OBD-II Code P0693: Fan 2 Control Circuit Low

What Does P0693 Mean?

P0693 means your car's Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects a low voltage condition in the electrical circuit for the secondary cooling fan (Fan 2). This low voltage prevents the fan from turning on. Because this fan cools the engine in traffic, at idle, or when the air conditioning is running, its failure puts the engine at immediate risk of overheating.

Technical definition: The SAE definition for P0693 is "Fan 2 Control Circuit Low". The PCM commands the secondary cooling fan to turn on but receives a voltage return below the manufacturer's expected threshold (typically below 9.0V), indicating an open circuit or a short to ground. This triggers the Check Engine Light and stores the fault code.

Can I Drive With P0693?

Yes, But With Caution. You can drive for short distances in cool weather, but do not exceed 15 minutes. The secondary fan is critical for low-speed driving and A/C function. Continuing to drive risks engine overheating, which causes catastrophic damage like a warped cylinder head or complete engine failure, turning a minor repair into a $3,000+ engine replacement. A short trip in stop-and-go traffic on a warm day pushes the engine into the red zone.

Common Causes

• Blown Fuse (Very Common) — A short in the fan motor or wiring causes the main high-amperage fuse for the fan circuit to blow. This immediately cuts off power, resulting in a definitive 0V condition detected by the PCM.
• Damaged Wiring or Corroded Connectors (Very Common) — Wires in the fan circuit fray, break, or short to ground due to heat and vibration. Connectors corrode or loosen, creating high resistance (readings above 2.0 ohms) and causing a severe voltage drop.
• Faulty Cooling Fan Relay (Common) — The relay is an electronic switch that powers the fan. It fails internally and gets stuck open, preventing battery voltage from reaching the fan motor.
• Failed Cooling Fan Control Module (Common) — Modern vehicles use a dedicated module to control fan speed. This module fails due to internal shorts or heat damage, preventing it from powering the fan or sending the correct voltage signal back to the PCM.
• Defective Cooling Fan Motor (Common) — The electric motor wears out, develops high internal resistance, or shorts internally. This draws excessive current (blowing the fuse) or simply fails to operate.
• Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (Uncommon) — If the ECT sensor fails and incorrectly reports the engine is cool, the PCM will not command the fan on. This is a common misdiagnosis where the fan circuit is fine, but the trigger is faulty.
• Low Battery Voltage / Charging System Issues (Uncommon) — A weak battery (below 12.4V at rest) or failing alternator drops overall system voltage. This causes the voltage supplied to the fan circuit to fall below the PCM's minimum threshold.
• Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (Rare) — The internal driver circuit inside the PCM responsible for controlling the fan relay burns out. Consider this only after thoroughly testing all wiring, relays, and the fan assembly.

Symptoms

• Engine Overheating — The temperature gauge climbs into the red zone (above 220°F / 104°C) when idling, in stop-and-go traffic, or on hot days. This is the most damaging symptom.
• Air Conditioning Blows Warm — The A/C blows warm air intermittently when the vehicle is stopped. The secondary fan is required to pull air across the A/C condenser for proper heat exchange.
• Check Engine Light is On — The PCM illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dashboard.
• Cooling Fan 2 Does Not Run (also visible on scanner) — The secondary cooling fan fails to turn on, even when the engine gets hot or the A/C is activated.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Tap your situation to follow the diagnostic path that matches what you're seeing on this code.

Common Fixes & Costs

• Replace Blown Fuse — Parts: $5-$25, Labor: $20-$50, ~0.2 hr book time (DIY)
• Replace Cooling Fan Relay — Parts: $15-$80, Labor: $40-$100, ~0.3 hr book time (DIY)
• Repair Wiring or Connector — Parts: $10-$50, Labor: $120-$250, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
• Replace Cooling Fan Control Module — Parts: $75-$300, Labor: $100-$250, ~1.2 hr book time (Intermediate)
• Replace Cooling Fan Assembly — Parts: $150-$600, Labor: $150-$400, ~2.2 hr book time (Professional)

DIY vs Professional

• Replace Blown Fuse — Beginner:
• Replace Cooling Fan Relay — Beginner:
• Repair Wiring or Connector — Beginner:
• Replace Cooling Fan Control Module — Beginner:
• Replace Cooling Fan Assembly — Beginner:

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide

When a used part is worth it: A used cooling fan assembly is a budget-friendly option for an older, high-mileage vehicle (>150,000 miles) when a new OEM part is prohibitively expensive.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 80000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

Donor quality checklist:

• Verify the donor vehicle was not scrapped due to engine or cooling system failure.
• Visually inspect for corrosion, especially on the control module connector and wiring.
• Match the part number exactly, as variations between model years are common.

Decision logic:

• If Vehicle is < 80K miles AND new aftermarket assembly is < $400 → Buy new for the longer warranty and assured compatibility.
• If Vehicle is > 150K miles AND on a tight budget → A used part from a reputable salvage yard is a reasonable risk.
• If Only the control module has failed and is available separately aftermarket → Buy the new aftermarket module instead of a complete used assembly.

Warranty tradeoff: Used parts typically come with a 30-90 day functional warranty, often for part exchange only. New aftermarket parts usually offer a 1-year to limited lifetime warranty, providing much better protection.

Worst-case if a used part fails: $400-$800 if the used part fails shortly after installation, requiring a second repair (repeated labor cost + another part).

What Happens If You Wait — Timeline

1. 0-1 month: Code P0693 is stored, Check Engine Light is on. A/C performance is slightly weaker during prolonged idling on hot days. No other noticeable symptoms. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $0)
2. 1-3 months: A/C performance is poor in stop-and-go traffic. The engine temperature gauge creeps above the halfway mark when idling, but cools back down once the car is moving at speed. (MPG impact: 0-2%% · Added cost: $0-$50 in wasted fuel and A/C refrigerant stress)
3. 3-6 months: A single moderate overheating event occurs (temp gauge in the red for 5-10 minutes) during a traffic jam. This causes the cylinder head to warp slightly, leading to a head gasket leak. (MPG impact: 5-10% (due to developing engine issues)% · Added cost: $1,500-$4,000 (cost to replace head gasket and resurface cylinder head))
4. 6+ months: Repeated or severe overheating events cause catastrophic damage. The cylinder head cracks, engine block warps, or extreme heat seizes pistons and bearings. The engine is a total loss. (MPG impact: N/A% · Added cost: $5,000-$10,000+ (cost for a used or remanufactured engine replacement))

Cost of Not Fixing It

• 0-1 month: Intermittent A/C failure and risk of overheating in traffic on warm days. Stress on cooling system components. (Added cost: $0)
• 1-6 months: A significant overheating event occurs, causing a warped cylinder head or blown head gasket. (Added cost: $1,500-$4,000)
• 6+ months: Catastrophic engine failure due to severe, repeated overheating, leading to piston damage or a seized engine. The engine is a total loss. (Added cost: $5,000-$10,000+)

Diagnosis Steps

1. Read the Code and Freeze Frame Data
   Use an OBD-II scanner to confirm P0693. Analyze freeze frame data to see exact engine conditions (coolant temperature, vehicle speed) when the code set. Note related codes like P0480, which point to a shared power or ground problem.
   Tools: OBD-II Scanner (Beginner)
2. Check Fuses and Relays
   Locate the fuse and relay for Fan 2 in the fuse box. Visually inspect the fuse to see if it is blown. Swap the Fan 2 relay with an identical, known-good relay (like the horn relay) to see if the fan starts working.
   Tools: Owner's Manual, Fuse Puller or Pliers (Beginner)
3. Command the Fan On with a Bi-Directional Scan Tool
   Use a bi-directional scanner to command Fan 2 on. If the fan runs, the problem is on the control side (ECT sensor, PCM). If it does not run, the fault is in the load side (relay, wiring, or fan motor).
   Tools: Bi-Directional OBD-II Scanner (Intermediate)
4. Visually Inspect the Fan Circuit
   Inspect the Fan 2 wiring harness, connectors, and fan assembly. Look for burnt wires, melted plastic on connectors, and green corrosion on terminals. Ensure the fan blades are not physically obstructed.
   Tools: Flashlight (Beginner)
5. Test for Voltage and Ground at the Fan Connector
   With the fan commanded on, disconnect the fan motor connector. Use a multimeter to check for battery voltage (12.0V-14.5V) at the power pin and a solid ground (less than 0.1V) at the ground pin. No voltage points to a bad fuse, relay, or broken wire.
   Tools: Digital Multimeter (Intermediate)
6. Test the Fan Motor Directly
   Disconnect the fan motor and use fused jumper wires to apply 12V power and ground directly from the battery. If the motor does not spin, it is dead and the assembly requires replacement. If it spins, the wiring or control system is at fault.
   Tools: Fused Jumper Wires, Vehicle Battery (Intermediate)
7. [PRO TIP] Perform a Voltage Drop Test
   If voltage is present but the fan is weak, perform a voltage drop test. Connect the positive multimeter lead to the battery positive and the negative lead to the fan connector's power pin. With the fan commanded on, the reading must be under 0.5V. Higher readings indicate high resistance in the wiring.
   Tools: Digital Multimeter (Advanced)
8. [PRO TIP] Check the Control Signal
   For variable-speed fans, the PCM sends a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal to the control module. Back-probe the signal wire. Using a multimeter set to Duty Cycle, verify the value changes as you command different speeds with a scan tool.
   Tools: Digital Multimeter (with Duty Cycle/Hz) (Advanced)
9. [ADVANCED] Test the ECT Sensor Resistance
   Disconnect the ECT sensor and measure resistance with a multimeter. Compare readings to the manufacturer's chart (typically ~2,500 Ohms at 68°F and ~300 Ohms at 176°F). Readings far outside this range indicate a faulty sensor preventing fan activation.
   Tools: Digital Multimeter, Service Manual (Advanced)

When This Code Triggers (Freeze-Frame Conditions)

• Engine Coolant Temp: 220-235°F (104-113°C) (Engine is overheating at idle or low speed.)
• Vehicle Speed: 0-15 mph (Stop-and-go traffic or idling.)
• A/C Command: On (Air conditioning is active, increasing cooling demand.)
• RPM: 650-900 (Engine is at or near idle speed.)

Related Codes

• P0694 — This is the opposite code, "Fan 2 Control Circuit High." P0693 indicates a lack of voltage (open circuit, short to ground), while P0694 indicates excess voltage (short to power).
• P0480 — This code is for "Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction." If P0480 appears with P0693, it strongly suggests a problem with a component shared by both fans, such as the main power feed, a shared ground, or the fan control module.
• P0481 — This code is "Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction," a general fault. P0693 is more specific, telling you the circuit voltage is 'low', pointing directly toward a blown fuse, broken wire, or bad ground.
• P0115 / P0118 — These codes relate to the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit. If the PCM gets an irrational signal from the ECT sensor, it will not command the fan on, triggering a secondary fan code.

Climate & Environmental Factors

• Hot Climates: Vehicles in hot regions use cooling fans more frequently and for longer durations. This accelerated use increases wear on the fan motor, control module, and relays, leading to premature failure.
• Cold Climates with Road Salt: Salt spray intrudes into the engine bay and coats electrical components. This is a primary cause of severe corrosion on wiring harnesses and connector pins, leading to high resistance and voltage drops.
• High Humidity: Constant high humidity accelerates corrosion on electrical connectors and chassis grounds, increasing the chances of a high-resistance fault in the fan control circuit.

How to Talk to a Mechanic About This Code

Say this: "I have a P0693 code for the fan 2 control circuit. I'd like to schedule a diagnostic to test the circuit. Please check the fuse, relay, and wiring for voltage drops and shorts before recommending a full fan assembly replacement."

This signals you understand the problem is electrical and not necessarily the fan motor itself. It directs the mechanic to perform a proper diagnosis instead of jumping to the most expensive conclusion.

Avoid saying:

• 'My car is overheating, can you fix it?'
• 'My check engine light is on, can you look at it?'
• 'Just replace the cooling fan.'

Questions to ask before authorizing the repair:

• Did you test the fan motor directly with a 12V source to confirm it works?
• What was the result of the voltage drop test on the power and ground sides of the circuit?
• Can you show me the corroded wire or the bad relay before I approve the repair?
• What is the warranty on the parts and labor for this specific repair?

Where to Take It: Dealer vs Independent vs Chain

• Dealer: Recommended for specific known issues (like TIPM) or if the vehicle is under warranty. Otherwise, a qualified independent shop is more cost-effective.
  Best for: Vehicles still under powertrain warranty., Complex, vehicle-specific issues like a Dodge/Ram TIPM failure or Audi/VW hidden fuse panels.
  Downsides: Highest labor rates, often 1.5-2x more than independent shops., May only offer a complete, expensive assembly replacement when a smaller part has failed. (Typical cost: +50% vs. baseline)
• Independent Shop: Best overall fit. An experienced independent technician easily diagnoses and repairs the common causes of P0693 (wiring, relay, module) for a reasonable price.
  Best for: Out-of-warranty vehicles where cost is a major factor., Shops with strong reputations for electrical diagnostics (check for ASE certifications).
  Downsides: Quality and diagnostic tool availability varies greatly. Vet shops by reading reviews and asking about their experience with electrical issues. (Typical cost: +0% vs. baseline)
• Chain Shop: AVOID for P0693 diagnosis. This code requires specific electrical diagnostic skills that are often lacking at chain shops, increasing the risk of misdiagnosis.
  Best for: Simple, unrelated maintenance like oil changes or tires.
  Downsides: Technician skill varies dramatically., High pressure to upsell leads to recommendations for unnecessary part replacements. They are less likely to perform detailed circuit testing. (Typical cost: -10% vs. baseline)

When to Walk Away From the Repair

If the estimated repair cost exceeds 40% of the car's private-party value (check Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds), seriously consider selling or trading it in instead of fixing it.

• Car worth $4000, fix is $2000: Walk away. A $2,000 repair on a $4,000 car is 50% of its value and is not a good investment.
• Car worth $12000, fix is $800: Fix it. The repair cost is well below the 40% threshold and is a reasonable investment to keep a more valuable car running.
• Car worth $2500, fix is $1500: Walk away. The repair cost is 60% of the car's value. It is almost certain that other age-related failures will occur soon.

What Scan Tool You Need for This Code

Minimum: A bi-directional scan tool that actively commands the cooling fan (Fan 2) to turn on.

A basic $20-$50 code reader only shows the P0693 code. It cannot perform the most critical diagnostic step: commanding the fan on to see if the fan motor and power circuit are working. Without this, you are just guessing.

Budget: Not available (~$None) — Bi-directional control is not typically found in scanners under $100. You need to move to the mid-range category to get this essential feature.

Mid-range: XTOOL D7 or Innova 5610 (~$350) — These tools provide full bi-directional control, allowing you to command Fan 2 on and off directly from the scanner. This is the fastest way to determine if the fault is in the control side (PCM, sensor) or the load side (wiring, relay, fan motor) of the circuit.

Professional: Autel MaxiCOM MK808S or Launch X431 (~$450-900) — Offers the same bi-directional control as mid-range tools, but with faster processors, more robust software for European vehicles, and advanced features like ECU coding and topology mapping that help diagnose complex, multi-code scenarios more efficiently.

Rent vs buy: Auto parts stores offer 'Loan-A-Tool' programs where you pay a deposit for a tool and get a full refund upon return. Check if their loaner scanners have bi-directional capabilities. If not, buying a mid-range tool is a mandatory investment for this repair.

How to Clear the Code After You Fix It

1. Use an OBD-II scan tool to clear the P0693 code.
2. Perform a complete drive cycle to allow readiness monitors to run.
3. Re-scan the vehicle to ensure the code has not returned.

Drive cycle (~30 minutes): Start with a cold engine (below 122°F). Idle for 2-3 minutes with A/C on. Drive for 10 minutes in stop-and-go traffic. Drive for 15 minutes at a steady highway speed (55-60 mph). Let the vehicle cool down completely.

Readiness monitors affected: Catalyst Monitor, Evaporative (EVAP) System Monitor, Oxygen (O2) Sensor Monitor

Before emissions retest: drive at least 100 miles to fully set monitors.

Watch out for:

• Clearing the code by disconnecting the battery resets all readiness monitors to 'incomplete', causing an automatic emissions test failure.
• The code returns immediately if the underlying electrical fault was not properly repaired.
• Not completing a full drive cycle leaves monitors 'incomplete', preventing you from passing an emissions test.

Will This Fail Emissions / State Inspection?

Yes — this code typically fails an OBD-II emissions inspection.

• California: An active Check Engine Light results in an automatic smog check failure. All required readiness monitors must be 'complete' to pass, which requires a full drive cycle after the repair.
• New York: The NYS vehicle inspection includes an OBD-II scan. An illuminated MIL for a code like P0693 is an automatic failure.
• Texas: In the 17 counties requiring emissions testing, an active P0693 code causes the vehicle to fail the inspection.

Most Commonly Affected Vehicles

• Dodge/Ram/Jeep Various (Ram 1500, Caliber, Compass, Grand Caravan) (2007-2018) — These vehicles frequently experience failures in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), which contains non-serviceable fan relays. A P0693 often points to a faulty TIPM after the fan assembly is ruled out.
• Ford Focus, Fusion, Escape (2012-2018) — Highly prone to failure of the cooling fan control module. Ford traditionally sold this only with the entire fan assembly, but aftermarket modules are now widely available to save costs.
• Chevrolet Cruze, Sonic, Traverse (2011-2017) — Often suffers from shorted wiring in the fan harness or a blown high-amperage fuse (e.g., 80A) integrated into a larger fuse block, making replacement complex.
• Audi A4, A6, A7, Q5 (2012-2018) — Commonly caused by a blown 40-amp or 50-amp fuse for Fan 2. The fuse is located in a hard-to-reach panel under the cowl at the rear of the engine bay.
• GMC Acadia, Terrain (2007-2017) — Experiences this code due to faulty fan control modules or corroded wiring connectors near the fan assembly, similar to its platform-mates (Buick Enclave, Chevy Traverse).
• Honda Accord, CR-V (2013-2018) — Triggered by a failing cooling fan relay in the under-hood fuse box or physical damage to the wiring harness leading to the fan assembly.
• Volkswagen Passat, Jetta, Golf (2006-2016) — Commonly affected by failures of the radiator fan control module. Both fans are controlled by a single module, and its failure sets codes for both fans.
• Hyundai / Kia Sonata, Optima, Santa Fe (2011-2019) — Issues with the fan control resistor or the entire fan assembly failing are frequent. Checking the resistor pack is a mandatory first step before replacing the whole fan.

Manufacturer-Specific Notes

• Dodge/Ram/Chrysler: The fan relays are integrated directly into the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) and are not separately serviceable. A failed internal relay requires repairing or replacing the entire TIPM, a known reliability issue.
• Ford: The fan control module is a very common failure point. Ford historically sold this only as part of the complete, expensive fan assembly, forcing owners to seek aftermarket modules sold separately.
• Audi/VW: The main fuses for the cooling fans are large 40A or 50A square 'J-case' fuses located in a secondary fuse panel under the windshield cowl. They are difficult to access and frequently overlooked during diagnosis.
• Chevrolet/GMC: GM has issued special coverage programs for certain vehicles due to premature fan motor wear. Extended idling wears out the fan motor rapidly, indicating a known weakness in the assembly under heavy use.

Real Owner Stories

2012 Audi A6 - The Hidden Fuse Fix

Owner ran a routine diagnostic scan and found a stored P0693 code for 'Fan 2 control circuit... short to ground'. There were no noticeable symptoms like overheating or A/C issues.

Outcome: The owner found the fuse for Fan 2 was blown. They replaced the fuse (Audi P/N: N-104-249-02, costing under $10) and cleared the code. The code did not return, resolving the issue for a fraction of the cost.

Lesson: On German vehicles like Audi, always check for hidden, high-amperage fuses in secondary fuse panels before condemning an expensive fan assembly. What appears to be a major component failure is often a simple fuse.

2011 Dodge Ram 1500 - The TIPM Nightmare

A P0693 code appeared, and the secondary cooling fan was not working. The owner was aware of the notorious TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) issues on these trucks.

Outcome: The owner had the TIPM replaced, which resolved the P0693 code and restored fan function. This is a common failure where an internal relay fails, requiring a full TIPM replacement costing $500-$1000+.

Lesson: For Dodge, Ram, and Chrysler owners from 2006-2012, a P0693 code that isn't caused by the fan or wiring is very likely a faulty TIPM. Do not waste money on other parts until you consider this model-specific failure.

Chevy Cruze - The Overlooked Wiring Harness

Owner experienced intermittent overheating in traffic and poor A/C performance, along with a P0693 code. A mechanic quoted them for a full fan assembly replacement.

Outcome: The owner repaired the damaged section of wire using a weatherproof butt connector and heat shrink tubing for about $5 in parts. They secured the harness away from the sharp edge with a zip tie. The code was cleared and did not return.

Lesson: Always perform a thorough visual inspection of the wiring harness near the fan assembly. Vibration and heat easily cause wires to rub through, creating a short circuit that is far cheaper to fix than replacing the entire fan unit.

How to Prevent This Code From Triggering

• Clean Engine Bay Electrical Connectors (Every 2 years or 30,000 miles) — Disconnecting the fan harness and control module connectors to clean them with an electronics cleaner and applying dielectric grease prevents corrosion from road salt and humidity, a primary cause of low voltage faults.
• Inspect and Secure Wiring Harnesses (During every oil change) — Visually check that the fan wiring harness is not rubbing against sharp edges. Engine vibration causes a harness to rub through its insulation over time, leading to a short circuit. Use zip ties to secure loose sections.
• Perform a Coolant Flush at Recommended Intervals (Every 3-5 years or as per owner's manual) — Clean coolant reduces the overall thermal load on the engine. This means the cooling fans do not have to run as frequently or for as long, extending the life of the fan motor, control module, and relays.
• Test Battery and Charging System Annually (Annually, especially before winter) — A weak battery or failing alternator causes low system voltage across the entire vehicle. This starves the fan circuit of the required voltage, triggering a P0693 code even if the fan components are healthy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just replace the fuse to fix P0693?

If you find a blown fuse, replace it immediately. However, fuses blow to protect the circuit from an underlying short or overloaded motor. If you do not fix the root cause, the new fuse will blow again.

Is Fan 2 the same as the A/C fan?

Yes, in most dual-fan setups, Fan 2 serves as the primary fan for the air conditioning condenser and a backup for engine cooling. This is why poor A/C performance at idle is a primary symptom of P0693.

What is the most common misdiagnosis for P0693?

The most common mistake is replacing the expensive cooling fan assembly without testing the circuit. The actual fault is usually a blown fuse, a bad relay, or a corroded wire. Always perform a full circuit diagnosis before condemning the fan motor.

My mechanic says I need a whole new fan assembly, but only the control module is bad. Is this right?

This is correct for manufacturers like Ford that integrate the module into the fan assembly and do not sell it separately. However, reputable aftermarket suppliers often sell just the module. Ask your mechanic if an aftermarket module is an option to save money.

Why is this code a 'high' severity if I can still drive?

The risk of catastrophic engine damage from overheating is extremely high. A traffic jam on a warm day quickly leads to a dangerously overheated engine. This causes warped cylinder heads or complete engine failure costing thousands to repair.

What's the difference between a 'low' circuit code like P0693 and a 'high' circuit code like P0694?

A 'low' circuit code (P0693) means the computer sees less voltage than expected, indicating an open circuit or a short to ground. A 'high' circuit code (P0694) means the computer sees excess voltage, indicating a short to power. They point to different electrical faults.

Can a bad battery cause a P0693 code?

Yes. A weak battery or failing alternator lowers the overall voltage in the vehicle's electrical system. If the voltage supplied to the fan control circuit drops below the PCM's minimum threshold (typically 9V), it triggers a P0693 code.

Key Takeaways

• P0693 indicates the secondary cooling fan circuit voltage is below 9.0V, disabling the fan and risking severe engine overheating in stop-and-go traffic.
• Always check the 40A or 50A cooling fan fuse and swap the fan relay before buying a $300 replacement fan assembly.
• Do not drive for more than 15 minutes with this code active on a warm day; an overheating event causes a $2,000 warped cylinder head.
• Use a bi-directional scanner to command Fan 2 on; if it spins, the motor is good and the fault lies in the control module, relay, or wiring.