OBD-II Code P1244: Manufacturer-Specific Fault Guide

What Does P1244 Mean?

DTC P1244 is a manufacturer-specific code with entirely different meanings depending on your vehicle's make. For Ford, it indicates an alternator communication fault. For Acura, it flags a throttle position error. On GM Duramax trucks, it means an injector circuit failure, and for Volkswagen, it isolates a cylinder 8 fuel injector problem. You must identify your vehicle's make to diagnose this code.

Technical definition: The formal SAE/OBD-II definition for P1244 varies by manufacturer. Key variations include: Ford: 'Alternator Load Input Failed High'; Acura: 'Insufficient Closed Throttle Position Detected'; GM/Duramax: 'Injector Driver Circuit Fault'; Volkswagen: 'Fuel Injector for Cylinder 8 (N86): Open Circuit'; Toyota: 'Wastegate Valve Malfunction'; Subaru: 'Wastegate Control Solenoid Valve Malfunction Low Input'.

Can I Drive With P1244?

No — Do Not Drive. Driving risks vary by manufacturer, but all pose immediate hazards. [Ford] A failing charging system leaves you stranded in 15-30 minutes once the battery dies. [GM Duramax] An active injector misfire dumps unburnt fuel, destroying the catalytic converter and adding $2,000+ to repairs. [Acura] Unpredictable throttle response creates a direct safety hazard in traffic. Stop driving and diagnose immediately.

Common Causes

• [GM Duramax] Chafed Wiring Harness to the FICM (Very Common) — On 2004-2005 GM Duramax LLY engines, the wiring harness leading to the Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) rubs against a metal bracket, causing shorts in the injector driver circuits. This is the definitive leading cause for this platform.
• [Ford] Faulty Alternator or Voltage Regulator (Very Common) — On Ford vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects that the alternator's load input signal is higher than expected, almost always due to an internal short or failure within the alternator itself.
• [Subaru] Cracked Wastegate Vacuum Lines (Very Common) — The small rubber vacuum lines connected to the wastegate control solenoid become brittle with heat and age, leading to cracks and vacuum leaks. This frequently triggers P1244 on turbocharged Subarus.
• [Acura] Dirty or Failing Throttle Body (Common) — The engine computer detects the throttle plate is not closing properly. Heavy carbon buildup restricting the butterfly valve's movement is the primary culprit.
• [Ford] Damaged Charging System Wiring (Common) — Corroded, loose, or shorted wires between the alternator and PCM trigger P1244. The 'LI' (Load Input) signal wire from the alternator's 3-pin connector is highly susceptible to breakage.
• [GM Duramax] Poor Pin Tension at Injector Connector (Common) — The female pins inside the injector electrical connector spread over time, creating an open circuit. This is routinely fixed by 'ice picking' the connector to tighten the pins.
• [Toyota/Subaru] Faulty Wastegate Control Solenoid (Common) — The wastegate control solenoid, which regulates turbo boost pressure, fails internally or seizes, preventing proper boost management.
• [Volkswagen] Failed Fuel Injector on Cylinder 8 (Common) — This code points directly to an open circuit for the fuel injector on cylinder 8, almost exclusively caused by a failed internal injector coil.
• [GM Duramax] Failed Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) (Less Common) — If the wiring is intact, the FICM's internal power board has failed and cannot send the required 48V signals to fire the injectors.
• [Acura] Faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (Less Common) — A failing Throttle Position Sensor sends incorrect voltage data, tricking the computer into thinking the throttle plate remains open.

Symptoms

• Check Engine Light is On — The vehicle's engine computer illuminates the Check Engine Light on the dashboard to alert the driver of an active fault.
• [GM Duramax/VW] Rough Idle, Misfire, and Black Smoke — A dead cylinder caused by the injector fault makes the engine shake violently, run rough, and emit excessive black smoke from the exhaust.
• [Ford] Battery Light On and Electrical Issues — The red battery warning light illuminates. You will experience dimming headlights, slow power windows, and a dead battery within 30 minutes of driving.
• [Acura] Poor Acceleration or Stalling at Idle — The car hesitates, feels sluggish, or stalls completely when coming to a stop because the engine's air intake is mismanaged.
• [Toyota/Subaru] Loss of Power and Erratic Boost — The vehicle feels sluggish and fails to build turbo boost properly, or the boost surges unpredictably during acceleration.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Tap your situation to follow the diagnostic path that matches what you're seeing on this code.

Common Fixes & Costs

• [GM Duramax] Repair Chafed Wiring Harness — Parts: $5-$25, Labor: $100-$300, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
• [Ford] Replace Alternator — Parts: $200-$400, Labor: $150-$250, ~1.2 hr book time (Intermediate)
• [Acura] Clean or Replace Throttle Body Assembly — Parts: $15-$750, Labor: $100-$250, ~1.0 hr book time (Intermediate)
• [Subaru] Replace Wastegate Control Solenoid — Parts: $100-$150, Labor: $80-$150, ~0.7 hr book time (Intermediate)
• [GM Duramax] FICM Repair Service or Replacement — Parts: $450-$1400, Labor: $100-$200, ~0.8 hr book time (Intermediate)

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide

When a used part is worth it: For complex electronic modules like a GM FICM, a professionally repaired or remanufactured unit is a better value than a used junkyard part. Used mechanical parts like throttle bodies are viable if from a low-mileage donor.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 75000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

Donor quality checklist:

• Verify the part number matches exactly; electronic modules are rarely interchangeable.
• Prefer units from professional rebuilders who upgrade known weak components.
• Avoid parts from regions with heavy road salt use due to corrosion.

Decision logic:

• If The part is a Ford 'Smart Charge' alternator → Buy a new high-quality OEM or equivalent part; cheap aftermarket units cause repeat failures.
• If The part is a GM LLY FICM → A professional repair service is the best option, as new units are scarce and used ones are unreliable.
• If The part is an electronic throttle body → New or remanufactured is strongly preferred over used due to internal sensor wear.

Warranty tradeoff: Used parts offer a 30-90 day warranty. Remanufactured parts come with a 1-year to limited lifetime warranty. New OEM parts carry a 1-2 year warranty.

Worst-case if a used part fails: $500-$1500

What Happens If You Wait — Timeline

1. 0-2 weeks: [All] Check Engine Light is on. [Ford] Battery light flickers. [GM/Subaru/VW] No other noticeable symptoms yet. (MPG impact: 0-5%% · Added cost: $0)
2. 2 weeks - 3 months: [Ford] Battery is chronically undercharged. [GM/VW] Intermittent misfires on #8 cylinder cause rough idle. [Acura] Occasional hesitation at idle. [Subaru] Boost is inconsistent. (MPG impact: 5-10%% · Added cost: $50-$200)
3. 3-6 months: [GM/VW] Constant misfire sends unburnt fuel into the exhaust, overheating the catalytic converter. [Ford] Failing regulator sends voltage spikes, risking the PCM. [Acura] Stalling becomes frequent. (MPG impact: 10-20%% · Added cost: $800-$1500)
4. 6+ months: [GM/VW] Catalytic converter substrate melts and clogs. [Ford] PCM or other modules are destroyed by voltage spikes. [Subaru] Poor boost control causes turbo wear. (MPG impact: 20-50%% · Added cost: $2500-$4500)

Cost of Not Fixing It

• Immediate: [Ford] Stranded vehicle due to dead battery. [Acura] Unpredictable stalling in traffic. [GM/Subaru] Reduced power and poor drivability. (Added cost: $100-$300)
• 1-3 months: [GM/VW] An injector misfire dumps raw fuel into the exhaust, destroying the catalytic converter. [Ford] Voltage spikes from a bad regulator damage the PCM. (Added cost: $1200-$2800)
• 3+ months: [GM] Continued misfiring causes cylinder washing, stripping oil from the cylinder walls and causing premature engine wear. (Added cost: $3000-$8000)

Diagnosis Steps

1. Identify Your Vehicle's Manufacturer
   The meaning of P1244 is completely different for Ford, Acura, GM, VW, Toyota, and Subaru. All subsequent diagnostic steps depend entirely on this information.
   Tools: Vehicle Owner's Manual (Beginner)
2. Scan for Accompanying Codes
   Check for other trouble codes. On a GM Duramax, P1244 is usually accompanied by P0308 (Cylinder 8 Misfire). On a Ford, it appears with P1246. This context dictates the repair path.
   Tools: OBD-II Scanner (Beginner)
3. [Ford] Test the Charging System Voltage
   Check the battery voltage with the engine off (~12.6V) and running (~13.7-14.7V). A running voltage below 13.2V or above 15V confirms an alternator or regulator failure.
   Tools: Multimeter (Beginner)
4. [GM Duramax] Inspect the FICM Wiring Harness
   Visually inspect the wiring harness near the Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) on the driver's side valve cover. Look for exposed copper where the harness rubs against the metal FICM bracket.
   Tools: Flashlight, Mirror (Intermediate)
5. [Acura] Inspect the Throttle Body
   Remove the air intake tube. Look for heavy black carbon buildup around the throttle plate that prevents it from closing fully. Check for smooth operation of the plate by hand with the engine off.
   Tools: Screwdriver or socket set, Flashlight (Intermediate)
6. [Subaru] Inspect Wastegate Vacuum Lines
   Trace the small rubber vacuum hoses from the turbocharger to the wastegate solenoid. Look for cracks, splits, or loose connections. Ensure the tiny brass 'restrictor pill' is present inside the hose.
   Tools: Flashlight, Pliers (Intermediate)
7. [PRO TIP] [Ford] Test the Alternator Signal Circuit
   Disconnect the 3-pin connector at the alternator and the PCM. Identify the 'LI' (Load Input) wire. Check for continuity from end-to-end (< 1 ohm). Then, check for a short to power by measuring voltage on the wire with the key on (must be 0V).
   Tools: Multimeter, Vehicle Wiring Diagram (Advanced)
8. [PRO TIP] [GM Duramax] Test FICM Output Voltage
   Access the FICM test port. With the key on, place the positive multimeter lead on the correct test point (the screw closest to the passenger side on a 7-screw FICM). The voltage must be 48V. If it drops below 45V during cranking, the FICM is failing.
   Tools: Multimeter, T20 Torx driver (Advanced)
9. [PRO TIP] [Subaru] Test Wastegate Solenoid
   Disconnect the solenoid connector. Measure the resistance between the two pins; it should be 28-32 ohms. Apply 9-12V directly to the pins and listen for an audible 'click'. No click means the solenoid is seized.
   Tools: Multimeter, 9V Battery with wires (Intermediate)
10. [PRO TIP] [Acura] Test Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Voltage
    Check the TPS voltage with the key on, engine off. At closed throttle, voltage should be ~0.45-0.5V. P1244 triggers if the PCM sees a closed-throttle voltage higher than the specified threshold (e.g., > 0.8V).
    Tools: Multimeter, T-pins (Advanced)

When This Code Triggers (Freeze-Frame Conditions)

• Engine Coolant Temp: 170-220°F (Fully warmed up (closed-loop operation).)
• RPM: 700-2500 RPM ([GM/Acura] Often sets at idle. [Ford] Sets at any RPM once the charging system fault is detected.)
• Engine Load: 15-40% (Triggers under light to moderate load, rarely during heavy acceleration.)
• Vehicle Speed: 0-60 mph (Detected at idle (0 mph) for Acura/GM or during steady highway driving for Subaru/Ford.)

Related Codes

• P1246 — On Ford vehicles, P1246 ('Alternator Load Input Failed') is a sister code. P1244 ('Failed High') specifically suggests a short to power, while P1246 means the signal is missing entirely.
• P0308 — On GM Duramax and VW vehicles, P1244 is the cause, and P0308 ('Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected') is the effect. The electrical fault prevents the injector from firing, causing the misfire.
• P0244 — On Subaru and Toyota vehicles, this is the generic equivalent code for 'Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid 'A' Range/Performance'. Both point to a problem with boost control.
• P0121 — On Acura vehicles, P1244 is often a mechanical issue (carbon buildup), while P0121 points to an electrical problem with the Throttle Position Sensor itself.

Climate & Environmental Factors

• Cold Weather: Cold temperatures exacerbate GM Duramax FICM issues. A marginal internal power board that works in summer fails to produce the required 48V on a cold morning, leading to a no-start and P1244.
• Humidity and Salt: In regions with heavy road salt use, corrosion destroys the thin wires in the Ford alternator's 3-pin connector, causing the open circuit that triggers the fault.
• Heat and Age: High under-hood temperatures cause the rubber vacuum lines on turbocharged Subarus to become hard and brittle, inevitably leading to the vacuum leaks that cause this code.

How to Talk to a Mechanic About This Code

Say this: "{'Ford': "I have a P1244 code on my Ford. Before replacing the alternator, please test the 3-wire connector and the 'LI' signal wire for continuity and shorts to the PCM.", 'GM_Duramax': 'I have a P1244 and a cylinder 8 misfire code on my LLY Duramax. Please start by inspecting the FICM wiring harness for chafing near the mounting bracket, as described in TSB PIP3394F.', 'Acura': "I'm getting a P1244 code. Please start by inspecting the throttle body for carbon buildup. I'd prefer to try cleaning it and performing an idle relearn before replacing the assembly.", 'Subaru': 'My Subaru has a P1244 wastegate code. Please specifically check all the vacuum lines to the boost solenoid for cracks, and confirm the restrictor pill is still in place.'}"

This language directs the technician to the most common and cost-effective starting points, preventing them from jumping to the most expensive conclusion.

Avoid saying:

• 'My check engine light is on, can you look at it?' (Invites a costly, open-ended diagnostic process).
• 'Just fix whatever is wrong.' (Gives the shop a blank check to replace parts without approval).

Questions to ask before authorizing the repair:

• [GM Duramax] Did you find the chafed wiring? If not, what were the results of the FICM voltage test?
• [Ford] Was the alternator's signal wire shorted or open? What was the charging voltage before and after the repair?
• [Acura] How much carbon buildup was there? Is the throttle position sensor reading correctly now?
• Will you be using an OEM part, a remanufactured part, or an aftermarket part?

Where to Take It: Dealer vs Independent vs Chain

• Dealer:
  Best for: Vehicles under warranty., Complex, manufacturer-specific electrical issues like Ford's Smart Charge or GM's FICM systems.
  Downsides: Highest labor rates, often 25-40% more than independent shops., Defaults to replacing an entire assembly when a simpler fix is possible. (Typical cost: +40% vs. baseline)
• Independent Shop: A manufacturer-specialist independent shop is the best choice for most P1244 scenarios, offering a balance of expertise and value.
  Best for: Out-of-warranty vehicles where cost is a major factor., Common, well-documented issues like the GM wiring chafe or Acura throttle body cleaning., Finding a specialist who knows the platform's quirks intimately.
  Downsides: A general-purpose shop lacks the specific knowledge for P1244 and resorts to guesswork. (Typical cost: +0% vs. baseline)
• Chain Shop: AVOID for P1244 diagnosis. The complexity and manufacturer-specific nature of this code are a poor match for the chain shop business model.
  Best for: Simple, unrelated maintenance like oil changes or tires.
  Downsides: Technician skill and diagnostic equipment are highly variable., Uses low-quality aftermarket parts that don't solve communication-based codes. (Typical cost: -10% vs. baseline)

When to Walk Away From the Repair

If the estimated repair cost exceeds 40-50% of the car's private-party value, seriously consider selling or trading it in.

• Car worth $5000, fix is $2500: Borderline. The repair is 50% of the car's value. Get a second opinion before authorizing.
• Car worth $15000, fix is $1800: Fix it. The repair is only 12% of the vehicle's value.
• Car worth $3000, fix is $2200: Walk away. The repair cost is over 70% of the car's value. It is not economically sensible to proceed.

What Scan Tool You Need for This Code

Minimum: A scanner that reads manufacturer-specific live data. A simple code reader is not enough for P1244.

A $20 code reader only shows 'P1244', which is useless without knowing the manufacturer's definition. You need to see live data: charging voltage on a Ford, injector balance rates on a Duramax, or throttle position voltage on an Acura.

Budget: BlueDriver Pro or Foxwell NT301 (~$90) — Displays critical live data streams. You can graph alternator voltage and check TPS readings, which is the absolute minimum for diagnosing P1244.

Rent vs buy: You can borrow a basic code reader from auto parts stores for free, but it will not give you the live data needed for diagnosis. For a one-time, complex diagnosis, paying a shop's diagnostic fee is cheaper than buying a mid-range scanner.

How to Clear the Code After You Fix It

1. Reconnect battery if disconnected for the repair.
2. Use an OBD-II scan tool to formally clear the diagnostic trouble code.
3. Perform the manufacturer-specific drive cycle to allow readiness monitors to run.

Drive cycle (~20 minutes): A general drive cycle includes: a cold start, 2-3 minutes of idling, 10-15 minutes of mixed city/highway driving (including steady speeds around 55 mph), and several deceleration phases without using the brake.

Readiness monitors affected: Catalyst Monitor, Evaporative System Monitor, Oxygen Sensor Monitor

Before emissions retest: drive at least 50 miles to fully set monitors.

Watch out for:

• Disconnecting the battery does not guarantee the code is cleared from permanent memory.
• The code returns immediately if the underlying mechanical or electrical fault remains unfixed.
• Failure to perform a specific relearn procedure (like the Acura idle relearn) causes new symptoms or codes.

Will This Fail Emissions / State Inspection?

Yes — this code typically fails an OBD-II emissions inspection.

• California: An active Check Engine Light for code P1244 is an automatic test failure. All required readiness monitors must be 'Ready' before a test can be passed.
• New York: The NYS DMV inspection includes an OBD-II scan. An illuminated Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) due to P1244 results in an immediate failure.
• Texas: In the 17 counties requiring emissions testing, an active P1244 code causes an automatic failure.

Most Commonly Affected Vehicles

• Chevrolet / GMC Silverado 2500/3500, Sierra 2500/3500 (2004-2005) — Specifically affects models with the 6.6L LLY Duramax diesel engine due to a known wiring harness chafing issue near the FICM (TSB PIP3394F).
• Ford F-150, Focus, Explorer, Windstar (2000-2012) — Vehicles with PCM-controlled 'smart charge' systems are highly prone to this alternator communication fault.
• Acura TL, MDX, RL (2000-2010) — Models from this era with drive-by-wire throttles are susceptible to carbon buildup, leading to the insufficient closed position error.
• Subaru WRX, Forester XT, Legacy GT (2002-2014) — P1244 is defined as 'Wastegate Control Solenoid Valve Malfunction Low Input', caused by a failed solenoid or cracked vacuum lines.
• Volkswagen Touareg, Phaeton (V8/V10/W12) (2002-2010) — This code applies to VW models with more than six cylinders, specifically calling out an electrical issue with the #8 injector.
• Toyota Land Cruiser, Tacoma (Turbo Models) (1998-2007) — Indicates a 'Wastegate Valve Malfunction', pointing to an issue with boost control.

Manufacturer-Specific Notes

• GM (Duramax LLY): Service bulletin PIP3394F explicitly warns technicians NOT to replace fuel injectors for this code until the wiring harness has been thoroughly inspected for chafing at the FICM bracket.
• Ford: A cheap aftermarket alternator fails to 'speak' the right language for the PCM, causing the code even if it charges the battery perfectly. Always use an OEM or high-quality equivalent part.
• Acura / Honda: An 'idle relearn' procedure is mandatory after cleaning the throttle body: warm the engine to operating temp, then let it idle untouched for 5 minutes with all accessories off.
• Subaru: The vacuum line often contains a tiny brass 'restrictor pill' which is critical for proper operation. If this pill is lost during a hose replacement, the vehicle will not build boost.
• Volkswagen / Audi: This code is only seen on engines with 8 or more cylinders. It specifically points to an electrical 'open' in the circuit for the #8 injector.

Real Owner Stories

2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LLY Duramax) at 236K miles

Check Engine Light came on with rough idle and excessive black smoke. Codes pulled were P1244 and P0308 (Cylinder 8 Misfire).

What they tried:

1. Posted on a forum for advice.
2. Inspected the wiring harness near the Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM).

Outcome: Found that the wiring harness had rubbed through against a metal bracket, causing a short. Repaired the wiring. The codes cleared and the truck ran smoothly again.

Lesson: On an LLY Duramax, always inspect the FICM wiring harness for chafing before replacing expensive components like injectors or the FICM itself.

2010 Ford F-150 with 5.4L V8

Alternator failed and was replaced. Immediately after, the battery light was on and the truck would not start without a jump.

What they tried:

1. Replaced the alternator.
2. Considered that the battery was also bad from the alternator failure.

Outcome: The issue was caused by using a low-quality remanufactured alternator incompatible with Ford's smart charging system.

Lesson: When replacing a Ford alternator, use a high-quality OEM or equivalent part. A persistent battery light after replacement points to an incompatible part or a broken signal wire.

2006 Acura TL with 170K miles

Car had a slight hesitation while in drive and the owner suspected significant carbon buildup inside the throttle body.

What they tried:

1. Using top-tier fuel and fuel system cleaners.
2. Performing an 'Italian tune-up' (driving the car hard).

Outcome: A manual cleaning of the throttle body resolved the issue. After cleaning, an 'idle relearn' procedure restored a smooth idle.

Lesson: For Acura P1244, carbon buildup is a very common cause. Fuel additives are insufficient; a manual cleaning of the throttle body is required.

How to Prevent This Code From Triggering

• Install a protective sleeve on GM Duramax FICM harness (Once, proactively) — Adding a piece of convoluted loom around the harness where it passes the metal FICM bracket prevents the chafing that causes P1244 on LLY engines.
• Clean the throttle body on Acura/Honda vehicles (Every 50,000-75,000 miles) — Regularly removing carbon buildup prevents the throttle plate from sticking, avoiding the need for a costly throttle body replacement.
• Periodically inspect turbo vacuum lines on Subarus (Every oil change) — Catching a cracked or loose hose early costs pennies to fix and prevents a loss of power and the P1244 code.
• Ensure battery connections are clean and tight (Ford) (Every oil change) — Poor connections or corroded grounds cause erratic voltage, confusing the PCM and triggering communication codes like P1244.

Frequently Asked Questions

I replaced the alternator on my Ford, but the P1244 code and battery light are still on. What did I miss?

Many aftermarket alternators are incompatible with Ford's 'smart charge' system and trigger this code. Additionally, the fault often lies in the 'LI' signal wire between the alternator and the PCM, not the alternator itself. Test this specific wire for continuity before replacing parts again.

What is the 'ice pick test' for a Duramax?

The 'ice pick test' involves using a sharp tool to tighten the female pins inside the fuel injector's electrical connector. These pins loosen over time, causing a poor connection that triggers injector circuit codes like P1244. This simple DIY fix often resolves the issue without replacing the injector.

Can I clean my Acura's throttle body myself?

Yes, this is a straightforward DIY task requiring basic hand tools and throttle body cleaner. Spray the cleaner onto a rag—never directly into the electronics—and gently wipe away the carbon buildup. You must perform the vehicle's specific 'idle relearn' procedure afterward to restore a normal idle.

How do I perform the Acura idle relearn procedure?

Turn off all electrical loads like the A/C, radio, and lights. Start the engine and hold the idle at 3,000 RPM until the radiator fan activates or the engine reaches operating temperature. Finally, let the engine idle completely untouched for a full 5 minutes.

Why did P1244 appear on my Duramax after hitting a bump?

This is a classic symptom of the known FICM wiring harness chafing issue. The impact causes the engine to shift, making the exposed wire momentarily short against the metal bracket. Inspect the harness immediately, as this intermittent fault will soon become permanent.

What are the symptoms of a bad wastegate solenoid on a Subaru?

Common symptoms include a severe loss of power, an inability to build normal turbo boost, and surging acceleration. The Check Engine Light will illuminate, often storing P1244 or the generic equivalent P0244.

Can a bad battery cause Ford P1244?

A bad battery does not directly cause a P1244 code, which specifically flags a fault in the alternator's communication circuit. However, the failing charging system that triggers P1244 will quickly drain and destroy a healthy battery. Always test the battery after resolving a P1244 charging system fault.

Key Takeaways

• DTC P1244 is a manufacturer-specific code; you must identify your vehicle's make before buying parts, as it means an alternator fault on Fords but an injector circuit failure on GM Duramax trucks.
• On 2004-2005 GM 6.6L Duramax engines, inspect the Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) wiring harness for chafing against its metal bracket before replacing the $300+ fuel injectors.
• For Ford vehicles, test the 'LI' (Load Input) signal wire for continuity between the alternator and the PCM; a broken wire here triggers P1244 even with a brand-new alternator.
• Acura models triggering P1244 usually require a $15 DIY throttle body cleaning to remove carbon buildup, followed by a mandatory 5-minute idle relearn procedure.