue.
• U1424 — Implausible Engine Torque Signal. Appears alongside U1407 and U1425 on FCA vehicles, confirming the fault is within the electronic throttle control system.
• U1425 — Implausible Pedal Position Signal. The third code in the FCA trio, meaning the computer sees a conflict between pedal request and actual throttle position.
• U0401 — Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM. Reinforces the diagnosis of a communication breakdown caused by the faulty throttle body.

Climate & Environmental Factors

• Cold & Humid Weather: Increases throttle body icing. Rapidly expanding air drops in temperature, forming ice on the throttle plate and triggering implausible signal codes.
• Road Salt / Coastal Regions: Accelerates corrosion of electrical connectors, wiring, and ABS components. Salt causes the ABS tone ring to rust and delaminate, corrupting the signal.
• High Altitude: Thinner air requires different throttle mapping, making a borderline faulty throttle body more likely to trigger performance codes.

How to Talk to a Mechanic About This Code

Say this: "I have a U1407 code on my [Make/Model]. If you see ABS lights, please check the right front wheel speed sensor circuit. If you see a 'lightning bolt' light and it's in limp mode, please focus on the electronic throttle body. Can you start by checking the manufacturer-specific code definition?"

This directs the technician to the correct diagnostic path based on symptoms, saving diagnostic time and preventing them from replacing a wheel sensor when the problem is the throttle body.

Avoid saying:

• 'My check engine light is on, can you look at it?'
• 'The internet said it's the wheel sensor, just replace that.'
• 'Just fix whatever is wrong.'

Questions to ask before authorizing the repair:

• What was the manufacturer-specific definition of the U1407 code on my vehicle?
• If it's the throttle body, did you try cleaning it first?
• If it's the wheel speed sensor, did you inspect the wiring and tone ring for damage before condemning the sensor?
• Will you be using an OEM or aftermarket part, and what is the warranty?

Where to Take It: Dealer vs Independent vs Chain

• Dealer: Recommended if you suspect a software issue or have a newer FCA vehicle requiring the latest TSBs.
  Best for: Vehicles under warranty., If a PCM software update (TSB) is required., Complex diagnoses on newer FCA vehicles where the code's meaning is ambiguous.
  Downsides: Highest labor rates ($150-$250/hr)., Quick to replace entire assemblies rather than attempting cleaning or wiring repairs. (Typical cost: +50% vs. baseline)
• Independent Shop: Best fit for most scenarios, provided you choose a reputable shop with ASE-certified technicians.
  Best for: Out-of-warranty vehicles., Straightforward repairs like a wheel speed sensor or throttle body replacement.
  Downsides: Diagnostic capabilities vary. Ensure the shop has modern scan tools capable of reading manufacturer-specific codes. (Typical cost: +0% vs. baseline)
• Chain Shop: AVOID for initial diagnosis. The ambiguity of U1407 requires a higher level of diagnostic skill.
  Best for: Simple, clear-cut part replacements where the diagnosis is already 100% certain.
  Downsides: High risk of misdiagnosis with the FCA-specific throttle body issue., Technicians often lack advanced scanners to interpret network 'U' codes correctly. (Typical cost: -10% vs. baseline)

When to Walk Away From the Repair

If the estimated repair cost exceeds 40-50% of the car's private-party value, seriously consider selling or trading it in.

• Car worth $4000, fix is $600: Fix it. This repair is well below the threshold and restores key safety features or driveability.
• Car worth $3000, fix is $1800: Walk away. The repair cost is over 50% of the car's value.
• Car worth $8000, fix is $3500: Borderline. This indicates U1407 led to catalytic converter or transmission damage. Get a second opinion before proceeding.

What Scan Tool You Need for This Code

Minimum: A scanner that reads manufacturer-specific definitions and accesses ABS (Chassis) codes. A generic code reader is useless for U1407.

A basic $20 scanner only shows 'U1407' without context. It cannot tell you if it's a wheel speed sensor or a throttle body issue, leading to expensive misdiagnosis.

Budget: BlueDriver Pro (~$100) — Connects to your smartphone via Bluetooth. Reads manufacturer-specific codes, accesses ABS codes, and shows live data for all four wheel speed sensors.

Mid-range: Foxwell NT510 Elite / Autel MaxiCOM MK808 (~$150-350) — Offers bidirectional control to test components directly. Performs special functions like ABS bleeding and initiates the throttle relearn procedure on FCA vehicles.

Professional: XTOOL D7 / Launch X431 Series (~$450-900) — Professional-level tools with full bidirectional control, ECU coding, and FCA AutoAuth for secure gateway access on newer Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge vehicles.

How to Clear the Code After You Fix It

1. Use an OBD-II scan tool to clear the diagnostic trouble codes.
2. Perform a throttle relearn procedure if the throttle body was replaced or cleaned.
3. Perform a complete drive cycle to allow the vehicle's readiness monitors to run.

Drive cycle (~30 minutes): A generic drive cycle includes a cold start (after sitting 8+ hours), 2-3 minutes of idling, 10-15 minutes of steady highway driving (around 55 mph), followed by 10-15 minutes of city/suburban stop-and-go driving. This operates the vehicle under various conditions to complete all system self-tests.

Readiness monitors affected: Catalyst Monitor, Evaporative System Monitor, O2 Sensor Monitor

Before emissions retest: drive at least 100 miles to fully set monitors.

Watch out for:

• Disconnecting the battery resets all readiness monitors to 'Not Ready', guaranteeing an emissions test failure.
• The code returns immediately if the underlying mechanical or electrical fault remains unfixed.
• Forgetting the throttle relearn procedure after replacing the part guarantees the code returns on FCA vehicles.

Will This Fail Emissions / State Inspection?

Yes — this code typically fails an OBD-II emissions inspection.

• California: An active U1407 code is an automatic failure. After repair, the vehicle must complete a full drive cycle to set all required readiness monitors to 'Ready' before re-testing.
• New York: The NYS DMV inspection includes an OBD-II scan. An illuminated Check Engine Light and an active U-code results in immediate failure.
• Texas: In the 17 counties requiring emissions testing, an active U1407 code causes the vehicle to fail the OBD-II inspection.

Most Commonly Affected Vehicles

• Jeep Patriot (2007-2017) — U1407 appears alongside U1424 and U1425, pointing to a faulty electronic throttle body (Part #04891735AC), not a wheel speed sensor.
• Jeep Compass (2007-2017) — Frequently indicates a throttle body issue causing limp mode. TSB 18-064-16 addresses this with a PCM software update for 2012-2014 models.
• Dodge Avenger (2008-2014) — Shares the 2.4L engine with Jeep models and exhibits the exact same U1407 throttle body failure.
• Dodge Caliber (2007-2012) — Prone to throttle body failures where U1407 triggers limp mode and the electronic throttle control (ETC) light.
• Chrysler 200 (2011-2014) — Displays U1407 in conjunction with throttle body or transmission communication faults.
• Ram 1500 (2013-2018) — Experiences U1407 related to CAN bus communication issues, requiring network stability diagnosis.
• Ford F-150 (2011-2017) — Relates to network communication errors, often triggered by a failing battery or bad ground destabilizing the network.
• Hyundai Sonata (2011-2019) — Linked to faults in the electronic throttle control system or transmission oil pump communication.

Manufacturer-Specific Notes

• Jeep, Chrysler, Dodge (Stellantis/FCA): U1407 does NOT mean a wheel speed sensor issue. It means 'Implausible Engine Torque Request Signal Received' and is almost always caused by a failing electronic throttle body.
• Ford: 'U' codes are frequently symptoms of an unstable electrical system. Always test the battery and charging system before condemning modules.
• Dodge: On specific models, U1407 refers to an 'Exhaust Flap Switchover Valve,' highlighting the absolute necessity of using a scanner with manufacturer-specific definitions.

Real Owner Stories

2014 Jeep Patriot at 113K miles

The Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) light flashed, followed by Check Engine and Traction Control lights. The vehicle entered 'limp mode,' sputtering and unable to exceed 20 mph.

Outcome: Cleaning cleared the codes. After a throttle relearn procedure, the vehicle returned to normal operation. Total cost was under $15.

Lesson: On an FCA vehicle with the U1407/U1424/U1425 trio, always clean the throttle body before replacing it to save hundreds of dollars.

2011 Dodge Caliber with 100K+ miles

Car lost power and entered limp mode with ETC, traction, and engine lights on. Codes U1407, U1424, and U1425 were present.

Outcome: The issue persisted, highlighting that cheap aftermarket replacement parts are often faulty out of the box.

Lesson: If a replacement part fails quickly, suspect a poor-quality part or misdiagnosis. Inspect the wiring harness and check for PCM software updates before replacing the part again.

Non-FCA Vehicle (e.g., Ford F-150) with U1407

ABS and Traction Control lights illuminated, but the vehicle drove normally. A generic scanner showed code U1407.

Outcome: Visual inspection found frayed wiring to the right front wheel speed sensor. Splicing the harness fixed the issue for minimal cost.

Lesson: On non-FCA vehicles, U1407 is a symptom of a specific 'C' code. Always inspect wiring and connectors before replacing the sensor.

How to Prevent This Code From Triggering

• Clean the Electronic Throttle Body. (Every 50,000 miles or during a major tune-up.) — Carbon deposits cause the throttle plate to stick, leading to implausible position signals and triggering limp mode.
• Clean wheel wells and sensor connectors. (Annually, especially after winter in regions using road salt.) — Salt and debris corrode wheel speed sensor connectors. Rinsing and applying dielectric grease prevents moisture intrusion.
• Maintain a healthy battery and clean ground connections. (Test battery annually, check grounds every 30,000 miles.) — A weak battery causes voltage drops, leading to a cascade of communication errors like U1407 even when no primary component failed.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the biggest misdiagnosis with code U1407?

The most common mistake is assuming U1407 on a Jeep, Dodge, or Chrysler refers to a wheel speed sensor. Technicians waste time diagnosing the ABS system when the code actually points to the electronic throttle body. Always verify the manufacturer's definition with an advanced scanner.

What does the blinking lightning bolt light mean on my Jeep or Dodge?

The flashing red lightning bolt is the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) warning light. It indicates a critical fault in the throttle body system, forcing the vehicle into 'limp mode' to prevent damage.

I replaced my throttle body, but the U1407 code came back. What did I do wrong?

After replacing an electronic throttle body, you must perform a 'throttle relearn' procedure to calibrate the engine computer. Skipping this step guarantees the code will return. You can usually complete this without tools using a specific sequence of key turns and pedal presses.

I cleaned my throttle body but the code is still there. Now what?

If a thorough cleaning fails to solve the problem, the internal electronics or motor inside the throttle body assembly have failed. The entire throttle body unit must be replaced.

Can a bad battery cause code U1407?

Yes. A failing battery or alternator causes unstable voltage across the electrical system. This disrupts CAN bus communication, leading modules to log error codes like U1407 even when primary components are fine.

Is it safe to drive in the rain with code U1407?

It is significantly less safe. If the code disables your ABS, your wheels lock up during sudden stops. This greatly increases skid risk and wet stopping distances.

Why did my traction control light come on with the ABS light?

Traction and stability control systems rely on the exact same wheel speed sensors as the ABS. When a sensor's signal is lost, all interconnected safety systems shut down simultaneously.

Do I need to replace the sensors in pairs, like brake pads?

No. Wheel speed sensors do not wear out as a pair; only replace the specific sensor that failed.

Key Takeaways

• U1407 means 'Implausible Right Front Wheel Speed Signal' on most vehicles, but indicates a failing Electronic Throttle Body on Jeep, Dodge, and Chrysler models.
• Seeing U1407 alongside codes U1424 and U1425 on an FCA vehicle guarantees the electronic throttle body requires cleaning or replacement.
• Driving with U1407 increases wet stopping distances by 15-25% due to disabled ABS, or risks sudden highway power loss from 'limp mode' activation.
• Always read the manufacturer-specific code definition using an advanced OBD-II scanner before replacing parts to avoid a $300 misdiagnosis.